Conversion & build of Jeep Unlimited Rubicon

madizell

Explorer
Given the choice between D44's and D60's, both sitting there at hand, I would use the D60's also, but maybe that's just me. I know how I drive and how I like to drive. I currently have two Jeeps with radically different build states. The '68 CJ-5 has a D44 rear with tapered, 2-piece axles and a Lock-Rite, and D27's in the front with open diffs. The Buick V-6 makes a great deal of torque for so light a vehicle, and on difficult trails, this car has to be driven carefully to avoid breakage. It will still get me there and back, and will cover some tough terrain, but nevertheless it has to be driven with vehicle limits in mind. I have to alter my acquired driving style to protect both myself and my vehicle in difficult terrain. Most of the time I don't mind. There are times when I would like to drive harder, but can't due to vehicle limits.

The CJ-7 on the other hand has Currie Ford 9's, 31 spline axles, ARB's and so on, one-ton drive shafts, and a '91 Mustang 5.0L HO with aluminum top end, JBA headers, and a long list of other refinements. It, too, makes a great deal of torque, but is built such that I can, when I want to, beat on it without fear of instant breakage. It was built for that purpose. Is it overbuilt for expo. Sure, but what of it. That's not all it does.

Both cars will go similar places. How I get there and the amount of fun I want to have getting there differs between the two. If I had only one car and needed it to do whatever I wanted it to do, mild to wild, I would build toward the higher standard mostly because I don't like fixing things on the trail, and I know how I like to drive.

I find nothing wrong with choosing to build to a higher standard of break resistance for expo use or any other. Whether it is necessary to do so depends on personal perspective. Here, we are talking about an experienced driver who knows his own style and has many years behind the wheel on which to base his judgments of himself and his needs in a vehicle. None of us need to second guess those needs or the decision making process behind the choices made.

Personally, I have never believed that the D44 is a heavy duty axle. Even Dana Corp does not think so. The D44 is a light to medium duty axle assembly depending on which parts go into it. It can, with sufficient money, be beefed up, but will never achieve the strength of the D60, and there is just no way to compare any D44 with a purpose built D60. Are they overkill in an expo vehicle? If you drive forest roads exclusively, always drive with conservative groups, do the camping thing exclusively, never overload, and never challenge your vehicle, perhaps they would be overkill. But Moab and similar trails are not exactly expo territory. Such trails lean toward hard core off-roading. They can be done with a stock vehicle, but the challenge is entirely different. Since the builder intends to do BOTH expo and hard trails, I fully understand the desire to use the heavier axles. I would, too. The fact that I could get a stock vehicle over Moab is neither here nor there. What I can do and what I want to regularly do might be different things.

But start with the very first post if you will. It was stated up front that the D60's were already on hand, and that their investment cost could not be recovered if sold. If you have never bought or sold custom axles, it might not be apparent, but such axles cost $4k give or take, but if sold used, will only get you $1K or perhaps $2K in return. Who would want to sell a pair of axles for $2K that originally cost $8K, and then turn around and spend a few thousand more to make the D44's do the job at hand. Arguments about overbuilding aside, I would see the choice as one of protecting an investment if nothing else.
 
madizell said:
But start with the very first post if you will. It was stated up front that the D60's were already on hand, and that their investment cost could not be recovered if sold. If you have never bought or sold custom axles, it might not be apparent, but such axles cost $4k give or take, but if sold used, will only get you $1K or perhaps $2K in return. Who would want to sell a pair of axles for $2K that originally cost $8K, and then turn around and spend a few thousand more to make the D44's do the job at hand. Arguments about overbuilding aside, I would see the choice as one of protecting an investment if nothing else.

Thats it in a nutshell right there.
 

Oman4x4

Laurie Bridger
Definitely a smart move transferring the axles into the new vehicle...


What are your suspension plans this time around? After moving up to 35" tires I've really decided that I've got no desire to be any higher... Maybe 36-37" rubber in the future if I replace my axle shafts and truss my housings.

The Highline Body kit is a brilliant way of getting those big tires under the Jeep and keeping its highway manners. 3" springs, SwayLoc, Bilstein shocks makes for a great all-purpose Jeep.

