BAD AIM 2003 Z71 Suburban

E.J. Webb

New member
The Bumper makes almost no difference on the front because the torsion bars are turned up to level the front, the upper control arms have a little more angle built in to them so when it's lifted the ball joints are still straight up and down and not at a angle or misalignment. I've had my ho off the ground more then once and travel is nice. The only thing you will notice is less down travel but more up travel. I'm also running the limiting straps so at fill drop out it doesn't pull on the shocks.
 

AlexCold

Observer
Don't forget to replace the cabin air filter if you haven't already, that will free up some air flow if it hasn't been changed.
 

Lykos

Super Trucker
Don't forget to replace the cabin air filter if you haven't already, that will free up some air flow if it hasn't been changed.
I found out after I bought a CAF that the 03~06 models don't have them. But, they show as having them when you look them up to buy online.
 

Lykos

Super Trucker
As for the cabin air filter you can get a kit to fit one into a 03-06 GMT800. I did this a few yers back but just put it on my build thread at:
Build Thread
I've read your build thread and like what you've done. It's given me some great ideas.

My brother was over last night. He's a master auto body tech and had rebuilt more GMT800s than I can count. He thinks the ac issue might be a lazy actuator door. His suggestionso is to just live with it. LoL Apparently it's a gnarly little gremlin to deal with.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
The ventilation actuators are a stone ********** to work on. The defroster redirection requires pulling most of the dash out to get to. The others aren't as bad but still hard to get to. I've got some notes and pics in my 'Hey Vortec Guys' topic.
Ran into the same thing on the cabin air filter when I did my '02 Sub and the missus chimed in to 'do mine too' ('05 Tahoe). Catalog lists, but there's no there, there.
Really hot days in SoCal in stop and go traffic I find my normally great AC to be lacking. There's a mid-model split on the GMT800s, '00-02 / '03-06. The latter have electric fans. I REALLY want those electric fans on my 02 sub. Probably going to try and get the setup out of a wrecking yard and see what it takes to get programming changed or bypass it with a switch / relay setup of some sort. Crawling along in the high desert in a black Sub I REALLY want those electric fans. But not enough for a ~$500+ aftermarket kit.
 

03tahoe

Member
As for electric fans my 2003 doesn't have one. I think the electric fans came along with hydro boost brakes by 2005.
 

Lykos

Super Trucker
As for electric fans my 2003 doesn't have one. I think the electric fans came along with hydro boost brakes by 2005.
Mine doesn't have them either. I've thought about adding a fan for the sake of my transmission cooler that comes on with the AC as well.
 

Lykos

Super Trucker
Yesterday I had the front windows tinted. I previously stated it would be with the cheaper dyed film but ot turns out it's Suntek carbon based film. They turned out great! The carbon film has a bit of a semi gloss appearance inside and supposedly blocks up to 40 percent of IR heat.
He quoted me $160 to do the remaining windows so I'll be getting that done soon as well.

The factory rear tint seems to be around 20 percent. Anyone have a suggestion as to what percentage I should have applied to the rear so as to ensure privacy but not seriously impair visibility?

The worst part about a tint job? Waiting two days to roll down your windows. 15252664211243405788500638876862.jpg
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
It's a personal thing but I won't tint front windows on any vehicle. My 02 Pathfinder had front window tint - I want to say maybe 35%? - that was put on by the previous owner and I hated it when driving at night. Thank goodness for power windows because I would sometimes have to put the passenger side window down to see, especially when backing into a tight parking spot.
 

Lykos

Super Trucker
It's a personal thing but I won't tint front windows on any vehicle. My 02 Pathfinder had front window tint - I want to say maybe 35%? - that was put on by the previous owner and I hated it when driving at night. Thank goodness for power windows because I would sometimes have to put the passenger side window down to see, especially when backing into a tight parking spot.

I totally get that. My brother's SRT8 Cherokee has ridiculously dark tint on all the windows and I hate driving it because I can't see anything.
I mean, seriously. It's so bad that I hate driving a SRT 8. Think about that...
Whether it be my POV or my road tractors I've always went with a 20% tint. It's as dark as I can stand and helps with privacy and HVAC.
 

Lykos

Super Trucker
Haven't bought squat or fixed squat on the Burb as of late. It's got some rust in the driver's quarter panel and a banged up bumper. It'll be going to the body shop next week to get all that cleaned up.
I'll post some before and after pics and cost once it's done.

