C5500 TopKick 4x4 Crew Cab Build

NeverEnough

Adventurer
NEED UPDATE!!!........................... Please?

Sorry, didn't realize I was creating anxiety out there! I wish I had more post, but the year started out a little crazy (oldest son had to get his ACL reconstructed, year-end close at work, and crazy CES in Vegas). Interior finish work is moving along. Based on the experience I've built up thus far with working with honeycomb panels, I suspected the cabinets would require a fair bit of invention. But I'm pleased with the progress.

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Ken and Roger from Park City Woodworks have gone the extra mile to get things right, and have been willing particpants in the problem solving required when working with new materials.

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For example, installing the Southco locking cabinet pulls is a game of millimeters. After doing several tests, Ken figured out the perfect mounting position for smooth action and bomber hold. Here's the pull in the locked position:

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A simple push on the center and the pull pops out and the catch is unlocked. They're not inexpensive little units, and it's cooll functionality, but they're plastic. I tried to punish the samples months ago and they took a beating, but I'm curious to see how they do over the long haul.

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Girard is busy getting all ceiling paneling, wall paneling, and mouldings installed. I've never seen anybody match his ability to cut materials to such tight tolerances- and he still has all his fingers.

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Once the wall tongue and groove paneling goes in, the windows can be installed (HEHR).

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The floors are also being prepared for the carbon electric heat film (Warm-up). Step one is glueing down the Aerogel insulation with 3M spray adhesive. That will get covered with a heavy-duty reflective vapor barrier. After that we'll install the heating elements, then a 6mil vapor barrier, then the vinyl plank flooring.

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Sorry the pics aren't very exciting. I haven't had much time to lend a hand at the shop, and when I'm there it's like watching a submarine movie- three to four guys working around each other in tight quarters. My strategy (for no particular reason), has been to do the finish work from the rear to the front of the camper. So the big slide-out room and the galley/great room are pretty much wrapped except for the flooring. The bathroom is close and I haven't even started on the cabover. My hope is to post some nice pics of the interior this week so everyone can see how it looks. I've got all the components in-house except for the brush seals and three-stage table pedestals (Springfield Marine). And I still have to do the personnel and compartment doors. I'd love to get another talented craftsman on the job for the next few weeks, so if anybody knows somebody looking for work that has skills, PM me.
 

NeverEnough

Adventurer
A little more detail on the interior floors....

The Aerogel is covered up with a reflective vapor barrier.

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Then the carbon electric heating elements are put down.

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Before covering it with 6 mil vapor barrier, it's important to verify the resistance numbers for each element with multi-meter to make sure nothing got honked during installation. Everything checked out perfect, so down went the plastic.

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The final step is installing the Alure vinyl plank flooring. Fortunately, with a family of my size, there seems to be someone skilled in just about every discipline. In this case, Chris, my niece's husband, does his handiwork. He's a professional wood, stone, and tile craftsman and makes installing this stuff look effortless. He'll finish it all up tomorrow, but it's looking great.

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Take note of how he's bathed in brilliant light. I've ordered some LED dimmers so I can tone down the almost nuclear blast coming from my plethora of ceiling pucks!
 

Every Miles A Memory

Expedition Leader
Take note of how he's bathed in brilliant light. I've ordered some LED dimmers so I can tone down the almost nuclear blast coming from my plethora of ceiling pucks!

HAHAHA!! I noted that right away and remember commenting back when you first put in all the lights that the place looked like an operating room! Probably the brightest place he's ever worked :)

The dimmers will be the cats meow!
 

Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
I was thinking about that as well.

Do you plan to set it so that they will not all be switched on the same switch? My brother in law has a theater room with two dimmers, half of the lights on one the others on the other. It is nice to be able to set the precise amount of light desired, were as all of the lights on it gets hard to get it just right.

Well, beautiful as always.
Brian
 

NeverEnough

Adventurer
I was thinking about that as well.

Do you plan to set it so that they will not all be switched on the same switch?