Not to hijack your thread, there's plenty of Highline photos on my www.oman4x4.com/gallery
 

SavageSunJeep

Adventurer
For those of you who know already this will not come as a surprise. 1) I do apply a lot of thought to what I do and buy and like the good software engineer I am I always apply the first rule of IT engineering...WHAT happens next? If you do X then what happens to Y(s) 2) I also like to experiment so I am apt to try things that are a bit off the wall and bleeding edge.

I have considered the Highline hood and even a good friend that has it installed, looks good and is even practical, truly a form follows function idea but in spite of that I just cannot justify that much $.

Suspension: Today I picked up 4 brand new never rolled OEM Rubicon springs from a 4 door JK. I am going to try them [see # 2 above].

Shocks: Rancho RS9000X the new bigger ones

Control arms: Still sorting on this but I am a real JKS fan and a staunch short arm advocate. Since I will not go beyond a 3 -3.5 suspension lift I see no need for long arms. [For those that wonder why, you can go to my website and read my thoughts on this and other 'Jeep things' here: http://www.savagesun4x4.com/enter/viewpoints-technical_discus/ ]

+1 inch MORE motor mount

Almost 2 inch Body lift

Fabbed Track Bar setup that will bring to an end TB induced oscillation better known as Death Wobble, read the install here: http://www.savagesun4x4.com/enter/jeep_installs/jks_front_track_bar_install.html

I have already ordered the OEM 7 blade fan and HD clutch assembly, read the install here: http://www.savagesun4x4.com/enter/jeep_installs/oem_7-blade_tj_fanclutch_in.html

As you can see some potential problems have been addressed in my last build.

More to come.
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
Don, I apologize as I have not read the entire thread and all it's drama, but I'm curious why you started with a Rubicon? It appears that you are pulling most of the Ruby bits out?

I look forward to seeing what you do regarding taking advantage of the extra room in the LJ. I haven't quite decided how I'm going to build out my interior yet.

Regards,

Nathan
 

SavageSunJeep

Adventurer
nwoods said:
Don, I apologize as I have not read the entire thread and all it's drama, but I'm curious why you started with a Rubicon? It appears that you are pulling most of the Ruby bits out?

I look forward to seeing what you do regarding taking advantage of the extra room in the LJ. I haven't quite decided how I'm going to build out my interior yet.

Regards,

Nathan
Nathan,
What I have is an '03 Rubi that I have had since Sep of '02 and I have now purchased an '06 Rubi. The makes everything I do a direct bolt to bolt, on.

In addition, since the '03 is going to be sold, and it is a Rubi, then installing any part in it (read axles) that are NOT Rubicon end items, DRASTICALLY reduces its value.

You have to remember that what I have in my '03 Rubi is a rock crawler, DD with 80k miles on it and never a breakage, never left it on the trail broke. I unlike so many of my rock crawling brethren would be humiliated and severely embarrassed if I broke on a trail run. And I am not talking 3 rated trails. My rig is a 4+++ trail rig. I have done Pritchet Canyon multiple times, twice in one day to rescue a broke Jeep and I have run it in both directions.

I did not build my Jeep to break down and not perform to a high standard.

Simple pride of ride translates into selling it as a honest rig. I will not short change anyone. I would be just as embarassed if some guy bought it and then a week or 6 mo later called me up and asked why it had a D30/D35 axle setup instead of the OEM D44's.

Or you can just say I am an old man with an outdated values and ethics. I will not be offended for I accept that I am truly a dinosaur in this day and age, my word is my bond and my handshake seals the deal.

The extra room in the new Jeep...wife, 4 dogs, what more can I say.

Wife and I took a 2 month vacation in my '03 Jeep and we only had one dog then...that Jeep was crammed to the rollbar.
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
SavageSunJeep said:
Nathan,
What I have is an '03 Rubi that I have had since Sep of '02 and I have now purchased an '06 Rubi. The makes everything I do a direct bolt to bolt, on.

In addition, since the '03 is going to be sold, and it is a Rubi, then installing any part in it (read axles) that are NOT Rubicon end items, DRASTICALLY reduces its value.

