Build Thread!! 6x8 utility trailer with Topper....camper and hauling!

mse871859949

New member
Title says it all. Camper, toyhauler, utility trailer all in one...

New here to Expedition Portal and I'm very excited this forum exists. I have been itching for a new project and finally settled on one. I have been working on project cars/trucks for the past few years, but have never done a trailer or carpentry project of this scale. I don't know jack about carpentry, finishing, framing, paints, stains, caulk, etc...I am more a mechanic. That said, I dove right in. It's not ideal out here in the Northeast...it's fricken cold and I'm doing this all in my uninsulated and unheated garage (more on this later). But if there is a will there is a way. So lets get started.

I started with a 6x8 homemade utility trailer I bought from a guy for $250. It's very heavy duty. 3,500lb axle, 215/75/r14 tires, has (6) 4"x4"s spanning the width, and unfortunately a couple odd "V" shaped braces because it was a boat trailer ...more than I need, but good to know its heavy duty! I have a long bed high-back fiberglass truck topper left over from a project truck that I am going to use for the roof, windows and hatch. Convenient! The goal is to build a camper/expedition trailer that can be quickly gutted and converted to a cargo trailer to haul an atv, plywood, a deer etc. I want to keep the utility of the trailer but also be able to take it camping.

I am not good at drawing so just try to visualize with me.
First things were brand new tires, new rims will come at the end. I pulled the sides off the trailer leaving a fairly decent 2x4 deck. Wire brushed the frame as best I could with my angle grinder and coated with black rustoleum. I used 2x8's for the sides and liquid nailed and screwed them along the frame rail creating a U shaped box. It's very sturdy.

Next, the ever important underside. I wanted this thing to be WATERPROOF. I want it to damn near float so I pulled out all the stops. I cleaned the underside and picked up some jetcoat roofing adhesive/cement. DO NOT GET THIS. It's way too thick, especially in cold temps and needs to be spread with a trowel. I used it on one of the sections between the 4x4's, but changed plans. I used liquid nails to fill every single gap on the 2x4 laid deck from the underside. When the liquid nails ran out I used roofing cement in a caulk style formula, worked great. Took about 5 tubes of the stuff but I sealed everything, and a total PITA because all this is done on my back under the trailer. Next was some 1/2" foam board insulation, cut to size, screwed and glued to the underside. Following this I bought 5 cans of Rustoleum rubberized undercoating from Wallyworld and went to town. I sprayed the entire underbelly with the undercoating.

I built a little "Dexter style" room out of 4mil plastic to enclose the trailer in my garage space and help with the heating situation. seems to have helped but it's still pretty cold since temps are down around 0. No good for painting, it takes about 10x the time for the paint to dry.

After the undercoating, I used 1/4 plywood, coated in two coats of oil-based polyurethane varnish to seal the underbelly. Cut to form they fit in like a puzzle piece. These will be installed this week with a caulk barrier and screwed into place. I wire brushed, primed and painted the axle black as well. Well this is where I am right now. I'll update this as I go, could be slow going but stay tuned if you are interested in this project!
 
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mse871859949

New member
Sorry about the pictures...I tried to upload as an image and it won't let me. I linked to my photobucket account and it won't display them in HTML either. If you click you will get a link to the image. Anyone know how to fix this?
 

link30204

Observer
Fixed some of your links for you. To post more as your project comes together, Just click the image link on photo bucket, that automatically copies the url. then paste the url into your post here and pics will link
 

Wilbah

Adventurer
This looks very interesting....I like the flexibility you seem are envisioning. I don't have the $ for a purely dedicated off road trailer/vehicle...they always have to pull double duty so to speak so very interested in how you do this.

Curious if you thought about a rotisserie for it? Would make a lot of the underside work easier.....I realize this is a little late to ask....I really like your build. :)
 
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mse871859949

New member
Thanks for fixing those pictures! I'll do it that way next time. I finished with the Polyurethane coating today since the temps are up to mid 40's and close to 55 in the garage. I should have the underside installed by Thursday and will have more picks up once it is in.

A rotisserie would be fantastic and I would love one but just can't justify something like that right now. Some other things are more pressing (in my mind at least ;) like an air compressor, sand blaster, shop vac...man you can never have enough tools huh? I considered hooking up the front to my engine hoist and tilting it way up, but then felt like that may be a bit dangerous to be working under...so I will just do the crawl under thing. Hell, it is a great upper body work out at least.

The utility factor is most important for me. I say this because I am planning to pull this thing with my 01 Jetta TDI and I no longer have a truck. Down the road I have always wanted a Bronco or Scout, but needed the "truck" to be a real truck to haul things. With a utility trailer/camper I can rid that need for a truck and get on to a new offroad toy. Fortunately, the wheels and tires are pretty beefy offering acceptable ground clearance. I always figure if needed I could buy some larger tires and get some more lift out of it as well since the deck will be kept inside the wheels.




