Another 2020 Ram 5500 Flatbed Camper Build

Brad_UT

Well-known member
Took the rig out this week to Colorado and Utah. Absolutely beautiful!
IMG_0996.JPG

image0.jpeg

The "new" Centramatic balancers seem to help, but the difference isn't dramatic. Next big upgrade for the rig might be some aluminum wheels. Stazworks, DBL or Buckstop - Thoughts? Don't need beadlocks. But do need valve stems both sides.

Get out there and enjoy.
 

Brad_UT

Well-known member
Brad (aka "well know member") I just scanned your build....incredible work!! you have skills!! how is she holding up?
Thanks man! The beast is getting better all the time. I was super happy with it on the last trip to CO/UT. Now that the RV/habitat part is done, I'm kinda focused on the "dialing in" the suspension starting with the rear. I'm adding some limit straps and I'll be calling ADS in Arizona this week for some new custom remote reservoir shocks.

This weekend I put on some "ping tanks" on the rear bags. These are common on large motorhomes. They make a HUGE difference in ride quality!
IMG_1049 (002).JPG

Here's why these work: The bags themselves don't hold much air. The air volume is small. When the suspension compresses them, the pressure shoots up pretty quickly. This makes them stiffen up and the ride quality suffers. By adding a tank, there's more air volume to compress so they don't stiffen up so fast. This keeps the spring rate more constant over the travel range. Result = smoother ride.
 

Frodo of Texas

New member
Thanks man! The beast is getting better all the time. I was super happy with it on the last trip to CO/UT. Now that the RV/habitat part is done, I'm kinda focused on the "dialing in" the suspension starting with the rear. I'm adding some limit straps and I'll be calling ADS in Arizona this week for some new custom remote reservoir shocks.

This weekend I put on some "ping tanks" on the rear bags. These are common on large motorhomes. They make a HUGE difference in ride quality!
View attachment 803151

Here's why these work: The bags themselves don't hold much air. The air volume is small. When the suspension compresses them, the pressure shoots up pretty quickly. This makes them stiffen up and the ride quality suffers. By adding a tank, there's more air volume to compress so they don't stiffen up so fast. This keeps the spring rate more constant over the travel range. Result = smoother ride.
how is the flat bed tolerating off-road? stress fractures? I saw your comment about the mfrs snotty comment (my word not yours) and then the quality of their work. your drawings were precise as well. the electrical was masterful! how do you off load the spare? seriously impressive skills! I got excited going through the thread. for the record...I don't have those kind of skills...or patience.
 

LikeABoss

Observer
Took the rig out this week to Colorado and Utah. Absolutely beautiful!
View attachment 799545

View attachment 799546

The "new" Centramatic balancers seem to help, but the difference isn't dramatic. Next big upgrade for the rig might be some aluminum wheels. Stazworks, DBL or Buckstop - Thoughts? Don't need beadlocks. But do need valve stems both sides.

Get out there and enjoy.

I picked up a set of super singles from John at Stazworks a few months ago and have been running 37s on them. I just had him do a set of rear duals that I picked up today. I live a couple of hours from him. The wheels are excellent and very heavy duty. He said they were tested at 8,000 pounds and I don’t doubt it. He is very knowledgeable and walked me through all my options. I only have a few thousand miles on them but liked them enough to have a second set to run duals and will buy from him again.

fdf34eb6a9d7109f9a8bb3efea40c801.jpg
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Thanks man! The beast is getting better all the time. I was super happy with it on the last trip to CO/UT. Now that the RV/habitat part is done, I'm kinda focused on the "dialing in" the suspension starting with the rear. I'm adding some limit straps and I'll be calling ADS in Arizona this week for some new custom remote reservoir shocks.

This weekend I put on some "ping tanks" on the rear bags. These are common on large motorhomes. They make a HUGE difference in ride quality!
View attachment 803151

Here's why these work: The bags themselves don't hold much air. The air volume is small. When the suspension compresses them, the pressure shoots up pretty quickly. This makes them stiffen up and the ride quality suffers. By adding a tank, there's more air volume to compress so they don't stiffen up so fast. This keeps the spring rate more constant over the travel range. Result = smoother ride.


How is the tank mounted?
 

Brad_UT

Well-known member
how is the flat bed tolerating off-road? stress fractures? I saw your comment about the mfrs snotty comment (my word not yours) and then the quality of their work. your drawings were precise as well. the electrical was masterful! how do you off load the spare? seriously impressive skills! I got excited going through the thread. for the record...I don't have those kind of skills...or patience.
Thanks for the compliments! I have had some issues with aluminum bed. There are quite a few gusset plates that connect the frame rails that run front to back to the slats that run side to side. Alum-Line only welded one side of these triangular plates so they were weak. Cracks have started to form in some of these and I've had to fabricate bolted connecting plates to take their place. I fear this will continue to be an issue. I'll admit, the aluminum bed seemed like a good idea in the beginning, but if I were to do it again, I'd definitely build it out of steel.
IMG_1050.JPG
Getting the spare down is easy. Roll it out and let that mf'er drop. Lifting one up takes two people or alot of liquid courage.
 
