Any reason NOT to use a power supplying connection as a solar panel input connection?

[rayra]

Starting to mess around with a poor man's version of the Renology folding 100W panel kit.

Part of my vehicle Aux power setup includes an Aux battery that is isolated from the vehicle factory electrical systems when the key is off and a module in the cargo area that has a wide variety of power connections built into it. 12v receptacles, USB ports, low amp Andersen Power Ports (APP), a 1000W inverter, which all run from the Aux battery.

Those ports are all meant to supply power to external devices, but is there any reason they can't be used for connecting the ground-deployed panel to the Aux battery?


I intend to roof mount the panel and have it wired into the Aux setup in general use, keeping the Aux side topped off. And be able to dismount the panel adn put it on a longer lead and just plug it into a port on the Aux power module.

I also intend to use an APP connector to modify the panel kit's provided long lead battery clamps so they are removable from the long lead and the APP can just be jacked into my power module. Simila to what I've done with my handheld HAM support kit, where I used APP connectors to make the power source connections swappable.

details and background on my setup is here -
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...on-my-inputs-and-ouputs?p=2354012#post2354012
but figured I wanted to explicitly ask the question


eta the ham support kit. I have a 110VAC charging base, a 12v cig lighter charging cable and it has an APP connection so battery terminal clamps can be substituted. As well as just be jacked in via the APP connector directly, now that my vehicle power mods are in place.

eta and with the APP installed I can also just connect my 12v HAM charger directly to the panel.

 

[dwh]

I feed the output of my charge controller into a slot on the aux fuse block which then goes though a 30a fuse in the fuseblock to the fuseblock busbar which is connected to the battery.

It's called a backfeed and it's also how you feed the output from a grid-tie inverter into a house's breaker panel. NEC approved method, no worries.

 

[rayra]

Well that meshes well with how I set things up in the Aux power module, each external port is individually fused thru an aux panel which is connected / fed by the Aux battery.

I might also put an inline fuse holder on the panel output lead. That way it's fused regardless of what (or who) I connect it to. 10A controller, 5.7A rated panel, 10A would do. And it is the same ATO/ATC fuse standard as the blue sea aux fuse panel, which I'm already carrying spares for.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Yup, I use Power Poles on everything 12V that I have so that it's all interconnectable from an ARES/RACES standpoint. That way any power supply can run any radio from any battery with any solar controller I happen to grab. In fact I use Power Poles on anything low voltage DC that I have, but red/black are reserved for 12V. It's really anything 10V to 15V unless it absolutely can't tolerate the typical range a lead acid system will see. I use different colors for other circuits. So 5V (e.g. USB powered devices) get grey/black, 24V gets blue/black. I use yellow/black for solar panels just so I can look and know right away.

 

[rayra]

I haven't seen that color code schema before Dave, is that yours or is there a common standard developing?



Cut the crappy clamps off the solar panel long lead and fit an Andersen Power Port coupling to the lead. This way I can connect the sturdier clamps that are part of my Ham radio support kit to that lead. And I can just jack the solar panel lead right into the Aux Power Module setup I put in the Sub.

 

[Bear in NM]

Glad to see confirmation on back feeding as OK, as my solar controller is set up this way in my Cargo conversion. The only "issue' I had was the ability to throw one breaker to completely de-energize my entire 12 volt system.

I too am a big fan of the Anderson's. Between my solar suitcase of last year, and the new trailer, I am into my second 50 pack bag. I too install them on everything, but rather than cutting and disposing of the factory plug end on any device, I wire up both cut ends, to retain the factory plug, just in case. I even have fuse block pigtails, with a fuse holder and Power poles on each end. This lets me throw an in-line fuse pretty much anywhere, any time.

I did just run into my first issue with the plugs. I purchased a air compressor from the local auto store. It's the MV-50 which has so so reviews. Cut the cord on day one for Power Poles. I pulled it out to air up my truck airbags before camping this last weekend, and bang, dead, on its 3rd use. As I cut the power cord, not even going to try and warranty it. I know how that conversation will go............Need to go find that compressor thread for how-to's on pulling one of those apart.

Craig

 

[7echo]

"Need to go find that compressor thread for how-to's on pulling one of those apart."

This might be helpful...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/131953-bfads-superflow-mv-50-air-compressor-build.html

 

[Bear in NM]

7,

Thanks for the link. That is almost absolute insanity to rebuild/upgrade such a cheap unit, but I get it. Good winter time project.

I did get mine working. Found a youtube with disassembly. Took the electrical end off of mine, and wiggled some wires and retwisted the wire nuts, and bingo, working again. In going through the thread you linked, and looking mine over, it could definitely use a wire gauge upgrade, and maybe even the relay. Or maybe even get a big honking single throw switch, ditch the cheesy relay and dinky wires, and just try and not run it under water ;^0.

Thanks again for the link,

Craig