Build road map, what am I missing?

[jktowhere]

2015 JKU: (running 35's)

Current Mods:
4' lift (pro comp... came with the jeep) Might pull at somme point this year, but works for now so not priority to swap.
AEV Front bumper
Smittybuilt 12k winch
HID off road lights bumper, 50 LED windshield.
Cobra 75 CB
Rhino Rack / Back Bone system
Spod
ARB Compressor (single)

This rig has gotten me to tons of places over the summer so I am trying to plan ahead for next summer and long term drives. Think Alaska. I try to go in the back country here in CO as much as I can with myself, girlfriend and two dogs. My fear is I will over think things and bring to much. Roof top tent is not a option (two 50# dogs) and a m416 trailer has some appeal, but has not been needed yet. And some spots it wouldn't work. (ideal view means setting up the tent in a spot the jeep can't get, etc etc.

To do list:
AEV Rear Bumper / Hi Lift / Fuel Caddy / Work Light / Shovel / Sand Ladders (I have a version Rhino Rack made for a short time)
AEV Snorkel
AEV Or 10TH Hood. 10th seems to be cheaper around here. Reason to go with one or the other? (overheated last summer doing a trail outside Marble CO)
JCR Sliders
Sector Shaft Brace OR I see PSC has something new coming out? Ether way needed as I destroyed the shaft over summer.
AT Interior Cargo Rack (Need one that sits over the ARB 50qt for easy access and cleaner look)
ARB 50Qt and Slide
AT Tailgate table / cutting board
Propane 5lb tank (my stove can use a lot and seems smarter then a ton of those little bottles? or just keep 2-4 in storage?)
Propane Mount (inside roll bar mount or exterior JK Hardtop Mount.)
Awning of Rhino Rack
Genesis Dual Battery

To do list end of summer 2017
Skid Plates (might moved up, but need to research more)
*Not really needed so removed**--Prorock 44/60 Considering replacing front 30 with 44.
Rework the lift

J30 or Trailer (but may be overthinking that I want these, but don't need them really.)

I don't plan on drawers. I have a camp kitchen everest stove so no reason to get the slide out setup, although I am thinking of maybe making a cubby for it under the ARB fridge. I have a really nice camp table setup, while large, will be the place I cook and prep most times. I store all my kitchen items in a Pelican 1650 case, which I can put on the roof rack. I am thinking of getting a second 1650 for tent / misc items that can go on the roof too. I will also have a container for the spot next to the arb cooler and then other various storage options.

What am I missing. I don't want to overbuild this. Camping adventures are where I am using this but I will take it into some rocky spots and I'm not afraid to use it to get to a trail or camp spot well off the path. The pure crawler days are in my past and now it's overland with the goal of this jeep being a long term vehicle for as long as she will go.

Any changes, suggestions?

 

[SilicaRich]

Any reason you feel you need a 60 in the rear? Unless you plan to do an engine swap or maybe run 40" tires, I find that route relatively overkill for what you are doing.

I would at minimum consider replacing the shocks on your lift to something like OME, AEV, or Bilstein shocks. Pro Comp suspension systems often in renamed Pro Crap by most. The springs will be OK, but I would recommend just replacing the entire kit with an AEV 3.5 kit or maybe see what suspension kits OME has to offer.

Other than that, seems like you have a good idea of what you want to do.

 

[jktowhere]

AEV 3.5 is the goal and the pro rocks are for a LS Swap. with 21k on the clock I am in no rush, but will have to happen at some point.

 

[MagicMtnDan]

Replace the Pro Comp with Metal Cloak Gamechanger suspension and you'll be good to go

 

[Outside somewhere]

I had one tons and and 435hp once. All the cool kids were running them. But then again it was a buggy running 40" trep stickies and an ls1 that wasn't street legal, was a pain in the *** to tune, always needed to be checked out with a little welding here or there, blown line here, upgrades there. It was a lot of fun but a pain in the ***.

If I may ask?

Why do you need an ls and prorocks? I mean if it's because you have the bank and it's for bragging rights that's cool but you surely don't need it to go overlanding. There is a guy on here that's doing a trip across Africa in a very mildly modified JKU with the stock motor, axles etc. My neighbor in Costa Rica has an 08 JKUR with the 3.8 and almost 100k very unkind miles on it and it's held up just fine. But hey, it's your rig so go big I guess.

If it was me I'd run what you have until you find a component(s) that needs to be upgraded. Sure procomp is pretty much crap but hey, you have it so run it until you can find out what works for YOU and then upgrade. For instance you can get better shocks now that will work with a lift you want down the road thus improving your ride quality now without going with a new lift kit. Once you get to the point of working out the overlanding gear (like what works best for what environment, how many of different items you need, streamlining your gear for a long trip) to knowing how much weight you will be hauling, researching ride quality of shocks, tires etc (and this is just me) I'd get rid of the 4" lift and go with a 3-3.5" tops and just do some trimming of your pinch seams, flares and be done. A reputable 4wd shop can set up that type of lift to be able to ride well, haul all your gear and still achieve good articulation. As far as your axles - they are fine. If you are worried just truss/gusset/upgrade the shafts front/back. You could supercharge later for way cheaper than an ls swap and your axles would be good to go. Actually all of that would be a hell of a lot cheaper than pro rock's and v8 swaps and you can buy the kits in pieces or all at once depending on your budget. But hey if you have the money and want to #prorock60 then go for it. You mention you have 35's now. What gears do you run, 3.73, 4.10? If you don't go past those 35's and for overlanding I don't know why you really would, unless you want the look of bigger tires, 4.10-4.55 are fine. With the money you save from new axles you can do things like a trans cooler, oil cooler that will make your jeep happy in the long run and still have a pile of money left over for good maintenance to make your jeep last a long long time.

