thehops
Observer
30 JUNE 2020 Part 1
Warning: Picture heavy post.
As indicated by my last post, I expected my cockpit to be next in the pipeline. Well, all of the remaining parts arrived today, so I got straight to work.
My vision was to have a customizable, centralized yet low profile "command center" that would incorporate my phone, an *actual" GPS (with off road maps), and my personal SOS beacon (which also has trail and topo maps). I also wanted a mounting solution for my GoPro to film trail runs. With all of these devices, I didn't want a spaghetti monster of cords, so having a hidden USB hub in the vicinity of the devices was also a must. That is the main reason why I opted to go with the mounts that I did, being that they retain a portion of the recessed top cubby. After months of planning, I put together the following:
Devices (I've owned most of these for some time now):
-Phone
-Garmin Overlander
-Garmin inReach Explorer+
-GoPro Hero 7 Black
-USB charging hub (Disclaimer: I goofed and ordered an AC input/DC output hub instead of a DC input/DC output hub. I already have a compatible replacement on the way, but I will go ahead with the how-to as proof of concept)
Also, a previously installed sPOD HD panel, which is pictured in the final wide angle shot, rounds out my "command center" devices. Install is not covered in this post. Also, I purchased a pre-made harness that allows for a 10a fused circuit piggybacked off of the 12v port.
Hardware:
-CMM grab bar 20mm ball
-67d small arms x2
-67d nano arm
-67d diamond plate
-67d amps plate
-67d GoPro mount
-67d universal phone clamp
-Bulletproof driver side dual 20mm ball mount
-Bulletproof passenger side single 20mm ball mount
Another CMM mount (A pillar 20mm ball mount) and another 67d nano arm support the sPOD HD panel.
To get started, I installed a locking case on my Garmin Overlander that adds stability and offers a bit of protection, and allows me to hard mount it to the 67d diamond plate. I also swapped out the backing on the charging cradle for my inReach.
With that bit of prep work out of the way, I placed the Bulletproof mounts to determine how much space I had to work with. I determined that I was going to use the small left side indent as an ingress point for the USB hub wiring.
Before drilling, I wanted to make sure things were clear behind the dash, so I started popping panels. This was much easier than I expected. If you are unsure, Google the how-to for the JL for a step-by-step in real time. The down and dirty though, is to start with the panel with the AC controls. It is completely held in place by clips. I started with a plastic trim tool nearest to the passenger grab bar, and worked my way across the top to the push start button. Once you have that out of place, you can work on the radio. I have the upgraded radio, but I imagine it is similar for the 7" system. There are two screws at the base of the radio to remove, that will allow you to peel off the radio surround trim, which is also held on by clips.
Once those are undone and the trim is removed, you will see four screws at the corners of the radio. Undo these, and the radio will pop loose.
Once behind the radio, I was able to see my ingress point. It appeared to be safely away from all obstructions, and was not blocked by the radio when in place.
At this point, I decided to remove the freedom panels and drop the windshield in order to give myself more room to work, and so that I could drill straight downward. I used a dremel and a small bit to drill out and gradually widen the hole until the clipped USB hub wires fit snugly through. I used a small cardboard box that one of my 67d parts came in to catch all of the plastic shavings, then I hit the top side with a shop vac. The result is fairly clean, and would be easily covered by the Mopar insert if taken back to stock.
Warning: Picture heavy post.
As indicated by my last post, I expected my cockpit to be next in the pipeline. Well, all of the remaining parts arrived today, so I got straight to work.
My vision was to have a customizable, centralized yet low profile "command center" that would incorporate my phone, an *actual" GPS (with off road maps), and my personal SOS beacon (which also has trail and topo maps). I also wanted a mounting solution for my GoPro to film trail runs. With all of these devices, I didn't want a spaghetti monster of cords, so having a hidden USB hub in the vicinity of the devices was also a must. That is the main reason why I opted to go with the mounts that I did, being that they retain a portion of the recessed top cubby. After months of planning, I put together the following:
Devices (I've owned most of these for some time now):
-Phone
-Garmin Overlander
-Garmin inReach Explorer+
-GoPro Hero 7 Black
-USB charging hub (Disclaimer: I goofed and ordered an AC input/DC output hub instead of a DC input/DC output hub. I already have a compatible replacement on the way, but I will go ahead with the how-to as proof of concept)
Also, a previously installed sPOD HD panel, which is pictured in the final wide angle shot, rounds out my "command center" devices. Install is not covered in this post. Also, I purchased a pre-made harness that allows for a 10a fused circuit piggybacked off of the 12v port.
Hardware:
-CMM grab bar 20mm ball
-67d small arms x2
-67d nano arm
-67d diamond plate
-67d amps plate
-67d GoPro mount
-67d universal phone clamp
-Bulletproof driver side dual 20mm ball mount
-Bulletproof passenger side single 20mm ball mount
Another CMM mount (A pillar 20mm ball mount) and another 67d nano arm support the sPOD HD panel.
To get started, I installed a locking case on my Garmin Overlander that adds stability and offers a bit of protection, and allows me to hard mount it to the 67d diamond plate. I also swapped out the backing on the charging cradle for my inReach.
With that bit of prep work out of the way, I placed the Bulletproof mounts to determine how much space I had to work with. I determined that I was going to use the small left side indent as an ingress point for the USB hub wiring.
Before drilling, I wanted to make sure things were clear behind the dash, so I started popping panels. This was much easier than I expected. If you are unsure, Google the how-to for the JL for a step-by-step in real time. The down and dirty though, is to start with the panel with the AC controls. It is completely held in place by clips. I started with a plastic trim tool nearest to the passenger grab bar, and worked my way across the top to the push start button. Once you have that out of place, you can work on the radio. I have the upgraded radio, but I imagine it is similar for the 7" system. There are two screws at the base of the radio to remove, that will allow you to peel off the radio surround trim, which is also held on by clips.
Once those are undone and the trim is removed, you will see four screws at the corners of the radio. Undo these, and the radio will pop loose.
Once behind the radio, I was able to see my ingress point. It appeared to be safely away from all obstructions, and was not blocked by the radio when in place.
At this point, I decided to remove the freedom panels and drop the windshield in order to give myself more room to work, and so that I could drill straight downward. I used a dremel and a small bit to drill out and gradually widen the hole until the clipped USB hub wires fit snugly through. I used a small cardboard box that one of my 67d parts came in to catch all of the plastic shavings, then I hit the top side with a shop vac. The result is fairly clean, and would be easily covered by the Mopar insert if taken back to stock.