Class III Hidden Hitch... really class II??

winkosmosis

Explorer
A few months ago I installed a Hidden Hitch on my XJ... then I realized the numbers are really class II instead of class III like it's supposed to be rated at. Had I realized this, I would have gone with the Curt, especially since the HH doesn't really tuck behind the bumper like everyone on the internet claims.

But what is the reason for the different rating? Could it be less strong than the other brands? Or is it based on what they think the vehicle can handle?

http://www.etrailer.com/products.as...=submit&category=hitch&year=1999&make=Jeep&h=

Hidden Hitch:

Class III Receiver Hitch
Fits Jeep Cherokee
2" Hitch Opening
3,500 Towing
5,000 Weight Dist

Curt:

Class III Receiver Hitch
Fits Jeep Cherokee
2" Hitch Opening
5,000 Towing
6,000 Weight Dist

Draw Tite:

Class III Max Frame Receiver Hitch
Fits Jeep Cherokee
2" Hitch Opening
3,500 Towing
5,500 Weight Dist

Valley (same #s as HH):

Class III Receiver Hitch
Fits Jeep Cherokee
2" Hitch Opening
3,500 Towing
5,000 Weight Dist
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
I have a U-haul hitch currently and it is the same rating at the HH, DT and Valley. I also have a factory Mopar that I am going to swap on and I think it has a higher rating (will have to check the sticker again) but in looking at the two, the Mopar one has a much better/number of bolt holes then the U-haul one, which might contribute to the higher rating.

I know I would not even thing about towing 5000# with a XJ. I do not trust the uni-body subframe that much. I would have to seriously reinforce the mounting. 3500# may be the practical safe limit and hence the companies are rating these other hitches as such. The Curt one may be rating the hitch itself as being able to handle the Class III rating but doesn't account for the practical vehicle usage.

My .02 worth.
 

winkosmosis

Explorer
The stock hitch uses two more bolt holes, one each at the very rear of the nutstrips. Every aftermarket one misses those. So it would make sense that really only the stocker should be rated that high, and the aftermarket ones are just going along with that number.

Edit: Err I mean the very front of the nutstrips, furthest from the bumper
 
Last edited:

wADVr

Adventurer
The stock hitch uses two more bolt holes, one each at the very rear of the nutstrips. Every aftermarket one misses those. So it would make sense that really only the stocker should be rated that high, and the aftermarket ones are just going along with that number.

This is very important IMO for longevity of the vehicle. Every XJ I have ever seen that has been rear ended, the 'frame' buckles right past the aftermarket hitch mounting where the fuel filler passes through. Never seen one with the factory style have this problem as it extends past this point on both sides of the vehicle. I wouldnt be so worried about the capacity but how it mounts, it has a 2" receiver and that the receiver mount isnt hanging too low. My 1st XJ had one that was very compact with the receiver right up under the bumper so it was never a problem with clearance.

I have towed alot of weight behind a few of the XJs I have had and never had any issues with the strength of the vehicle but controlling everything becomes an issue. I would say 3500lbs would be a fair limit for safely towing.
 

inked33

Adventurer
i couldnt even imagine trying to tow 5,000 lbs. with any of my old cherokees. i dont know if i would even be comfortable towing 3,500 lbs. with it but that just me
 

alosix

Expedition Leader
i couldnt even imagine trying to tow 5,000 lbs. with any of my old cherokees. i dont know if i would even be comfortable towing 3,500 lbs. with it but that just me

x2

Fairly narrow track, still pretty short wheelbase, pitiful brakes stock, not enough cooling stock (engine or tranny).

To envision 5k you'd be looking at a compact to mid size sedan on a reasonably light trailer.

If you're just looking to tug a utility trailer around or use it for recovery 3500 is more than enough.

Jason
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
The Curt is mis-classed. It may be structurally capable of dealing with the weight but the practical application is wrong as suggested above.

When in doubt, look at the owner's manual. The XJ is rated for 3500 lbs, 5000 lbs with a weight distributing hitch.

The XJ is a light weight, relatively short wheelbase vehicle. I wouldn't attempt to tow 5000 lbs without a weight distributing hitch and anti-sway setup. In fact, this is what I will be doing to tow the car to events.
 

wADVr

Adventurer
yeah, the heaviest load a ever towed was a loaded down MJ on a pretty stout car dolly....was probably the scariest 200 miles of my life. Second highest was a Honda Accord on a tow dolly which I think at the time was figured to be about 3500lbs total. Towed it with ease, up and over a few mountain passes. The lack of tongue weight aided that ALOT im sure.
 

inked33

Adventurer
like mentioned above the cherokee is just such a short wheelbase it will make for some scary situations. ive never tried towing with a weight distributing hitch with anti sway on an xj but im sure it would be better then without it.

what did you want to tow with it anyway?
 

winkosmosis

Explorer
This is very important IMO for longevity of the vehicle. Every XJ I have ever seen that has been rear ended, the 'frame' buckles right past the aftermarket hitch mounting where the fuel filler passes through. Never seen one with the factory style have this problem as it extends past this point on both sides of the vehicle. I wouldnt be so worried about the capacity but how it mounts, it has a 2" receiver and that the receiver mount isnt hanging too low. My 1st XJ had one that was very compact with the receiver right up under the bumper so it was never a problem with clearance.

I have towed alot of weight behind a few of the XJs I have had and never had any issues with the strength of the vehicle but controlling everything becomes an issue. I would say 3500lbs would be a fair limit for safely towing.

That is very interesting. What do you think of adding reinforcements? It should't be too hard to get some strips of 3/16 or 1/4 steel (or L or C section) and drill holes to match the nut strip. I'd think the best thing would be to sandwich the strips between the hitch and the framerails. You could epoxy them on too.
 

winkosmosis

Explorer
like mentioned above the cherokee is just such a short wheelbase it will make for some scary situations. ive never tried towing with a weight distributing hitch with anti sway on an xj but im sure it would be better then without it.

what did you want to tow with it anyway?

I have nothing to tow right now but I figured the higher rated hitches would be stronger or more rigid
 

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