Also you mention roof a couple of times. Why move your weight up top if you can store it inside? Yeah you don't get the "hey look at all my **** on top of my rig" master of the expo certified overlanding universe look a lot of people strive for but you also don't draw attention to your **** either. Sometimes being the grey man pays off vs a full vehicle wrap every accessory in the book. If you are hauling people inside that's one thing but if not store your gear inside. I have a few 2950's and generally take two depending on the length of my trip. I can stack two of them next to a 50l arb and still have both the rear seats up and in place if needed with room on top of the fridge and boxes for other gear. You could delete the 60 side of your backseat and that would give you a lot of extra room unless your dogs are huge, then just pull both rear seats. And again your gear is inside and safe.

Really, it sounds like your jeep is perfectly fine the way it is. Maybe it's just me but I don't see how a snorkel and a vented hood much less a v8 and aftermarket axles would make it better to go to Alaska or anywhere else with. The options you list you already have are really nice add on's and more than a lot of people have after a couple of years of building a jeep. My .02? Just use it and have fun.

 

[Alphonse]

I'm with these guys, if you really want to go crazy you can do 300m RCV front and rear shafts on your 44's and truss gusset the front for under $4k. That's way overkill for 35's and overlanding. And heading into remote areas with anything but a stock engine scares me, even forced induction seems like a bad idea for a rig to head 300 miles from nowhere. If worse comes to worse I would want to be able to get my rig towed to a jeep dealer and fixed, not try to untangle GM vs Chrysler vs Builder parts messes.

The prorocks are heavy duty but also heavy, why add that weight and then need a swapped engine to push it. Lightweight and reliable is where I want to be.

EDIT: I thought you had a Rubicon, rereading your first post not sure you do. I would do a pro rock 44 front (or other front 44) and add some sort of rear locker if you don't have a Rubi, but stand by my other input lol

PS: how in the heck did you break your sector shaft? I've been on 37's for 4 years and not had any issues with mine. It's hard for me to imagine needing hydro assist on 35's and for overlanding use. I know the sector shaft is a weakness so I don't push my steering when it feels bound up, I back off and take a new line or pull cable from my winch. This gets me home lol. If you aren't afraid to use your winch you could do pretty much everything you outlined on a stock JK with some armor and a 3" lift.

 

[jktowhere]

outside - good points.

Regarding the LS, no reason other then fun. But you are right. The logical part behind this goes out the window and I do open a can of worms. And the money can be a big commitment. I'm not made of it. Actually another point is seeing how cheap low mile jk engines are do to people doing swaps so down the road if needed, simple fix. Before the current trip that guy is taking in Africa I watched his diesel build and how he walked away from it. So the logical thought is to go supercharger if I do anything. Not needed and I am content with how the jeep drives, but more for the fun of it. This has always been my dream car and no intention of getting rid of it for the long term view. So for sake of argument lets say supercharger one day.

Prorocks, agreed. No LS no need for these then. I have zero intention of going to 37's. For what I do I have been able to get every place and if I can't I rethink my line. Taking the LS out, what do I do with my current setup? 2015 Sahara so 30 front / 44 Rear. D44 always pop up on craigslist for cheap so would be easy to find a front. 3.73 gears I think. So yea, would have to regear and I forgot to list ARB Lockers (unless I should retrofit rubi axles under the jeep with electric lockers as out here sets pop up all the time. I will research truss and build options. Just missed out on a fully built 44 that was for sale last week doh.

As for storage, rule of thumb I try not to pack on the roof. The first camping trip over summer was crazy packed. The last, funny I felt like I was missing so much because I had more space, just better planning. my 1650 are right around the size of the case you have. Am I understanding right that two stacked next to the ARB cooler will be about the same height as the cooler? I like this idea as it allows for the rear cargo shelf. And the back seats stay up as I give that space to the dogs (50-60lbs dogs) and their hammock. I do utilize the space between seats. and I do have a cargo barrier to keep items from coming forward so I can stack against that also.

Hood/Snorkel. I am in some very very dusty spots once you get in the mountains. Truly depends on the season. The hood and snorkel serve both a functional purpose and aesthetic purpose. How I always pictured the jeep I wanted, so set on this. The upgraded trans cooler was something I thought about. That situation I needed it was crawling up a steep part in summer on a hot hot day.

This is the goal here. Not overbuild. I don't need it to be flashy. Just purpose built.

 

[PhulesAU]

If you over heated, you need to find out what the problem is. And I personally don't drive around with Propane bottle inside my vehicle.