Brakes

[BOPOH]

Hi,

Gen2.5 began to steer right while braking, i guess it's time to replace things up front. I would like to accomplish as much as i can at one time and order everything at once. From my understanding i will need at least front rotors and pads, probably brake lines(SS?). When ordering brake lines i would like to also order extended lines for future body lift and spring spacers, i'm worried that 2" extension for the rear will not be enough - thoughts? What else should i take care of while i'm there?

Please advise what brands you recommend for below parts in a good price range:

1. Rotors
2. Pads
3. Brake Lines
4. Caliper rebuild kit
5. Brake fluid

 

[BOPOH]

Basically, what should be checked and replaced in the front suspension/brake/driveline while replacing rotors? If you have links to DIYs I would appreciate if you posted it

 

[montero98ls]

I'm curious about the brake lines too.. Pads and rotors were discussed a few pages back I think. Akebono seemed to be popular... As for what to check, in the braking department you pretty much have it covered. Maybe replace wheel bearings while your in there..I would also check all the bushings (upper and lower control arms, sway bar, shock mounts)and ball joints (upper and lower) cv condition. Tie rods,idler arm,pitman. Hmm I think that should be most of it, obviously some of this stuff has nothing to do with your problem or brakes but while i have the wheel off I always check those things.

 

[BOPOH]

rubber pieces? who needs them, mine are long gone LOL i know mine are all bad, i've been greasing them for a while dreading the moment when i have to do my brakes to replace everything. Thanks for the list of parts. I've read some time ago that bearings dont need to be pressed - is it correct?

 

[montero98ls]

Lol it isn't too bad. I was able to pop mine out with a punch and put them in with a cheap tool that lays over the race and you hammer it in. I believe there's a write up somewhere. Don't have to do them really but you're really right there.

 

[BOPOH]

does anybody know what generation of full size montero this applies to?

http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/4skh9-replace-front-left-wheel-bearing-assembly.html#re.v/328/

 

[plh]

does anybody know what generation of full size montero this applies to?

http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/4skh9-replace-front-left-wheel-bearing-assembly.html#re.v/328/

Gen 3

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Easy. If you're pulling the hubs to replace the rotors, just replace the calipers with Rock Auto rebuilt calipers and be done with that. Get new Timken bearing race and bearing sets and pack the crap out of the new bearings with the proper grease. Clean out the hubs thoroughly to get rid of the old grease. Tap out the old bearing races with a brass punch. Put the new races in the freezer before installing them, then pound them in with a bearing seal/race seat set from Harbor Freight. Install new inner bearing seals. Get a $10 socket from local auto parts store for a Chevy 3/4 ton truck for bearing adjustment and grind off four of the six points so that you're left with points at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock so you can set the bearing preload. Follow the manual procedure, but have a friend ready to press a foot hard against the socket while you're trying to hit the +100 ft-lbs necessary to seat the bearings with your breaker bar, because you will not be able to hold the socket in place while doing this. New rotors, any decent pads, rebuilt calipers and most importantly, get those bearings set according to the manual and you will be set. Also follow the bedding-in procedure for new brake pads (opinions vary; see You Tube). Oh, by the way, your idler arm is probably worn out. They always are.

John B.

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

By the way, your brake lines are attached to the frame, so you don't need extended brake lines for a body lift. Just watch the front lines where the coil of hard line passes through the bodywork at the fender to make sure it's not pulling or scraping on anything. Replacing the soft lines is routine maintenance. Again, I suggest Rock Auto as a source.

John B.

 

[TheMole]

How many race/bearings sets do you need for the front? From the diagrams I've seen it looks like 2 per corner (inner and outer).

Here's a diy for a sport that should be similar: http://msport97.proboards.com/thread/9180/replace-rotors-calipers-wheel-bearings

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Yes, each hub requires an inner and an outer bearing and race, so doing the front end means that you need four of them. If you just clean and repack the bearings that are in there, do not replace the races and do not remove them, just clean everything up before repacking the bearings and reinstalling them. And never spin a wheel bearing when the grease is removed from them, so don't use compressed air to dry them. Clean them in a coffee can with gasoline in it, use an old brush to swish the mess around, then clean them in hot water and soap (like Dawn dishwashing detergent) to remove the last traces of grease. Brake cleaner also can help accelerate the process. Dry them in paper towels and repack them promptly; store them, packed in grease, in a zip-lock bag until you're ready to put them back in the (cleaned) hub. Use the same bearing in the same race you took them out of (don't mix them up or you're not doing it right).

John B.

 

[BOPOH]

Thanks for advices, i have couple questions about the brakes part itself:

1. Are inner and outer bearing as well as races the same? Should i buy 4 of TIMKEN?
2. What is the difference between "Wheel Seal" and "Spindle Hub Seal"? on rockauto they look the same
2.a Timken only sells "Front Inner" wheel seal do i need to buy outer as well?
3. Brake hose, different brands have different descriptions: Front Inner/Outer, Front Upper/Lower, Just Front - what's needed for complete set up?

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

The inner and outer bearings/races are the same. You'll need four sets.

Wheel seals are for the inside (inner) bearings. Only the inner bearing needs a seal. You'll need two. The spindle seal is for the bearing that lives inside the steering knuckle where the front driveshaft goes through it, inboard of the wheel hub. I wouldn't replace that seal, nor would I take that apart, since the needle bearing inside the spindle is a non-reuseable part that has to be replaced once it gets removed.

There are four brake hoses up front, two on each side. If you stick with the same brand of hose, get two of their "inner" and two of their "outer" or however they are describing them, i.e., upper and lower, etc.

Hope that helps.

John B.