What I want to post about tonight is the randomness of life. It's been a bad day. A day where you don't give a crap about anything.
I decided to drive Uber for a bit in hopes my mood might improve.
All it took was this...
IMG_20180511_232804_669.jpg

This young couple decided to escape their wedding in dramatic fashion. Among a hundred friends and family holding giant sparklers in front of Roanoke's Taubman Museum they dove in my back seat and said "drive!"

Best Uber fare ever!
I wish them the best of luck.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
That's funny and a good pic.
The dark tint is a real hindrance driving at night in the middle of nowhere when you need to back up. You'll look back and see nothing but the reflection of your headlights ahead. You need extra / brighter backup or ditch lights if you choose a darker tint.
Also helps me to have added an aftermarket entertainment unit and shoehorning a double-DIN in-dash DVD player and optional rear camera in. I still intend to do the Z-71 roof rack rear backup spots. Tie them to the factory backup lights with a relay so they go on when I put it in reverse, and maybe with a manual switch for camp use.
Been chasing my tail with a failing driver window regulator / motor / switch lately and a few other fiddly things. Still need to tidy up my trans cooler upgrade with some proper compression fitting hard-line plumbing. still need to build my rooftop solar mount hardware. Rear Liftgate LED strip lighting has crapped out / needs a better replacement. Doing a bunch of MkII / MkIII sort of stuff, so nothing really new to show.

Been plagued with some rear tire slow leakage, thought it was due to having the vehicle overloaded a few times lately, repeated inspections for nails etc. nothing turned up, until last Monday when washing the vehicle when I got a close look at the rims and valve stems and found them cracked near their bases. That or finely cut. can't tell. Given that my vehicle majorly keyed right in front of my house a year ago, may be sabotage. shrug. can't tell, could just be 3-1/2yrs on cheap rubber valve stems. Anyway I took it in and got new / metal valve stems.

But that also triggers another issue. I went with factory tire size when I bought it, needed 2 tires immediately and I hadn't done much shopping and have I meantioned I'm cheap? Anyway the tires I bought have worked fine for my needs, but a background plan has been to sell them off at soem point and upsize, probably to 285s, with the re-sale helping offset the costs. I barely drive the thing 5k mi a year, so the tread is still healthy. BUT I've been reading anecdotes online about how many chain tire stores are now refusing to repair or re-mount tires that are more than 4yrs old, with liability as the rationale (but more an excuse to force an upsale of new tires). I'll have to look up the 'born on' date codes, but it's been 3-1/2yrs since I bought them. I'm probably running out of time to sell them to someone else. A couple more months at most. And I don't really want to divert ~$600-700+ to a new set of tires right now. By the time the 'Man Holiday' sales come up, they'll be too old to re-sell around here.
I'd only gain 1/2" of ground clearance from the tire upsize. That sure ain't worth a $1000 to me.

For many years we've been buying new tires by the pair on the missus' Tahoes. Put them on front, move the last pair to the rear, keep on driving. With some occasional rotations as the miles rack up. But always the oldest / baldest pair goes when there's a need to buy new. Helps level out the costs a bit. And hers are 99.9% highway miles anyway. So I guess I'll be doing the same with the Sub as time goes by.
 
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Lykos

Super Trucker
The drive from Roanoke VA to Bluefield WV has always been a favorite of mine. Start early before the traffic builds, tune in some good music (Brandi Carlisle for me today) and a strong cup of coffee and you're in for a cruise control treat.
IMG_20180512_075325811.jpgIMG_20180512_074811549_HDR.jpgIMG_20180512_075230080_HDR.jpg

This was my first interstate trip with the Z71. It handled well, stayed cool and may or may not have topped out at 100 mph. Shhh... ?
If you're a Virginia State trooper or Bland county Deputy I assure you the previous statement is not true but rather a failed attempt at humor. A 6000 lb station wagon doing 100? No way! ?

There is a little tire wobble to deal with. The 265s are about at the end of their life cycle and the 285s in the garage are eager to get their turn. I can't wait to get that done!
Mpg at 70 mph (15.5) is about 3 mpg less than at 65 (18.5). I figured that would be the case being as I77 is a bit on the hilly side. Trans temp ran around 160 all day.
IMG_20180512_090313260.jpg
This guy is the reason for the trip.
Not the goofus in the blue shirt, that's me. But rather the guy in the cap and gown. It's taken years of hard work, long hours and dedication for him to finally have his bachelor's in Engineering Management. He and his wife are my two best friends so I had to be there to watch him march this morning. Congrats Jim!
And no, I'm not having a seizure. I'm just that ugly. ?
 

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