classic range rover diesel conversion

LtFuzz

Explorer
light (you need a whole lot less power if your motor is not the size of a small car).


The OM617 is lighter at ~600 lbs... but the 4BT is actually heavier than the 6.2L by about 30 lbs. 6.2s are NOT as big as people think they are. They're about the size/weight of every other gas/diesel motor in their class. GM designed these things to be a plug-and-play factory option for their gas motors during the mid '70s gas crisis. They were not designed as ground-up heavy duty truck diesel motor. Consumers were only supposed to notice the mileage increase and not much else. This isn't the truck engine people think it is -- this was a consumer light-duty diesel.

The OM617 has no where near the power of the 6.2. Are OM61X motors sweet? Yeah. I have an OM616 240D and it runs like it did from the factory 31 years ago. An OM617 might pull a Series down the road, but it's not going to pull a built Disco without being painful... And the slight increase in MPG isn't going to cover any of the ancillary costs incurred by maintenance and/or failure.

There are tons of "better" diesels than the 6.2. But remember cost/miles per dollar are a big thing here --- you can get long blocks and even compete runners for under $1,000. At gov't auction sites you can find running 6.2s for $400-$600.

I can get any part for this motor at any major auto parts chain in my town. Or any town.
 
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REDROVER

Explorer
Where was the Land Rover Built?

6.2 is a big motor and personally I do not like the V8 design to work on.

Personally I would have gone OM617 (Mercedes) or if you must have "American" Cummins 4BT.

Mechanical pumps, iron blocks/heads, inline design, strong reliable motors, light (you need a whole lot less power if your motor is not the size of a small car).

Good luck with the build

why would i put mbz motor ? when 6.2 fits right in there and u can get parts in every part store.

as far a cummins motor it has its own problems, its is more expensive and parts are way more expensive ,

and the other ting to consider is this 6.2 is not very powerful to damage my transmission but with cummins 5.9 it can easy break zf22.
 
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dragogt

Adventurer
i got my motor on ebay from >> teds truck an staf << with sheaping to calif it was $1390 motor was run and compresiion tested and come with the paper that shows the test results

Just an FYI, if you havent pulled a head to take a look at the cylinders ya might want to do so; A member on TTS got one of there engines, but it apparently was one that slipped through the cracks and had rust in the cylinders; I will say that they did send him a replacement free of charge..

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...y-at-1st-VERY-HAPPY-NOW-GREAT-after-sale-care
 

REDROVER

Explorer

repete

Observer
possibly yes, that will be low cost and easy solution for 6.2 diesel conversions

and also i am changing the heater system to 25.000 btu electric unit that we use in the limousines., so that big ugly non efficient unit is gone.

I would love to know more about this heating system you are planning to use.
 

REDROVER

Explorer
I would love to know more about this heating system you are planning to use.

from our experience this unit can heat up 25 passenger hummer limousine in a few min, it is electric witch means instant heat. it is reliable, not as big and heavy as the original unit .

it fits right in the place of the original unit and will be hooked up to the existing lines .

as soon as i receive the unit i will post more info about it

Eric
 

DividingCreek

Explorer
I'm following this with a great deal of interest. You guys are enamored with the 6.2 and I'm interested to see if the torque converter and trans governor will need changing to use the torque curve of the diesel.
I was looking @ m1008's for use as a farm pickup and the advice I got from several people was that you want an 86 or newer engine. Is this the "j" code you guys refer to ? Apparently the pre 86 engines aren't even considered worthy of rebuilding in some circles. Why the 6.2 instead of the 6.5 ?
 

dragogt

Adventurer
6.5 is basically a bored out 6.2, so the cyl walls are a little stronger as are the main webs iirc..

J or F code refers to the HD non egr Vin Number/ Engine Code...
 

headdamage

Observer
I've run a 6.2na diesel in a suburban and and it used to average around 23mpg US. I've also got a friend that has a 6.5na diesel in a 110 and he also gets over 20mpg US with it. I've got the old J code 6.2na from the suburban in the garange and I've been thinking of fitting it into my 87RR so I'm interested in how this goes.
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
what kind of mileage are you getting in town traffic with the motors?

i'm trying to figure out if its worth it money wise. my range rover P38 has 104K miles on it. it doesn't burn oil, and i just took it down to Salt Lake City from Billings Montana. I averaged 18 MPG for the whole trip, including driving around SLC for 1.5 days.

Currently gas is $3.29 here and $3.39. Diesel is running $3.99 most places right now.

math wise the conversion doesn't make sense.

Say with a diesel in a Range Rover and i get 20 mpg. with a 20 gallon tank that's a 400 mile range. cost to fill the tank is $79.80.

with the gas motor getting 18 mpg, i would have a 320 mile range. cost to fill the gaser is $65.80. so i'm paying $0.18 a mile.

with a diesel i would be paying $0.20 per mile.

the cost to maintain my engine on my Range Rover is Around $200 a year using Mobil 1 oil and good ignition parts. That's changing the oil every 5000-7000 miles.

Oil Changes on Diesels generally run $100. so i would calculate running that motor and maintenance costs to be about $350 a year or so.

i love diesel's but i guess i just don't see a cost justification until i blow up my motor.

plus i can't hear or feel my engine inside the cab. i hate noise and vibration. i guess that's why i love mercedes and range rovers.:victory:
 

ArmyRover

Adventurer
I get 11 mpg in town and 15 on the highway in my RRC. If I can get 18 to 22 the math more than works for me.
 

REDROVER

Explorer
I get 11 mpg in town and 15 on the highway in my RRC. If I can get 18 to 22 the math more than works for me.


my classic with the roof tent and camping gear was giving me 10 mpg, for me change was a must + my plan is to run 50/50 blend with wvo so its gonna cost me $ 1.80 a galon

Eric
 

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