bumper and hitch loads and breaking points

[skunkriver]

I have noticed that all these jeep bumper makers never seem to state the load cap. or hitch rating on there products. I would like to hear from people who have stronger ways to mount these bumpers/hitches and also have you ever overloaded them and broke them ( any photos ) ? Where did they break at and at how much load ?

 

[wikid]

If they posted the load capacity/rating, they would have to go through extensive testing and certification. They probably even have a disclaimer, stating they are not rated for towing and load. Usually the big manufacturers, are the ones that can afford to do that.

 

[ExpoMike]

I agree, I think to get a certified rating they have to go thru some Federal Safety testing which cost money. It's cheaper for them to not rate them and call them "recovery" points as I have seen them called. This way, if you tow anything with them and it fails, they can't be held responable since the end user misused it by towing with it.

Like so many things, it always comes down to money.

 

[skunkriver]

Maybe I should have left that comment out ( about they never rate there stuff ) I understand the why, I'm trying to get input on real world use and pros and cons of mounting methods and data on breaking points, a downward angle of a following trailer compounded with a fully loaded tire carrier and fuel cans and hi-lift can and up to alot of weight on bumper mounting points. I'm hpoing to hear stories of where and how the breaks happened

 

[blueeyeddevil]

You could just get the material specs from the prospective manufacturer. Cross reference the shearing capacity of the material,bolts and what type of welding process ( MIG or TIG and wire/filler rod) used to weld the product.
From that info you should be able to ballpark what kind of stress you can impose on it.

 

[RedDog]

Good points. I have a Warn Rock Crawler front bumper with a Powerplant and considered the rear one to replace the stock bumper and Draw-Tite hitch, but the Warn's "not rated" for towing. That's a deal breaker.

So far the Draw-Tite mounts my bike hauler but I always have thoughts of a small pop-up trailer. I'm certainly not going to a bumper I can't tow one with when mounted to the same frame the Draw-Tite and stock bumper is. Frankly, I think Warn is a large enough corporation to get the required certification. Until they do - no sale. The real irony is that their own winch on their own front bumper mounted to the frame of the same Jeep stands to experience far more strain than the rear version would realize with a lightweight tent trailer.

 

[UK4X4]

I had a non rated tow hitch bumper on my old TJ, the actual mount plates bent on mine (the bumper not the ones on the jeep)

I had to persuade them back into place with a sledge hammer

and then welded on some supports top and bottom to "box" the support plate

Worked fine after that with our small trailer

 

[skunkriver]

how much load ?

how much did it take to break it ?

 

[gpndave]

You want to look for a bumper that is mounted better than just the stock bumper locations. Why? Because you are going to use it for towing, extraction, and heavier loads (spare, rack, etc). Notice a few items on this example. The clevis mounts are butt welded through the back of the bumper, not just around the face. The hinge is critical and this one is fully boxed. Some are riding on a single pin and I have seen those fail over time as the leverage and movement against a single bottom mounting point is too much for even a hardened shaft. Look close just to the left of the shock absorber. See the bolt head? This bumper has additional supports that run about 8 inches up each side of the frame and catch an additional mounting point.

I have taken many photos over the years at various Jeep events of how different bumpers are mounted. There is a big difference in mounting and quality. It pays to do your homework.


This example is from custom4x4fabrication.com