Building a CJ-2A

[Metcalf]

Herm the overdrive guy is making a full float kit now. On the old jeeps the rear axle flange is the same as the front. You can use front end components to make your own full floater. The only real challenge is the axle shafts. If your on a tight budget you can have the long side cut down for the short side, then find an offset D44 long side shaft out of an old willys pickup or wagon to cut down for your long side shaft. The only other area of interest is what to do for rear 'hubs'. You can use 10 spline drive flanges from an old jeep, 27 spline flanges from a newer quatratrac cj, or any D25/27/6-bolt D30 hub. I suggest drive flanges unless you want to flat tow. 10 spline is a little weak but with under 100hp you should be ok as long as your not abusive with the throttle. I would also suggest finding a spindle you can bore big enough to allow the removal of the shaft after just removing the hub or drive flange.

Yes, you do need a D20 case for the 3.15 low kit. I think you might be able to mill/bore the existing case also.....

 

[Root Moose]

So I guess the kit that Herm is selling is basically the same configuration as the "home made" full float article at earlycj5.com?

Not that here's anything wrong with that - I have no problems with paying a few bucks more for the convenience of someone else doing the leg work and new parts.

 

[Metcalf]

yup, herms kit is just about the same. This was a very common modification back in the day.

You can also used internal style hubs off a combo of some GM and Ford parts. The downside is that the front and rear won't match unless you make a custom outer axle shaft in front.

 

[wely]

Any Updates on your CJ-2A?

 

[677 Sahara]

Any Updates on your CJ-2A?

Si!

 

[Ian]

Actually, yes. I shopped out my engine to be rebuilt, and it's done and ready to pick up:

Turns out it was actually a 1956 Champion, which is 185ci instead of 170, so I picked up a few extra HP (the data I've found says it should produce 101HP @ 4000rpm and 152ftlb of torque at 1800rpm). It's bored out to fit new pistons, rebuilt from top to bottom, and now has hardened valves for unleaded gas. Should last me a lifetime.

I also shopped out the transmission and transfer case, to a local Willys shop. I just got those back as well, rebuilt to stock specs. I think the 2A will be pretty capable in a mostly-stock form, so I'm not really looking to improve the gear ratios (it already has 5:38 axles).

I did replace all the brakes with new 11" ones, and I'm putting in a dual-chamber master cylinder this weekend. Once that's done, I'll be replacing all the brake lines, just to be safe. I also replace the worn-out front springs with 1" life Ranchos (the rear ones were Ranchos when I got it).

I'm dropping a bunch of my other modification plans for the time being, because I'd rather have it plain and running than tricked out and still in pieces. Once it runs, I can start playing with it, and add on some of the neat extra stuff as time and opportunity allow. I still have to replace all the wiring and patch up the body, and then it should be ready to go. The one significant change I am still doing at this stage is adding a DJ gas tank under the rear. It'll give me an extra 10 gallons of fuel, and not require as much frame hacking as a 15 gallon CJ tank (so I can still have a tow hitch). I've found a source for those tanks in Alabama, so I just need to pick the right model and get it ordered.

 

[Metcalf]

A stock flatty with the 3 speed and 5.38s with stockish sized tires does pretty well. I do have to say....I LOVE having a granny 4-speed. It makes things much much more fluid off road. On mine with the heavy 225 buick flywheel it will barely stall, the tires usually start to slip first.

The downside to the typical 4-speed install is that they never look as clean as stock OR they hang down way too much.

If you wanted it to look stock yet have a little extra I would think about the 3.15 low gear set for the D18. Its not as good as a 6 or 7:1 1st gear 4 speed, but everything would look and function basically like stock.

Adding the Saturn overdrive can also be nice if you have to do more than about 45-50mph for any extended amount of time. The overdrive also turns the 3.15 t-case gears into basically stock 2.4ish gears which can be handy.....

 

[wely]

Lookin Good!

Your makin good progress. Can't wait to see it completed!