Can I connect the new Dometic PLB40 to a YellowTop?

[MattJ]

Response on Dometic website (as expected):

Hey Matt - You can charge the PLB40 with the included AC or DC power adapter, but you will experience a loss in power efficiency when converting the DC power from your vehicle to AC. It would be most efficient to charge the PLB40 with DC power when charging by vehicle, if possible.

 

[67cj5]

There is a specification for the PLB40 charging input.

e.g. "between 10.5 and 19V, no higher than 35A"

If your energy source output is within that spec, you can try just plugging it in.

But use an ammeter to check current flow, ideally test the temperature of your alternator if the draw is too high.

Safer to buy a DC-DC converter that can match that spec on its output side, and accepts as input the output from your sources.

Ideally adjustable and current-limiting.

John there is no need to buy a DC to DC Charger because the Dometic PLB 40 has a built in DC to DC charger already built in to it and you plug the Cigar/Anderson lead in to the Cigar socket on the car and the Anderson Plug end in to the back of the PLB 40 and that fires up the internal DC to DC Charger in the PLB 40, Also It has a built in Charger controller ready for when you need to hook up a 120/150w Solar Panel Direct without using an external charge controller.

Hope that helps.

 

[dman93]

John there is no need to buy a DC to DC Charger because the Dometic PLB 40 has a built in DC to DC charger already built in to it and you plug the Cigar/Anderson lead in to the Cigar socket on the car and the Anderson Plug end in to the back of the PLB 40 and that fires up the internal DC to DC Charger in the PLB 40, Also It has a built in Charger controller ready for when you need to hook up a 120/150w Solar Panel Direct without using an external charge controller.

Hope that helps.

I asked this another thread, but other than making your own, is there a readily available MC4 to Anderson SB50 cable to connect the solar panel to the PLB40? Thanks.

 

[Grendel Kahn]

Like this?

Goal Zero 98014 Solar MC4 to Anderson Powerpole Input Adapter Cable by Powerwerx

Connect your solar panel MC4 connectors to your Goal Zero Yeti 1250 Anderson Powerpole fingerproof connector input. Made with 10 gauge super flexible power wire. 24 inches long. Direct replacement for Goal Zero 98014, made by Powerwerx.

powerwerx.com

 

[67cj5]

I asked this another thread, but other than making your own, is there a readily available MC4 to Anderson SB50 cable to connect the solar panel to the PLB40? Thanks.

Not that I know of But if you got another one of the PLB 40 Cigar / Anderson 12v Leads you could remove the Cigar Plug and put 2 MC4's on there, Because all the Voltage regulation in done inside the PLB 40 via it's built in DC to DC Charger Controller / Regulator, It truly is a Stand Alone Battery Pack,

If you shine a light in to the Anderson Socket on the back of the PLB 40 you will see which one is + and which one is - because they are marked on the top of them.

I bought 2 of the PLB 40's and I have just started testing one of them using my Dometic CDF 18L Fridge Freezer,

hope that helps,

 

[dman93]

Not that I know of But if you got another one of the PLB 40 Cigar / Anderson 12v Leads you could remove the Cigar Plug and put 2 MC4's on there, Because all the Voltage regulation in done inside the PLB 40 via it's built in DC to DC Charger Controller / Regulator, It truly is a Stand Alone Battery Pack,

If you shine a light in to the Anderson Socket on the back of the PLB 40 you will see which one is + and which one is - because they are marked on the top of them.

I bought 2 of the PLB 40's and I have just started testing one of them using my Dometic CDF 18L Fridge Freezer,

hope that helps,

Thanks for the tip on checking the polarity of the Andersons. I searched several places, couldn’t find any info. I’m capable of making my own harness but hoped to avoid it. I also might use an MC4 to female cigarette lighter cable, of which I found one, though I was hoping to avoid extra connections.

 

[john61ct]

Standard ciggie sockets are IMO a dangerous abortion, avoid like the plague for anything important, or that you use regularly.

Never more than 5-6A and only for short periods, as in a few minutes. Even then they are risky, an inherently poor design!

Blue Sea has a nice socket design that twist-locks with the matching plug, but will also accept standard ciggie plugs for smaller temporary loads.

Also the BMW/ Hella/ Merit/ Powerlet "Euro-style DIN" (ISO 4165) style is very robust.

Anderson plugs for high amps, for me that's my standard "Rosetta Stone" for almost all power connections.

If you standardize on one of the last two types, there are adapters for guests, temporary use of devices with standard ciggie plugs.

 

[Mpl1978]

@john61ct or anyone else for that matter. I just bought a dometic plb40 and plan to power it with the rear cig lighter from '04 lx470 and then use the bugout120 solar to top it off when parked. My question is, can I replace the rear cig lighter to the anderson connection easily- likely a stupid question. I am not terribly handy, but what is the safest way to replace the existing cig lighter with something the plb40 can be charged with - while using the wiring from the cig lighter, if possible, so i dont have to run new wire?

 

[dman93]

@john61ct or anyone else for that matter. I just bought a dometic plb40 and plan to power it with the rear cig lighter from '04 lx470 and then use the bugout120 solar to top it off when parked. My question is, can I replace the rear cig lighter to the anderson connection easily- likely a stupid question. I am not terribly handy, but what is the safest way to replace the existing cig lighter with something the plb40 can be charged with - while using the wiring from the cig lighter, if possible, so i dont have to run new wire?

Cigarette lighter connectors aren’t great for many reasons, but I suspect a bigger problem with using your rear lighter circuit, even if you replace the connector, will be wire gauge. I think most Toyota outlets use 18 ga or thinner wire, and charging the PLB with that wire over the length of the vehicle will incur a significant voltage drop. Even if there’s no heat issue, charging will be slowed down. At 10A which the PLB can support, you’d lose over 1V at 13V supply and 15 ft of 16 ga wire. i think 10 ga is recommended for this application. A quality cig lighter can probably handle 10A but may loosen with vibration off road.