 
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mse871859949

New member
Big day, weather warmed up a bit! Finally got all the wood in on the underside. It's not pretty right now, all the caulk and goo and foam and crap I used to seal it up needs to dry.


Layers of Acrylic + Latex weatherproof adhesive caulk in copious amounts.


Damn brain fart...forgot to cut out a whole section of plywood...must be the fumes!


Quickly measured and cut a slab out. And wouldn't you know I found a use for that thick black roofing tar. Slapped some on the inside of the board, gravity seemed to help it spread.


A little patching was needed to close up some gaps because of the "V" frame braces. I used some "Great Stuff" expanding foam insulation to seal the larger gaps. It worked well and I caulked all gaps and seams. It's ugly right now, will get cleaned up later and probably sanded and painted. But that can wait...i'm tired of being under the trailer. I think it's safe to say the trailer sufficiently sealed and won't leak into the cabin from underneath. Hell, it might float if I get in flood :).


I'm hoping a smoother underbelly will aid in aerodynamics and increase MPG's. Every little bit helps!
 
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mse871859949

New member
Got back to it after having a weekend of too much liquid encouragement. Had to enjoy the time change :). Since the underside is pretty much completed for the time being, I figure the next step is the floors. I read another build where the guy waited to do the floor until after the walls and wished he hadn't. I'll protect the floors with some cardboard once completed.

I used Oak and Birch 1/2" plywood for the floors. I picked out 4 of the best oak 2ftx4ft panels. They didn't have 6 and didn't have 1/2" oak in 2ftx2ft, so I used birch. Picked out 4, 2ftx2ft, 1/2" birch plywood planks. Got some Rustoleum Ultimate Satin Polyurethane (waterbased). I chose this product because reviews claimed it was not only $18 cheaper than other flooring polys, but the waterbased formula drys in 2 hours and doesn't require sanding between coats. I read that Gaps in the plywood are important, and I will be finishing the boards with 1 1/2" finishing screws. I will probably stain the Birch 2ftx2ft panels to add a pattern look. Had to cut them a bit to fit!

Had to notch to get it to fit, seemed better than cutting the board.

haven't decided on a pattern yet, but probably going to run the Birch down the middle.

Really like the knotty character of the Birch :) :)

This is apparently a very good product and only $32 a gallon! Other poly's are $45+. Odor is very low and goes on very smooth.
 

mse871859949

New member
I have also decided to make this camper have a pop top. More to come on the idea. Currently I am planning to use (2), 12v linear actuators, extending 20" and with 4 locking posts on the corners of the topper. Canvas will be used to fill the gap and will be detachable via snaps or zipper. A rain guard will be fashioned out of sheet aluminum... A drawing to come soon!
 

mse871859949

New member
Coating the plywood with the Poly is a little time consuming. I have to say, this rustoleum waterbased poly product is FANTASTIC. It drys quick, has zero odor, cleans up easy, just all around easy to use and does not require sanding between coats. I highly recommend this over the oilbased poly I used on the underside.

This is the layout I will use. I think the plywood looks great and total cost with Plywood, Polyurethane, $10 brush and stain came to about 2.75 a sqft.

Busted out the engraver for a little personal touch. BTW, the girlfriend named our brown lab...I am no Yankee fan!
 

mse871859949

New member
The topper I am going to be using. I am planning to engineer a system like an "EZ Lift" that is used on pickups. If I build it myself it will come in roughly 40% cheaper than buying the system. The topper will be raised 20" on all four corners.


Cleaned up the door frame area with two 2x8's. The door is 58" wide and 24" tall. I have decided on double barn doors which I will be building this weekend.
 

mse871859949

New member
Building the doors was more time consuming than I thought it would be, and I failed completely with the first set I built. I decided on double barn doors, like a shed, and will probably use a deadbolt lock similar to french doors. I had to spend considerable time on the door frame because the trailer and walls and everything I have built (total lack of skill and attention to detail) is about a 1/2" crooked. It's hardly noticeable until I tried to maintain a 1/4" gap all around with the double doors....

Note: When building barn doors, the frame of the doors are not equal. One side is about 1" inch larger than the other in width. This difference allows you to build lips that extend over the center gap between the two doors. A google search cleared this up for me. Further, I had to be sure that all measurements accounted for a 1/4" gap at the hinges, the base and in the center where the doors meet. I ended up fitting the door panels as best I could, then slightly cutting the 2x8's that I used for the door frame to fit the panels appropriately.

I finally settled on Birch 1/2" plywood for the inside door panels, stained, sanded and currently drying with a first coat of oil-based polyurethane.


(If you look closely, you can see they are different widths)


Walter White when using oil based paint!
 
Walter White when using oil based paint!
[/QUOTE]


Fantastic build thread!! Really encourages me to get on with building my trailer..... PS- The fumes are half the fun :snorkel:
 

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