Budget suggestions for potential IIa

[Wander]

two more pictures.... one showing a little more of the rear and the other showing some of those flash seats and check out the glove box.

 

[Snagger]

That rear cross member looks very little like my MOD cross member. I don't recall seeing any with the PTO opening (that's normally where the trailer electrical connector is). Also, the PTO opening seems to span two different pieces, which no cross member I've seen does. Finally, it doesn't look like a box section on the ends.

You're right - I should have lloked more closely. It resembles the MoD type at a glance, but it has clearly been a patch job. It isn't even the correct depth, exposing the insides of the main rails either side of the depp box seaction under the door.

I would walk away - there's too much that hasn't been done right and that has been done as a quick cosmetic exercise for me to feel comfortable about the vehicle. Those panels are exceptionally straight, and as someone observed already, perhaps a little too perfect. I wonder what that fresh paint is hiding?

 

[Wander]

I am begining to wonder myself. As for the seller, I've had several good comments about him and he's pretty well known in the Land Rover community. He did tell me that he's not a Series expert but is more focused on specials- he's got a Disco Trek and a CT110 currently and has 3 of the 16 Disco Treks over the past few years. I will bring this up with him and see how he responds. It could be that he's not aware of the cross member not being correct. I did raise that concern when I looked at the truck but wanted to be sure so that's why I brought it up here.

 

[James86004]

The cross member is British MoD. There's nothing hokey about it - it's just unusual over there, and leads me to suspect the vehicle was part of a group taken to the US or Canada on exercise and left behind for some reason.

My MOD crossmember looks more like a plain rectangle. Anyhow, it could very well be that the crossmember was some one-off thing, or maybe someone wanted one you could put a Hi-Lift under so they designed their own custom version.

Here is what a military rear crossmember looks like:

 

[Alaska Mike]

What's your goal here? If it's a sound, safe vehicle (as much as a Series can be), I don't see anything wrong with buying something that's not "correct"- as long as your goal isn't restoration.

However, I agree that body looks awfully smooth. I don't think you'll find anyone who says that Birmabright is easy to do body work on, which might mean there is significant body putty on there. Kinda hard to find out for sure, since the usual magnet trick won't work. Also interesting that someone would go to all of that trouble to make the paint smooth yet mask so poorly. I would certainly look closely there. Might be nothing, but it doesn't hurt to check.

If the rear crossmember needed replacement, I would look even closer at the rest of the frame. Again, if it's safe and mechanically sound, no big deal. For me, as long as it was priced accordingly, I really could care less. However, I agree it requires a closer examination. Knowing what is stock and what has been replaced will be invaluable for knowing exactly what it is and what it can be.

Did he mention a price?

 

[Wander]

I'm not going to rule it out based on that but it does raise some questions that will make me look again and ask more questions. It did drive very well, ran smoothly, shifted smoothly and appeared that it was a well kept Series. That several items are missing like the heater, the defroster vents, the seats are wrong and bolted in place with no adjustment making it very hard to drive for anyone over 5 feet tall, the seat belts went with the seats so that should be considered. The prior owner did spend some money to make it look pretty, like the wing mirrors that are a cheap copy of the originals (but English) and very likely cost more than some wing mirrors that need to be restored. I can see how someone that didn't know and wanted a "new" look would paint over the cappings not aware that by doing that they have lowered the value of the vehicle as it now raises questions to any buyer that does know what they are looking for. This vehicle was taken as part of a trade for a D90 which from what I've been told was also the look he was after with the paintwork. Without a lot of time spent undoing the errors or a lot of money at a body/paint shop this series is going to sell for what it probably should so that is in my favor.

That's kind of the direction of this thread, I'm wanting to make sure I'm on track with how much it will take to get back to normal. This will be a driver/weekend fun vehicle for my wife,daughter, dog and I and I was also wanting something of a project. Just keeping up the mechanicals will be plenty of work and the process of making it right again will take some planning and wrenching which is what I want- if I can afford it to start.

The seller is not a series guy and I got a good impression from him and have heard good things about him so I don't think he was "selling" me. I also think the prior owner didn't know what he was buying when he got it and then discovered that he didn't have what he thought he did.

Speaking of testing for bondo-how do you do that with an aluminum body without randomly scraping off the paint? I didn't see any tell tale waviness anywhere or crease lines to show the edge of the bondo.

 

[Alaska Mike]

About the best you can do that is non-destructive is look for uneven panel thicknesses and do the knock-knock test.

Making that frame "right" may not be worth it, but if it's functional and solid I see no reason to change until it rusts into the ground.

To be honest, I would have likely had Rover fever so bad that I would have traded the first born. I admire your restraint. Continue along those lines and you'll get what you want.

