Cabover HMMWV Expedition Truck Project

zioxkoa

Member
I've been working on this project on and off for almost two years now, so I figured it was about time for a build thread.

Introduction
Why a HMMWV (Humvee/Hummer H1/etc)? Lots of reasons, some more personal preference than others, but in no particular order:
  • portal/CTIS hubs
  • independent front and rear suspension
  • 70mph capable
  • 15.5k lbs GWVR variants
  • low COG
  • high clearance (~16" to diff stock)
  • readily available (for US citizens)
  • AWD with locking 4x4
  • front and rear Torsen diffs
  • fully boxed frame rails
The goal here is to have a 4 season habitat with enough luxury for two adults and a dog, while keeping the entire build under 10k lbs. With a curb weight of 6200 I think it's possible. I originally was looking at LMTV/Steyr 12M18 platforms but they're so big and heavy I wouldn't be able to go most places I already could in a 2wd van (not to mention a max speed around 55mph). Stepping down from those to medium duty truck platforms was reasonable, however still bigger and heavier than I was wanting. The Fuso 4x4 and some Unimogs fit the bill, but the prices for those have skyrocketed in the US and still didn't check all the boxes. Enter the HMMWV. After talking with a friend for months about this idea we decided it was worth a shot. I threw together some rough layout sketches to make sure it would be a large enough platform and came up with the original plan (little did I know how much would change):

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Fair warning, when buying a military surplus HMMWV, there's a lot of variants and none of them have any kind of "standard equipment". Essentially big rolling boxes of chocolate. I ended up winning an auction for a M1152 ECV 15.5k GVWR non-runner (more on the drivetrain swap below) for $7700 in December 2020. These are typically the up-armored variant which is then un-armored in the demilitarization process. After 3 months of background check/bureaucratic paperwork, I was finally able to take receipt of the truck in March 2021. Here's how it looked the day I got it:

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As Mr. Solo once said, "She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts".

Drivetrain Swap
I got this truck as a non-runner because I knew I didn't want to keep the stock (gutless) GM 6.5 turbodiesel and 4L80e. They aren't known for their reliability, power, serviceability, or anything good really. A common swap into the Humvee is a Duramax/Allison combo (which was a factory option in the H1 Alpha), but I opted for a 12 valve Cummins 6BT because I prefer the fully mechanical nature of the engine. I went with an Allison 1000 since I wanted a double overdrive transmission with TC lockup in every gear for comfort and efficiency. In August 2021 I was able to find a used 12v Cummins from a friend for a good price, and an Allison 1000 on Craigslist. The engine ran fine, but with the amount of work going into this build I decided to give it a full rebuild/reseal. Before/during/after pics:

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While it was apart I checked all tolerances, everything was well within spec which was great news! At the same time I sent the Allison off for a rebuild at the local transmission shop. After it came back, I swapped the shift lever and valve body to convert it from a 5 speed to a 6 speed (all the internals are the same between 5 and 6 speed Allisions, 6th is just a combo of two existing clutches). I don't have many pictures of that process but happy to share more if anyone is interested. Around the same time I also pulled the old drivetrain out of the truck which ended up being a huge pain because I decided to do it on gravel... You live and you learn I guess. Also, there's enough clearance to where you can roll the chassis over its own transmission with no interference, which was fun

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After the fiasco of pulling a drivetrain on gravel I caved and rented some shop space for the duration of the project. While transporting the truck I was able to get a dry weight in the current configuration (raw body on frame with no drivetrain): 4420 lbs. Adding 1500 lbs back for drivetrain will put it around 6k, then doors/glass/comfort plus a lightweight body should be able to sneak under 10k, hopefully.

Also, some detail on why I want to stay under 10k lbs: using this calculator for some back-of-the-napkin contact patch measurements, with a weight of 10k lbs on 40" tires aired down to 21 psi there's ~4" of deflection in the sidewall and a ground pressure of ~11 psi. Compared to a human's average ground pressure of 16 psi it makes for a good reference point when driving over mud, sand, and deep snow.

I've hit the 10 picture limit here, continued on the next post...
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
OMG hurry up I need to see more of this. This is gonna be rad
Yes I agree.

The goal here is to have a 4 season habitat with enough luxury for two adults and a dog, while keeping the entire build under 10k lbs. With a curb weight of 6200 I think it's possible. I originally was looking at LMTV/Steyr 12M18 platforms but they're so big and heavy I wouldn't be able to go most places I already could in a 2wd van (not to mention a max speed around 55mph). Stepping down from those to medium duty truck platforms was reasonable, however still bigger and heavier than I was wanting. The Fuso 4x4 and some Unimogs fit the bill, but the prices for those have skyrocketed in the US and still didn't check all the boxes. Enter the HMMWV. After talking with a friend for months about this idea we decided it was worth a shot. I threw together some rough layout sketches to make sure it would be a large enough platform and came up with the original plan (little did I know how much would change):

View attachment 739854
Are you planning to build the camper yourself?
 

zioxkoa

Member
Next up was pulling the body off the frame and placing the drivetrain in. This involved getting new motor mounts for the engine (I used Mountain Machine's mounts), a Cummins to Allison bellhousing adapter plate and flexplate (also MM), new torque converter for the lower RPM powerband of the engine, and custom fabricating a transmission crossmember since the entire assembly was a few inches further back.