 

[john61ct]

Use BSS "Circuit Wizard" app, calc the AWGfor your desired voltage dro and run a dedicated pair back to the Alt/Starter circuit.

 

[john61ct]

Standard ciggie sockets are IMO a dangerous abortion, avoid like the plague for anything important, or that you use regularly. Never more than 5-6A and only for short periods, as in a few minutes. Even then they are risky, an inherently poor design!

Blue Sea has a nice socket design that twist-locks with the matching plug, but will also accept standard ciggie plugs for smaller (
Also the BMW/ Hella/ Merit/ Powerlet "Euro-style DIN" (ISO 4165) style is very robust.

Anderson plugs for high amps, for me my standard, for almost all power connections.

If you standardize on one of the last two types, there are adapters for guests, temporary use of devices with standard ciggie plugs.

 

[MattJ]

Optima will indeed be fast murdered if you make this a habit, not what I call a good deep cycling battery, and should not be often drawn below 50% of its 20-hour Ah rating. 10.5V is a murderously low point, standard 0%SoC for lead capacity load testing, maybe a half dozen times in a lifetime and to be immediately recharged upon touching.

Murdered. I don't know if it was all the playing around with the Dometic battery or some other crimes committed against the Optima YellowTop over time (leaving accessory lights on, etc), but it died. Voltimeter was reading 6.4v yesterday.

On the bright side, the Genesis dual-battery bracket system made it relatively easy to swap in a new YellowTop.

No more battery experiments for me . . .

 

[john61ct]

from now on use proper true deep cycling units, not relying on the mfg claims

There is a very short list of respected manufacturers of batteries truly suitable for deep cycling usage, and none are focused on big box retail nor the automotive market.

1. in good quality true deep cycling FLA costs a lot less per Ah up front.

2. AGM has just a handful of good makers, much harder to find locally, delivery costs destroy the value equation

3. Will not last near as long as a good FLA equivalent, so $/Ah/year even worse value. Plus the PITA of replacing more frequently.

4. Much narrower special specs on proper care, may need to replace your charge sources, much easier to overcharge, much more susceptible to sulfation (early death) from chronic PSOC undercharging which is the norm for most uncalibrated charge sources even costing $500+

5. Cannot replace electrolyte nor use a hydrometer

That's just off the top of my head, I'm sure there are more

Can you use FLA rather than sealed?

FLA is better value, more robust and longer lasting if you can go that way.

The best battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) FLA deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, around $200 per 200+AH @12V pair from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club. Deka labeled same batts also sold at Lowes.

Others include Rolls/Surette, Trojan, U.S. Battery, Crown and Superior.

If you truly need AGM, Odyssey, Northstar & Lifeline are the top makers there.

What is a Deep Cycle Battery? - Marine How To

Light Cycle vs. Deeper Cycle NOTE: This article deals with FLOODED marine batteries, not AGM or GEL batteries. The Problem: The problem, as I see it, is one of dishonest marketing where multiple battery types wear the same clothes (sticker) and will perform differently when

marinehowto.com

 

[67cj5]

from now on use proper true deep cycling units, not relying on the mfg claims

There is a very short list of respected manufacturers of batteries truly suitable for deep cycling usage, and none are focused on big box retail nor the automotive market.

1. in good quality true deep cycling FLA costs a lot less per Ah up front.

2. AGM has just a handful of good makers, much harder to find locally, delivery costs destroy the value equation

3. Will not last near as long as a good FLA equivalent, so $/Ah/year even worse value. Plus the PITA of replacing more frequently.

4. Much narrower special specs on proper care, may need to replace your charge sources, much easier to overcharge, much more susceptible to sulfation (early death) from chronic PSOC undercharging which is the norm for most uncalibrated charge sources even costing $500+

5. Cannot replace electrolyte nor use a hydrometer

That's just off the top of my head, I'm sure there are more

Can you use FLA rather than sealed?

FLA is better value, more robust and longer lasting if you can go that way.

The best battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) FLA deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, around $200 per 200+AH @12V pair from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club. Deka labeled same batts also sold at Lowes.

Others include Rolls/Surette, Trojan, U.S. Battery, Crown and Superior.

If you truly need AGM, Odyssey, Northstar & Lifeline are the top makers there.

What is a Deep Cycle Battery? - Marine How To

Light Cycle vs. Deeper Cycle NOTE: This article deals with FLOODED marine batteries, not AGM or GEL batteries. The Problem: The problem, as I see it, is one of dishonest marketing where multiple battery types wear the same clothes (sticker) and will perform differently when

marinehowto.com

I agree, My 2 FLA's are 3 and a half years old and still have 13.3v after they have been off the charger for 24 hours, and by time I have run them down to 12.9v adds another 20/24 hours runtime when I am running the ARB 47, Can't knock FLA's when it comes to power,

 

[Martinjmpr]

I agree, My 2 FLA's are 3 and a half years old and still have 13.3v after they have been off the charger for 24 hours, and by time I have run them down to 12.9v adds another 20/24 hours runtime when I am running the ARB 47, Can't knock FLA's when it comes to power,

+1. Been running 2 x 6v Duracell/Deka FLA batteries in our trailer for 3 years now. 230AH and we keep it topped off with a 100w solar panel when not hooked to shore power. I also have a 90AH FLA for my "power box" that sits in the truck to power the 12v Truckfridge. Only a year in on that but working great on the 20A Renogy DC-DC charger.

My total investment in all 3 batteries is maybe $350. I think that would get you maybe halfway to ONE LiFePo 100AH battery.