 

[Wander]

...it ain't easy to not get caught up but I'm trying.:Wow1:

 

[Rovertrader]

Hey guys- I am the seller, and as Matt mentioned, I've had a Rover or two or three ( www.theroverbarn.com ). I have spent near zero time with this truck, and certainly do need to get under her, so to speak. However, I just returned from the neurosurgeon this am, and suffice to say, my crawling days are limitted- or just starting... Anyway, I had a nice 90 at the postoffice, and a fella aproached me, and long story short- he bought the 90, and I took the II-a as partial trade. Upon inspecting it at his place- he spent thousands 'restoring' it, and kept it in a heated garage next to his '06 RR w/ 1,200 miles on it, he informed me it hadn't even been washed in a couple years since the resto- really!! He prided himself in the paint and smoothness of the cappings. Anyway, the body appears to have zero filler, as most of the panels can be seen from the inside as well, and are just as nice, but not 'shiney' new paint. So, I saw Matt's post on here looking for a Series, and responded. I will get her up on the lift hopefully, and get some pics of the rear cross member, but she is solid, and runs litterally like a new one. I gave up years ago trying to figure why previous owners do what they do- especially in a rural farm area where function is the primary concern. And with Series trucks in general, and to some extent Defenders for that matter. As far as selling her, as I told Matt- it doesn't hurt my feelings to keep her around, but she will fare much better being driven vs. sitting. Oh, and the price, $8k +/-, fair?? I think more than fair, but in today's world, who knows??
Cheers all.

 

[Maryland 110]

For something thats 48 years old and being a vehicle that most owners along the way typically make modifications to, it looks amazingly original to me. From what you indicate your intent is to use it, not stick it in a collection as a show piece so originality shoudln't be the primary concern, but rather can you slap a plate on it and have a dependable daily or otherwise driver ? It sounds like you think so. I'm not getting the recomendations to "run away". Its your money, I wouldn't expect any rover to increase in value but this appears to be a very solid example at what from states away seems a very reasonable price. Like those above I don't think anything that was galvanized should be painted but after 48 years chances are the zinc was pretty damn thin/non existant and rather than drill out the rivets and have the cappings redipped, painting them seems to be a very common occurance. Seats gotta go- that seems to be everyones consensus. While the paint isn't original it is certainly easy on the eyes and looks to be a very good job from the pictures and will probably be more acceptable to your signifigant other than the normal faded/burned up paint.
My vote would be to go for it.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

I've been trying to figure out what the asking price was. $8G is a little high but I think totally fair. The funkiest thing I can see if it is running as well as mentioned and the frame is clean is the paint over the galvanized parts, that is funky..

Wander I'd say go for it, it looks great to me.. The last little things are little things, the rear crossmember can always be replaced if there is something wrong with it and the rest are a little nitpicky to an extent... The paint over the galvanization is a no-no though by anyone who knows their rovers and will affect resale unless you address it... It will be hardto get $8G for it unless you swap out the galvanization for clear... Hope it helps..

 

[Yorker]

It looks kind of screwy to me- I don't know if it is the painted cappings or the sunsheet on the tropical roof with no alpine windows or ?? If it does it for you though go for it!

 

[Snagger]

Hey guys- I am the seller, and as Matt mentioned, I've had a Rover or two or three ( www.theroverbarn.com ). I have spent near zero time with this truck, and certainly do need to get under her, so to speak....

And with Series trucks in general, and to some extent Defenders for that matter. As far as selling her, as I told Matt- it doesn't hurt my feelings to keep her around, but she will fare much better being driven vs. sitting. Oh, and the price, $8k +/-, fair?? I think more than fair, but in today's world, who knows??
Cheers all.

No offence intended - it's just that private sales are very much "buyer be ware", and in the UK a lot of htese things would be warning flags to experienced buyers. The US is a different market because you have different problems - probably a lot less corrosion but more difficulty in sourcing spares, and very different needs and expectations of vehicles (more of you seem to have hobby vehicles, whereas UK owners tend to need them for day-to-day commuting and family transport as well as their hobby). We are just judging from a few photos, and given the few oddities and "previous owners" capability for bizzare repairs and modifications, caution is always prudent. We also don't have the rarity of LRs over here that you do, so can easily walk away if we're not convinced and find another. That shows in the value, too - UK owners are always amazed at the prices that Series LRs and Defenders, cherished and basket-case alike, sell for over there.

 

[Dendy Jarrett]

Hey, Wander:

You can bank on the seller. I have bought several trucks from (or through) Dale and he is straight up and stand up.

I had an 88' in the past and really miss that old gal. Mine was RHD which ultimately was why I sold her (just couldn't get used to it).

My truck was a solid 8 out of 10 when I sold it, and the new owner immediately had the entire truck disassembled and completely re- restored!

I would say it is a Mid to Upper 20K truck now for sure.

If you buy this truck, Rovers North now offers a reproduction Elephant Hyde seat set that is affordable. That is what I would do. Eventually, I would try to mask the cappings and use a small soda blaster and try to remove the paint. Short of that, it looks like a great truck and I know it runs like a champ.

Hope that helps.

Dendy

 

[Alaska Mike]

I'm glad there is some feedback from a Rovertrader customer. So many Rover "dealers" have somewhat shady reputations, so it's nice to know the seller is a stand-up guy. That he is being up-front with what he knows and doesn't know about the vehicle is a good sign. I will pay more to support the "good guys".

$8K sounded a little on the high-side to me for a non-resto rig (considering the crossmember, seats, etc...), but as I told Wander, I would have likely sold my first-born if I had've driven it. I'm impulsive that way.

If it's as solid as it sounds, it's certainly a very strong candidate for someone who doesn't care so much if it has the correct number/type of rivets. Define your goals and go from there.