Camper Shells: your experiences and suggestions

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
I believe Strider was talking about this kind of shell:

woodshell3.jpg


Here's a view from the front. Notice how the front is "rounded" but the sides are straight up and down, as is the back:

woodshell.jpg


They were quite common in the 60's and 70's. IIRC the construction was like an older RV, a wood frame with aluminum sheeting on the outside, insulation under that and wood paneling on the inside.

As for why they don't make them any more, I think both cost and demand have to account for that. It's got to be labor-intensive to build up a wooden frame and then stretch aluminum panels over it, compared to a fiberglass shell that is just made over a mold and then heated. Also the design did not lend itself to the more streamlined and aerodynamic looking trucks of the 80's.
 

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
Lol.....this picture is actually my old 1970 that I got in High School. Picture was taken around 1990 inside my dad's shop. The truck was getting a fresh 350 at that time. It would probably break your hearts to know I had to pay to junk that shell. I actually bought another 1972 C20 in 2002 with the same shell and had to pay to junk it too.


woodshell.jpg
 

RU55ELL

Explorer
For those with a cap, does it leak at all? Mine keeps getting water in around the 3rd brake light. I siliconed around it but that didn't seem to work.
 

pyrate

Rollin' along
Shell w/ this bed liner?

Anyone attached a shell with this style bed liner? I know most shells clamp on so this kind of liner causes a problem. I guess I can cut holes where the clamps go, but would it seal against the liner where it runs on the top of the bed rails?

Anyone tried this?

Thanks.

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Czechsix

Watching you from a ridge
They'll seal adequately. Most places use a hole saw to port clamp holes in the liner. Probably the fastest way.
 

pyrate

Rollin' along
They'll seal adequately. Most places use a hole saw to port clamp holes in the liner. Probably the fastest way.

Cool. I wasn't sure if the wrapping bedliner would cause some problems with how the shell sits on it therefore not sealing well.

Thanks!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I have been running my cap-high used snugtop on the dodge for a few year now.

At 1st I built a simple sleeping platform in the back and plopped an air bed on top. This was comfy, but it took up WAY too much room. You just couldn't easily get to anything under the platform. The headroom was just not enough for us. After waking up in the night and wacking our heads....and trying to get dressed in the morning inside the shell...out came the platform.

P1010271.jpg


The current setup still uses the same $100 used camper shell. I cut layed a 4x8 sheet of plywood on the floor that was covered in carpet. Then we threw an old 3" thick futon mattress in the back. For us this works pretty darn good. You can roll the mattress up and remove it if you need to. The bed take abut 3 minutes to set up. We can strap four of the walmart plastic bins in the front of the bed for gear and still have enough room to sleep with the tailgate up.

IMAG0100.jpg


Current changes....

-There is a 4-can Jerry can mount at the front passenger corner of the bed.
-A full size spare is being moved to the drivers side standing straight up against the drivers bed rail.

Things I would change or do different currently....

-I wish I could find a modular soft side camper shell with a hard top. Something like a cross between a can-back and regular shell. That way I could roll the sides up for better visibility. The difference in visibility without the shell on is DRAMATIC!

-I want to add a airplane style tie down track on the floor AND on the bed rails facing in. Being able to tie down gear better would be nice.

-The tip up windows would be nice on the side to make it feel more open and air things out.

-A spray in bedliner would be nice.

-I would have used marine carpet and waterproofed the plywood used on the floor

Thats about all I can think of now....
 

SeeJ

New member
set-up for one

Here are some pics of my set-up. Hope they're useful to someone.

In looking at the pics, I think I should have asked Rubbermaid for sponsorship. :)

The rig is an A.R.E., Model MX, cap with the walk-in door option on a 2010 F-150, single cab with 8 foot box.

The man-door on the cap is a great option for camping because: it is far more convenient than the hatch for climbing into and out of; holds less wind and the smaller opening means less water in the bed upon entry/egress in inclement weather.
The cons: You lose the tailgate so the picnic table is gone; the large back hatch is a real pain to weather/water seal. (The front window also leaked. It took me several trips to the installer and a finally a hissy fit with a threat to leave it in their parking lot as a pile of fibreglass splinters before they finally did it half right. The front window was replaced. The back hatch still leaks a little but it's tolerable.)

The bunk is sized for a ThermaRest mattress (advice: use 3/4 inch plywood or nominal lumber for the support structure and 3/8 or even 1/2 inch for the sleeping platform ... more flex = more comfort and it's a little lighter).

The closet (because my travel needs include some business wear) is 3/4 plywood and sized to fit a large suit/coat hanger. It is 18 inches wide inside - enough for a week's worth of business clothing.

The counter/shelf is sized to fit a Coleman Perfect-Flow propane stove, which sits under the sliding window for max. ventilation and moisture management. I rarely use the stove in the cap, but sometimes the weather is just too ********y to get outside. Conveniently, this also suits the cooler and plastic milk crates.

Both the bunk and shelf allow 9 inch high bins to be stored underneath. These are used for my clothing, emergency supplies, food, etc. ... anything you'd put in a cupboard or dresser at home. They are also the same height. Therefore, if there was ever a need to sleep more than one, a sheet of plywood can be placed across both structures for a sleeping platform.

The Rubbermaid bins have the advantage of being stackable and waterproof (unless submerged -- then you have bigger issues). BTW, Rubbermaid Roughtote bins will not get brittle in cold weather. Most of the other brands WILL shatter if they're struck while cold.

Next steps: hitch-mounted cargo carrier with deep cycle battery and a 20lb propane tank. Bulk propane is cheaper but should not be stored in the sleeping area. The battery will be charged by a solar panel and used to run electronics in the cap. I'm trying to devise a way to include a bicycle carrier with that set-up but my metal fabrication skills are rudimentary.

More to come as things develop.

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pyrate

Rollin' along
Window Screen

Anyone found a good option for window screens on the back window? I want to be able to leave the rear window open on hot nights but attach a screen for bugs. Anyone found anything pre-made for this or done a custom option?

Thanks!
 

CCH

Adventurer
I'd imagine some mosquito netting and adhesive velcro would do the trick for that. You could use magnets along the bottom to hold it tight to the tailgate and make for easy -- more likely easier -- in and out.
 

pyrate

Rollin' along
Here's my set up for less than $5, its a hammock bug net found in any outdoor related store

I take it there is no wind where you are? :hehe:

I will take a look around and see what I can find to make something. I thought there might be something already on the market but maybe not.

Cheers!

:bike_rider:
 

WCO

It's Lil' Willi
I have a vote in for the ARE, but if money weren't an issue, as it so apparently is when a wife is a deciding factor in any purchase, I'd buy one of those Caravan's made in Reno. I've seen a few, and they're awesome, except for being made of steel and rusting over time, but they'll take a beating! I also vote for the side doors on a shell, make life EASY! Heres mine, rack is getting built as we speak
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