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Brad_UT

Well-known member
How is the tank mounted?
I welded some flat bar to the Kelderman brackets that bolt to the frame. The flat bar extends up vertically a few inches and the tank "foot/bracket" bolts to that.

It's a 1 gal tank which makes the the ride really soft. Probably could have gotten away with a slightly smaller tank. Definitely need the 1/2" tubing though. Bigger the better there.
IMG_1054.JPG
 
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Brad_UT

Well-known member
I picked up a set of super singles from John at Stazworks a few months ago and have been running 37s on them. I just had him do a set of rear duals that I picked up today. I live a couple of hours from him. The wheels are excellent and very heavy duty. He said they were tested at 8,000 pounds and I don’t doubt it. He is very knowledgeable and walked me through all my options. I only have a few thousand miles on them but liked them enough to have a second set to run duals and will buy from him again.

fdf34eb6a9d7109f9a8bb3efea40c801.jpg
Those look sweet. I hear nothing but good things about Stazworks.

Do they have valve stems both sides? That's a must-have for me. I broke down this weekend and drilled out my steel Buckstop wheels for a second stem.
 

LikeABoss

Observer
Those look sweet. I hear nothing but good things about Stazworks.

Do they have valve stems both sides? That's a must-have for me. I broke down this weekend and drilled out my steel Buckstop wheels for a second stem.

Thanks. Ya, threaded both sides but I just have a plug on the inside for now.
 

StenchRV

Well-known member
Those look sweet. I hear nothing but good things about Stazworks.

Do they have valve stems both sides? That's a must-have for me. I broke down this weekend and drilled out my steel Buckstop wheels for a second stem.

SWEET! When we talked about this over a year ago I TRIED to have Buckstop do exactly that, no luck.

The valve extensions work ok at best, valve stems on both sides would be NICE!

CHEERS!!
 

Skinhyfish

Observer
Thanks for the compliments! I have had some issues with aluminum bed. There are quite a few gusset plates that connect the frame rails that run front to back to the slats that run side to side. Alum-Line only welded one side of these triangular plates so they were weak. Cracks have started to form in some of these and I've had to fabricate bolted connecting plates to take their place. I fear this will continue to be an issue. I'll admit, the aluminum bed seemed like a good idea in the beginning, but if I were to do it again, I'd definitely build it out of steel.
View attachment 803451
Getting the spare down is easy. Roll it out and let that mf'er drop. Lifting one up takes two people or alot of liquid courage.
Your bed an Alumaline?

I had one. Mike the salesman is the worst person I have ever worked with. Ordered a bed and custom insert like a topper when camper not in my bed.

He screwed up measurements and was fully documented in emails and final drawings. He told me after spending $15,000 to just deal with it.

Sorry about your bed cracks. Aluminum is brittle.
 

DirtWhiskey

Western Dirt Rat
Thanks for the compliments! I have had some issues with aluminum bed. There are quite a few gusset plates that connect the frame rails that run front to back to the slats that run side to side. Alum-Line only welded one side of these triangular plates so they were weak. Cracks have started to form in some of these and I've had to fabricate bolted connecting plates to take their place. I fear this will continue to be an issue. I'll admit, the aluminum bed seemed like a good idea in the beginning, but if I were to do it again, I'd definitely build it out of steel.
View attachment 803451
Getting the spare down is easy. Roll it out and let that mf'er drop. Lifting one up takes two people or alot of liquid courage.

Hi Brad, love this rig. I'm sure you've already posted this but how is the bed attached to the frame? Bolts/plates, isolating pucks, springs etc? Always trying to learn stuff. My aluminum flatbed is holding up well so far but I had extra long sills and a 12 on center cross beams as a custom add on. Also did spring mounts in the front and middle and bolts at the rear.

My primary thing with aluminum is it doesn't rot like steel does with our salty roads in No Utah. Hopefully it holds up.
 
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Frodo of Texas

New member
Thanks for the compliments! I have had some issues with aluminum bed. There are quite a few gusset plates that connect the frame rails that run front to back to the slats that run side to side. Alum-Line only welded one side of these triangular plates so they were weak. Cracks have started to form in some of these and I've had to fabricate bolted connecting plates to take their place. I fear this will continue to be an issue. I'll admit, the aluminum bed seemed like a good idea in the beginning, but if I were to do it again, I'd definitely build it out of steel.
View attachment 803451
Getting the spare down is easy. Roll it out and let that mf'er drop. Lifting one up takes two people or alot of liquid courage.
I'm 5'4" there isn't enough liquid courage...maybe a case of Red Bull to get some of those wings they keep talking about!
 

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