Bloose Build! 1982 Ford F250
- Thread starter BLOOSE
- Start date
BLOOSE
Member
Excellent taste
My plan is basically combining these three:
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When I saw your truck, it made me think of this one.
https://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1211or-stealth-prerunner-1982-ford-f250-4x4/
https://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1211or-stealth-prerunner-1982-ford-f250-4x4/
BLOOSE
Member
I love that truck!!! I have all the pictures saved haha but definitely a prerunner! I want off road performance but will compromise for hauling a camper!
However I am definitely doing a desert inspired offroad vechical rather than a heavy hauler 4x4 or indestructible rock crawler type.
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BLOOSE
Member
For the engine, I would like to perform a rebuild on the factory 400 that is in the truck. I am going keep the Holley sniper EFI system installed as well.
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BLOOSE
Member
Hey everyone! Just hanging out in the garage looking at my anti-warp bar situation and I figured I would toss an update in to my tread here!
Okay so I received my crossbar DOM tubes and dang, metal seems to have sky rocketed in cost? So the cross tubes are 1.5" x .25" wall tube, super strong. Supported by two brackets each made from 1/4" A36 mild steel.
With the bars in, I found that the raised shock mounts push the shocks too far vertical and they hit the axle during cycle, to fix this I picked up a set of prefabbed mounts from a local desert truck shop, the new lower mounts should push the shocks far enough from the axle to run them at my desired angle I am setting the shocks to 8° forward leaning.
The next thing was to start to visualize the traction bar set up to build the final mount location, the bar is going to have a large range of adjustment so I am not overly paranoid at the moment as long as I can get the pinion angle close I will tune it later. I included some concepts of the final mount design however the keen eye will see that there is a frame crossmember in the way so the concept will be redesigned but similar.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Okay so I received my crossbar DOM tubes and dang, metal seems to have sky rocketed in cost? So the cross tubes are 1.5" x .25" wall tube, super strong. Supported by two brackets each made from 1/4" A36 mild steel.
With the bars in, I found that the raised shock mounts push the shocks too far vertical and they hit the axle during cycle, to fix this I picked up a set of prefabbed mounts from a local desert truck shop, the new lower mounts should push the shocks far enough from the axle to run them at my desired angle I am setting the shocks to 8° forward leaning.
The next thing was to start to visualize the traction bar set up to build the final mount location, the bar is going to have a large range of adjustment so I am not overly paranoid at the moment as long as I can get the pinion angle close I will tune it later. I included some concepts of the final mount design however the keen eye will see that there is a frame crossmember in the way so the concept will be redesigned but similar.
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BLOOSE
Member
Thank you I appreciate that!
One day I bought a little honda CRX and I was determined that I could use 1980s tech to compete against the modern vehicles... well I haven't been successful yet but I have learned so much with that car! Made tons of mistakes as well, for this build I am trying to "think before I cut" it's hard but I feel I am on the right track!
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BLOOSE
Member
ANYWAY haha made some progress, the anti-warp is coming along nicely! I keep calling it a traction bar but it's an anti-warp bar!
I don't like my gussets so I want to do something different. Now I need to modify the cross bars under the bed to clear the spine. I am going to carry max payload so, I will do something to compensate for the loss of structure in that area. At this point I am pretty happy with everything else and will do some overlays just to add extra strength to the 1/4" mounts.
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I don't like my gussets so I want to do something different. Now I need to modify the cross bars under the bed to clear the spine. I am going to carry max payload so, I will do something to compensate for the loss of structure in that area. At this point I am pretty happy with everything else and will do some overlays just to add extra strength to the 1/4" mounts.
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BLOOSE
Member
Hey! Well I guess its been awhile and now I am in the classic forum slow build progress section.
I thought I would toss in an update.
I crashed my SxS so I am rebuilding that now which has really distracted me form the Bloose.
However I have made a bit of progress.
1. Raptor leafs installation
---- Leafs are in, de-packed on "cycle" blocks to locate shock and bump mounts.
---- pulling 13" of rear travel with the single leaf (only for Cycle) and mock-up locations for shocks.
I thought I would toss in an update.
I crashed my SxS so I am rebuilding that now which has really distracted me form the Bloose.
However I have made a bit of progress.
1. Raptor leafs installation
---- Leafs are in, de-packed on "cycle" blocks to locate shock and bump mounts.
---- pulling 13" of rear travel with the single leaf (only for Cycle) and mock-up locations for shocks.
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BLOOSE
Member
For the rear I have decided to use a 2.0 Bilstein Hydro bump stop 4" stroke.
The Bump will strike a plate off the back of the axle. The reason I am doing this is that "if" in the future I want to redo my shock/leaf set up I will be able to cut the strike plate off the axle and not change the bump mount on the frame, which will be welded and much more invasive.
The Bump will strike a plate off the back of the axle. The reason I am doing this is that "if" in the future I want to redo my shock/leaf set up I will be able to cut the strike plate off the axle and not change the bump mount on the frame, which will be welded and much more invasive.
