Thanks Albatross, yes I've seen that camper, but as a boat it's not much more than a floating barge.
Thanks for the replies guys and that pic of that girl on her boat; she and her sister did the Great Loop with that rig, a 6,000 mile trip through the ICW, rivers and Great Lakes, down to the Gulf and around Florida! This is on my bucket list!
Thanks Mark for the encouragement on the project, the boat is pretty light as I'll explain later, I also have a winch that can adjust the bunks higher to fit road conditions expected, much like a boat lift.
My 14 footer (yes I already have it) has more room than most off road box trailers, on land a tent and awning can be added and the front of the trailer can carry stuff as well.
I have the canvas already, 20'x24' rip stop PVC coated, UV treated, yes it will be a custom tent, I also have the screen material.
Any condensation shouldn't be a problem as it drips overboard parked or anchored.
The plan so far is to remove the middle seat, put a flat floor in it with side compartments and a raised front deck, storage below. A tent arrangement would then cove the entire boat or part of it, either way as needed and the tent would overlap the gunnels (sides) of the boat. A small swim ladder off the back allows you to get in and out when parked.
It will be a minimal river cruiser capable of going along the ICW or a bit off shore, not an off shore boat really, but it can attack all the lakes weather permitting.
Really have to watch the weight inside, I'll be adding amas or floats toward the stern, the back end, that gives us more stability.
The bunks on the trailer need to be wider than the 2x6s on there right now, adding 2 more 2x6s, one on each side of the existing bunks will increase the surface area to distribute the heavier load of us being in the boat while parked. Otherwise, the aluminum hull would develop creases where the narrower bunks would support the boat.
You all have seen those wire hanging self units for closets I'm sure.....thinking of using an 6 foot long and a 3 foot long 12" shelf and reversing the self to hang (hinge) at the gunnels or top of the sides. These would follow the contour of the boat better being in separate shelves on both sides. They would fold outward and the shelf supports would rest or attach to the spray rail on the outside of the boat sides against the hull. When not in use they would ride inside along the sides of the boat, in the "down and in" position they can secure other gear. On the wire shelf I'll 3M 5200 adhesive to attach corrugated plastic sheet, 10mm thick, on the top side when the shelf is deployed. This gives me a smooth table top finish so small items on the shelf don't end up at the bottom of some lake. The canvas top can extend over the shelf units giving me an interior space 82 inches wide. I would not have these shelf units (or full canvas) deployed while underway but at anchor or when parked.
The shelves can hold a camp stove, food to prep, a wash tub and light gear or eating table when deployed. It will be nice to have shelf space above and along side of the berth or bed which in the day is also a casting platform forward. That's more storage below too.
This rig is only to carry myself, my GF and our Boxer, hopping the dog can take care of business off a small 30 inch by 50 inch swim platform off the transom.
Last idea in the mill, an arch over the rear driver's position, the outside is flush with the boat and angles up at about 75 degrees to the inside as it rises up to about 4 to 5 feet high and about 30 inches wide, side to side. On the inside of the arch at the sides of the boat the inside of the arch will be about 12 to 14 inches wide viewing from the front then taper upward to 6 inches wide as it meets the roof of the arch. Viewing from the side of the boat the base of the arch will be about 2 feet wide at the base and taper up to about a foot, the the roof of the arch protrudes forward about 3 feet in length with the boat.
On each side at or near the base of the arch, that depth in width gives me room to install a marine radio, MP3, speakers, hang my Ham HT, lights and outlets. It gives me an inside console. Frame construction is out of aluminum tube, the inside and underneath can be 1/8 inch ply. I'd build the ply side first and then attach plastic boxes for the storage area of the equipment to be mounted, then use spray foam to build out from the inner skin. Cover the outside and edges with 10mm sheet plastic, then fill in the remaining gaps with more foam. The plastic can go over the plywood giving me a slick finish and the roof and ceiling can tapper to rounded edges using a stitch and glue boat building technique, more 3M 5200. Light sanding of the edges and paint. Oooops, better not forget to run the wiring inside while building! Then install my electronics.
When the tent is deployed, it goes over and outside of the arch.
There is another purpose for this arch, filled with flotation, is that it can make the boat self righting in the event of a capsize! Most motor boats are not self righting, so this is a big safety factor, keeping weight low in the bottom of the boat and secured it should bob back up right, or at the very least make righting the boat while in the water much easier.
Now, where and how to raise the ribs for the tent top, first thought is folded up under the arch and pull it forward to the bow and snap it down???
Any ideas? How would you do it?
Without gear or outboard motor, this contraption will come in under 500 pounds, under 700 with outboard and fuel. That puts me at about 1100 pounds for towing, well within the capability of my Subby Forester, GMC Terrain and won't know it's back there with the F-150.
