Ball joint flip
- Thread starter fury311
- Start date
Instead of having the Ball joint go through the upper wishbone,it is under,and only the bolts go through the wishbone. I wouldn't do one personally,strikes me a being fairly dangerous when you see the diameter of the bolts,and the thickness of the wishbone,I get visions of the bolts getting ripped through the wishbone.
I've the bumpstops taken out,gives a smoother ride after lifting,and gives a bit more down travel,but it puts the CVs at more of an angle,at full droop, leaving them more prone to breaking,but you have to have the wheel hit the ground spinning to do that
I've the bumpstops taken out,gives a smoother ride after lifting,and gives a bit more down travel,but it puts the CVs at more of an angle,at full droop, leaving them more prone to breaking,but you have to have the wheel hit the ground spinning to do that
i've seen some people putting bigger bolts when doing ball joint flip. also seems like they make the cv angle better but shorten the ball joint life.
i removed my bumpstops and it was still giving me a metal to metal sound. so i read a lot and found out that with ball joint flip you can remove bumpstops and the arm will never touch the metal.so thats a small differenc of 1/2 in that can make a big difference off roading and on road.
Toasty
Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
I've done all of the above and destroyed my IFS in the process, also without a ball joint flip I can break CVs for almost no reason. I'm not heavy on the throttle but I was running 35's and crawler gears, the last time I was taking a full lock turn on dirt and the truck flexed out in front putting on CV in a bit of a bind and POW-POW-GRINNNND! When one side blows up it shock loads the other side, this happened at less than 1mph and barely over an idle. Not worth it.
As for a ball joint flip with bump stops I have seen it done with no issues but that person was running a sway bar which limits the suspension travel. On trucks with no sway bar and a ball joint flip tie rods will break for no reason.
Any way you look at it the best is to leave it stock with a lift, the extra suspension travel is worthless. If you want lift and better ride quality get different springs and bilsteins. I say just crank it until it is 1/8" away from the upper bump stop, install 3" bodylift and put on 37" tires if you want to get nutty and not have to worry about IFS parts breaking.
As for a ball joint flip with bump stops I have seen it done with no issues but that person was running a sway bar which limits the suspension travel. On trucks with no sway bar and a ball joint flip tie rods will break for no reason.
Any way you look at it the best is to leave it stock with a lift, the extra suspension travel is worthless. If you want lift and better ride quality get different springs and bilsteins. I say just crank it until it is 1/8" away from the upper bump stop, install 3" bodylift and put on 37" tires if you want to get nutty and not have to worry about IFS parts breaking.
I've done all of the above and destroyed my IFS in the process, also without a ball joint flip I can break CVs for almost no reason. I'm not heavy on the throttle but I was running 35's and crawler gears, the last time I was taking a full lock turn on dirt and the truck flexed out in front putting on CV in a bit of a bind and POW-POW-GRINNNND! When one side blows up it shock loads the other side, this happened at less than 1mph and barely over an idle. Not worth it.
As for a ball joint flip with bump stops I have seen it done with no issues but that person was running a sway bar which limits the suspension travel. On trucks with no sway bar and a ball joint flip tie rods will break for no reason.
Any way you look at it the best is to leave it stock with a lift, the extra suspension travel is worthless. If you want lift and better ride quality get different springs and bilsteins. I say just crank it until it is 1/8" away from the upper bump stop, install 3" bodylift and put on 37" tires if you want to get nutty and not have to worry about IFS parts breaking.
the problem with my truck is that even with the bumpstops trimmed. i can still fell a good hit to the bumpstops even on road (bumps ,dips) so ill try doing the flip and removing the bumpstops and hopefully the ride wil be smoother.
Toasty
Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
You are only running 33's right? Crank your torsion bars down some, you don't need to be up that high for tires that size. Mine are barely cranked and i have 35x13.5's with absolutely no rubbing (Gen 2.5). In fact when the truck was cranked to the max it rubbed the steering gear ever so slightly.
I recommend correcting the issue without modifying the IFS, it can be done. Trust me it's better in the long run and when you do a balljoint flip you are going to need a serious amount of shims and new hardware on your UCAs to correct your camber. If you do go that route get your UCA shims at ACE in the form of washers, they have a bunch of different thicknesses to get your exact camber setting. The normal shims tend to eject when you have more than 2 and/or you have your UCA taking a beating against the metal stop.
I recommend correcting the issue without modifying the IFS, it can be done. Trust me it's better in the long run and when you do a balljoint flip you are going to need a serious amount of shims and new hardware on your UCAs to correct your camber. If you do go that route get your UCA shims at ACE in the form of washers, they have a bunch of different thicknesses to get your exact camber setting. The normal shims tend to eject when you have more than 2 and/or you have your UCA taking a beating against the metal stop.