Lighting is controlled with individual switches for the following:

1) driver's side "small" slide ceiling lights
2) passenger side "small" slide ceiling lights
3) large slide ceiling lights (dimmer)
4) large slide accent lights
5) main galley/dining ceiling lights (dimmer)
6) galley under counter
7) corridor/stairwell ceiling lights
8) stairwell understep lights (pressure switch with entry door)
9) bathroom celing lights
10) bathroom vanity mirror
11) cabover room ceiling lights
12) roof deck lights
13 ) rear exterior flood lights
14) passenger side exterior flood lights
15 )driver side exterior flood lights
16) passenger side cargo bay lights (pressure switched, key fob/key pad activated with hatch locks)
17) driver side cargo bay lights (pressure switched, key fob/key pad activated with hatch locks)

More than you asked for, but faster to just cut and paste from my switch list. Early on I was looking into a fully-multiplexed system, but I'm glad I stuck with simple switches. I got the dimmers in today and did a quick test. Standard dimmers don't work on LEDs due to the extremely low voltage required for illumination, so I had to get some pulse modulation units:

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These allow for a very fine tuning at low voltage. Unfortunately, they're butt-ugly, so I'm trying to figure out how to bury them in the wall and come up with a decent knob. The the auto iris on my phone's camera doesn't really provide a good picture of the functionality, but here's low:

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And turned all the way up:

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They actually provide a far better range than I anticipated, allowing a complete range of mood lighting: spooky, romantic, boring, and hydrogen bomb blast.
 

thetonka

Observer
I love that lighting. I want to upgrade the AC flourescents in my hauler to DC LEDs like you have.

SO COOL!!!
 
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Forum Ninja

Big lurker, small poster
Wow. Just wow.

I can usually pick fault in anyones workmanship (I'm a structural engineer, so comes with the teritory), but that looks faultless and so well thought out.

You must be stoked to see it all come together! I'll be keeping an excited eye on this thread :bowdown:
 

Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
Nice, thanks...

Why not just paint the switch plate white and leave it as it is? Or just put the plate behind the wall and with only the knob sticking out. Glad you were able to get something good for the job.

The spooky will be nice for movie nights!

(I, of course (rightly), assume you will have a screen and projector in there someplace for movie nights!)
 

Riptide

Explorer
The lighting looks great! Where did you source your components?

I want to replace the halogen pucks in my rig with LED drop-ins, but didn't know about the dimming capability.

Are you happy with the "color" of the lighting? I want something on the "warm" side, similar to the halogen light. Looking at your pictures, the light looks great.

I'll have to go back and read up on your earlier posts. Must have missed that before.

Thanks!
 

thetonka

Observer
I looked and did not see where you stated you got the lights from.

Mind posting again?
 
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matthewp

Combat Truck Monkey
I would also like to know more info (IE: where can I find them) those cabinet knobs. Very cool build!
 

NeverEnough

Adventurer
The lighting looks great! Where did you source your components?

I want to replace the halogen pucks in my rig with LED drop-ins, but didn't know about the dimming capability.

Are you happy with the "color" of the lighting? I want something on the "warm" side, similar to the halogen light. Looking at your pictures, the light looks great.

I'll have to go back and read up on your earlier posts. Must have missed that before.

Thanks!

The pucks, undercounter, dimmers and strip LEDs (used for accent lighting) all came from www.superbrightleds.com They have a large selection, decent pricing, and quick service. I evaluated several other pucks, most at twice the cost, but I'm happy with my ultimate selection.

The exterior floods are very pricey units from www.drled.com The unit is called "Kevin". I haven't really found anything else quite like it, and they're pretty much indestructible.

matthewp said:
I would also like to know more info (IE: where can I find them) those cabinet knobs. Very cool build!

They are Southco M1-2A "push to close" latches. They have three different versions with slightly different functionality. You can find the details on Southco's website. Most marine hardware suppliers can get them for you.

Ninja said:
Wow. Just wow.

I can usually pick fault in anyones workmanship (I'm a structural engineer, so comes with the teritory), but that looks faultless and so well thought out.

Thanks, Ninja, and thanks to everybody else for the continued moral support. I can't tell you how many times I've wished I was a structural engineer this past year! And there are plenty of faults- and I'm sure there are many more that will be revealed once I get it out on the road.


I don't have time to post more photos tonight, but I'm really trying to get this project wrapped up. The radiant floor heating has been tested with excellent results, and the "fold-down" wall for the cabover pop-up got installed today, along with steady progress on interior finish details (which seem to never end.....).
 

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