Buying & Building a Medium Ambulance into an RV – The FAM-BULANCE

LowTech

Dirt Track Traveler
What exactly do you need in an under-body condenser? I have access to a under-body set up on a short school bus. Would any of those parts work for your set up?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Thanks for the offer, but I think I'm OK.

I know that a Hoseline BMC1006 bottom mount condenser will work, so that's what I have been looking for. Since it's used on both the normal engine driven air conditioning systems and the dual voltage systems, it's common to most of the ambulances with Hoseline equipment. I can track one down here in St Paul from one of the ambulance dealers very easily.

BMC1006 Condenser.JPG

If it was an odd-ball that was unique to the dual voltage system, I'd have to look a lot longer. I've been searching for the unique parts for the dual voltage system, and I've found all that I need to start the installation as soon as the winter glaciers retreat.

By the way, I see that you have a radio box shelter. Which one? When I sold mine in 2014, I had duplicate manuals floating around the garage, plus some leftovers. Let me know if you're looking for anything, and I'll see what I have left.
 

LowTech

Dirt Track Traveler
It's an S448, just a bit smaller than the S280. At this point it's empty of anything that came in it and I'm building it out as a "live-in" space. The only thing that I can think of that I might need is more of the "thumb screws" that hold the vent hatches closed, other than that it's all going to be custom built. :)

DirtTrackTravelers.com
 

bobrenz

Observer
You're probably better off doing a total build on your shelter versus trying to adapt it as a MIL shelter since many of the interior parts were made to the Army's design and were not available from any supplier. Shelter light fixtures were one example. I nearly made fluorescent fixtures from scrstch before I came to my senses and just installed LED fixtures from Superbright LEDs.

I don't have any vent latches in my leftovers -- sorry.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
There's an old saying -- "Some days, you eat the bear, and other days, the bear eats you..."

Today, I had a bear-burger.

I regularly prowl through ebay looking for Hoseline ambulance air conditioning components, and last week, I saw a listing for a "Hoseline Environmental Cabinet". An environmental cabinet isn't a refrigerator - it is a storage cabinet designed to hold a fixed internal temperature, regardless of if it has to cool or heat to handle the job. In an ambulance, it would be used to store drugs at a constant temperature.

Since it is designed to store drugs, it is kinda small if you're looking for a refrigerator, plus, it only can be set down to 34F, and it doesn't have a freezer. And since it's designed for ambulance applications, the little bugger sells for $1650.

I saw that the opening bid was only $25, so I entered $25, and a few days later, it was mine (plus $35 shipping).

I'm not too sure what I'm going to do with it - keep it, trade it, other? I think for now, it will go into the shop as a refrigerator since I already have an Isotherm marine refrigerator for the buggy. I may change my mind, but that's today's plan.

DSCN5181.jpg DSCN5184.jpg

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patoz

Expedition Leader
And if Bob hadn't of bought it, I would have!

It's not really what I need for my ambo/camper, but it was a good deal! :agree:
 

bobrenz

Observer
Before I decided to bid on it, I had passed info on the listing to my ambulance-electrician friends. Apparently none of them decided to bid.

You snooze, you loose....
 

rlrenz

Explorer
The Tale of a Startup--

I plugged the environmental cabinet in to a 115 line yesterday. I had a small indicator light, so it had power.

TOTALLY DEAD!

I was checking fuses, when I took a closer look at the Hoseline control panel. It had an ON and an OFF button…..

I pressed the ON button. LIFE happened! I pressed the SET button, and set it for 38F. The SET indicator went out, and the display showed the actual temperature. In about 15 minutes, it was at 38F (+/- 2F, as per their poop sheet).

Amazing things, those ON/OFF switches...

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patoz

Expedition Leader
:26_7_2: I know it's rated for a minimum of 35°, but I'm curious to see just how low it will actually go.
 

bobrenz

Observer
I've had it to 35F- that's the minimum set point. I'm goingbto try it with a load -- Gatorade, or similar. I'm goingbto ask Hoseline how to calibrate it, and that should let me go colder. I don't want to build a glacier on the coil, though.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Is it 110 only or dual voltage?

What MFG compressor does it have?

Responding backward -

I was a little surprised - I was expecting the marine-standard Danfoss compressor, but the label on the compressor says "SAWAFUJI Model SK-511N". It uses R134A refrigerant.

It's dual voltage - It runs on both 115 volts AC and on 12 volts DC. It will run on 115 volts if 115 is available, if 115 isn't available, it will run on 12 volts, but if the battery voltage drops below about 11.6 volts, the unit will shut down. The unit has a small 115/12 volt regulated power supply on top - the power supply has a standard computer cord inlet, so it may be possible to run on 230 volts with only a power cord change, but I don't know this as a fact.

The power supply is the black rectangle on top of the unit - the longer rectangle is the normal Norcold control module for the unit when it is a refrigerator.

DSCN5183.jpg
 

LukeH

Adventurer
Responding backward -

I was a little surprised - I was expecting the marine-standard Danfoss compressor, but the label on the compressor says "SAWAFUJI Model SK-511N". It uses R134A refrigerant.

It's dual voltage - It runs on both 115 volts AC and on 12 volts DC. It will run on 115 volts if 115 is available, if 115 isn't available, it will run on 12 volts, but if the battery voltage drops below about 11.6 volts, the unit will shut down. The unit has a small 115/12 volt regulated power supply on top - the power supply has a standard computer cord inlet, so it may be possible to run on 230 volts with only a power cord change, but I don't know this as a fact.

The power supply is the black rectangle on top of the unit - the longer rectangle is the normal Norcold control module for the unit when it is a refrigerator.

View attachment 330438

Agree with you. I reckon if you lift the black power supply box the label on the underside will say 110 - 240v . Very susrprised at how lightweight the mains power supply is. On the same label it'll give a current output. If that is lower than the 12V input requirements I would worry. The power supply will fail prematurely. Fortunately it's accessible and easily swapped for a bigger one.

Now I'm off to google for your unit over here :)
 

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