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Cabover Swap
This is around when I decided to do the full-on cabover swap. It started with some brainstorming, then measuring the frame and an Isuzu NPR cab at a local junkyard, then calculating load on the proposed frame extensions and doing some sanity checks. It wasn't the direction I was planning to go initially, but it had been in the back of my mind. The combination of low visibility and comfort in the HMMWV body left a lot to be desired, plus the engine and transmission weren't in accessible spots for future maintenance. The one piece aluminum body also was going to be less than ideal for building and securing a habitat to. A tilt-cab setup allows for easier engine access, provides better visibility and comfort than a Humvee cab, and allows the habitat to be larger for the same total length. I decided to go through with it and picked up a used 2005 Isuzu NPR cab for $3000. Some photoshops of how I imagined the mounting:
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With the cab in hand I could finally get started with the mounting bracket fabrication. I didn't want to weld directly onto the frame since it's a heat treated high tensile steel, so I went with a plate that marries up to the existing frame and is secured with existing through-bolts. Running some quick math on the proposed bolt carrier group showed it was well within the margin of safety, so I started fabricating those brackets. I got lucky and realized the HMMWV air lift hooks almost lined up with the rear cab mounts if they were reversed, which only required two new holes to be drilled and saved me a lot of fabrication headache with multiple angles etc. I threw together a rough idea in sketchup (more of a suggestion really) and got down to business. Marrying this up to the frame meant I had to disassemble and reassemble the entire front suspension assembly for every dry fit. Not fun.

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For anyone wondering, the Isuzu NPR cab weights 760 lbs without doors. With doors it's still lighter than the HMMWV body, so this bodes well for the total weight budget.

The 10 picture limit strikes again... More to come.
 

zioxkoa

Member
Cabover Swap (cont.)
Multiple dry fits, cuts, holes, tacks, and welds later I finally had extensions to mount the cab. I sprayed them with a two-part epoxy flat black and bolted them on, reassembling the suspension for the (hopefully) last time.

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(sorry for the photo dump)

These extensions will be tied together in the front with a hidden winch cradle for extra lateral stiffness, but as they sit there's no visible flex. With the extensions on it was finally time to place the cab down for the last time and reinstall the doors. This is how it's currently sitting.

Screenshot_20220517-131111_Lightroom.jpg

Transfer case
One of the major snags I hit was adapting the Allsion 1000 to the existing transfer case. The two problems were input spline count and clocking, but luckily clocking could be solved with a (custom thanks to a friend) clocking ring. The input shaft of the NP242 AMG (HMMWV transfer case) is a 32 spline, while the output of the Allison 1000 is a 29 spline. It was easier to swap the input shaft on the transfer case than the output on the Allison, so I went that route. After calling around Novak was able to hook me up with a drop-in input shaft that fit the NP242 (out of a Dodge NP241, P/N: 2412902R). Between that input shaft swap and the new clocking ring I was off to the races. Next up are custom driveshafts, steering, brakes, cooling, and all the electrical and small parts.

A lot of people have asked why not just get a new transfer case, and it's mainly because none that have the required input are switchable AWD/4x4. The NP242 AMG is unique in that it checks that box and also has stronger internals than the standard NP242. Additionally, it has an internal cooling loop for increased longevity on these higher duty cycle applications.

Up Next
Other than getting the truck running/driving, I've been working on a design for the habitat. It looks like there's about 14' of space before the departure angle gets too bad and I'm planning to build my own box (or get a DIY kit). With the engine sitting partly behind the cab I'll need to have a small bumpout/access panel inside the hab to fit around it but otherwise I think it will be a standard looking box with a departure angle. Unfortunately, I heard from Total Composites that they are no longer offering DIY kits and have shifted entirely to truck campers. Originally I was planning to go with their panels and pultrusions. I've started to look at some other options like GXV's DIY kit, Globe Trekker, and making my own sandwich panels. If anyone has thoughts or knows of any other DIY panel/corner/edge suppliers I'd be interested in hearing about it.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
Yeah, planning a composite sandwich panel camper. Trying to keep it light, but insulated enough to make a solar powered air conditioner viable.
That will be nice.

So disappointed you changed directions on the cab but I completely understand. Easy for me given I wouldn't have to worry about the discomfort. ;)
 

zioxkoa

Member
What is this sorcery you are speaking of?! A cab forward HMMWV with a habitat box... Okay, this took a left turn and I am totally digging it!!! Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
I had my doubts at first and then things took a crazy turn!

Appreciate it! ?
That will be nice.

So disappointed you changed directions on the cab but I completely understand. Easy for me given I wouldn't have to worry about the discomfort. ;)

Yeah the cab swap decision didn't come lightly, but ultimately it was the best for me. Sometimes I wonder if I'd be done already if I hadn't decided to do it :LOL:
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
So something that dawned on me, how is the steering going to be handled? I know on the cab forward trucks, they typically are running a solid front axle, so it's not too hard but being an independent front, where the steering box was setup like a conventional truck, trying to figure out how that can be done.
 

zioxkoa

Member
So something that dawned on me, how is the steering going to be handled? I know on the cab forward trucks, they typically are running a solid front axle, so it's not too hard but being an independent front, where the steering box was setup like a conventional truck, trying to figure out how that can be done.
Great question! Something I've been noodling on for the last few months ;) I'll be using a combo of miter boxes and ujoints to bring the steering back from the CFE position to the HMMWV steering box. Sheppard (who makes the ECV HMMWV steering box) has a miter box used on other heavy equipment which can make the two 90 degree angles I need, but there's other options such as the Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport steering gear and Flaming River's VDOG kit. The Sheppard unit:
1664293851621.png1664293869001.png
I've measured the angles and spline counts for the constituent pieces and everything should work. I prefer routing the steering this way rather than remounting the steering gear and creating a new link with a different geometry etc. since it leaves the amplified moment after the steering box as short as possible.
 

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