That makes a lot of sense..and very environmentally friendly. It's a sustainability plan that I applaud :)
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
Go with the 60's! Why not make the diffs something you will most likely never look at with the exception of preventative maintenance. I moved from rock crawling and competitions back to trail running with the family, you know, where it all started, I enjoy it a lot more. I am just finishing my latest trail rig and I went a little overboard, it was intended to be pulled behind our more highway and family friendly expedition rig and used to explore the local scenery but it's a little overkill. I'll probably sell it off and build something a little more civilized, step down to a 37" tire or maybe even a 40" tire because the "No lift Wrangler on 40's" in JP magazine is really cool (I think it is) but I will definitely not step away from the 60's for axle choice! There is 1 ton of safety features that are far too important to ignore like 1 ton disc brakes, axle bearings, steering linkage, etc. I matched a 1 ton hydroboost up to my diffs and the braking is incredible even on 42" rubber. I personally would not want to try and stop a fully loaded (expo gear adds up) Jeep on 35's in an emergency situation with the factory brakes. I don't think the anti lock function would even come into it's parameters of operation! Sorry for the partial hi jack but I think there is a lot more validity to your decision than recognized.

Cheers,
Mark.
 

SavageSunJeep

Adventurer
You are dead on Mark. Its not really a question of overbuilding as some my think but rather (or at least from my frame of reference) its doing a required point of failure analysis (POF).

D60's are far from being just over built: My current '03 Rubicon in full battle gear for Moab level rock crawling will tip the scale beyond the 5k lb mark. Then I am pulling a trailer, Canadian military M101 w/35 gal of fuel/water plus gear. Gross weight is certainly heading toward 7k lbs. You make the call!

In a well structured POF analysis you identify the POF and then they are prioritized in order of most likely to least likely. Each rig will be different. On my rig it is: 1) u joints and 2) radiator at the top of my list.

That said how do we mitigate? I will tell anyone that chance failure occurs and does so at the 100% level. This then begs the question of do we over build for or gain control of it. I often prefer the latter and I do so by using OEM size u joints. To do anything else only moves the problem somewhere else, like your ring and pinor gears!!!

Given the choice of a trail side repair I my choice is cheap u joints vs R&P.

As I stated in an earlier post every action taken you must answer the question of 'what happens next'. Cheap u joints fail and 'CTM' u joints don't, they just transfer the opportunity for failure somewhere else.

Second in my POF analysis was my radiator. This is effected by two potential failures. Internal and external. I can do little about internal but I can mitigate external by installing a radiator roll bar(s). In my case I have 2, one is a loop around the top of the radiator and the other is commonly called a 'stinger'. The stinger serves 2 purposes: 1) protects the radiator in the event of a roll over and 2) prevents the Jeep from flipping forward on a steep ledge or waterfall and landing on its top. The stinger will push the Jeep to the left or right.

The bonus is that a stinger may also help prevent injury or even death.

The other external is from a tree limb getting jammed into the radiator and causing a leak. This is a simple fix. Find a stick of wood that is dry cut it down until it will fit firmly into the hole, fill radiator with water, let the stick swell and be on your way.

Does it work? Dad bought a ranch truck back in '55. It was a used '54 Chevy 1/2 T and on the way home it over heated. Dad discovered it had a leak in the radiator. We walked around and Dad found a dry stick. Carved it and installed it in the radiator. We filled it with water and headed home. From time to time it would begin to leak...time for another stick. Dad sold that truck in '75 and it still had a stick in the radiator.
 
Last edited:

Photog

Explorer
Don,
I have always thought that the Point of Failure analysis is a good way to approach building a rig. Have you considered breaking traction before braking parts? It seems that if the parts were strong enough, the connection between the tire and ground would be the first thing to break. And that is a free fix.

With your new "Overland" vehicle approach, what tire are you going to use, that will have a stronger grip on the terrain, than the strength of the running gear? I'm not trying to be a smart mouth, I'm sure you have thought this through, and I am interested in those thoughts. With your tire of choice, what terrain will you be in that could break a R&P before breaking traction?
 
Photog said:
Don,
I have always thought that the Point of Failure analysis is a good way to approach building a rig. Have you considered breaking traction before braking parts? It seems that if the parts were strong enough, the connection between the tire and ground would be the first thing to break. And that is a free fix.

With your new "Overland" vehicle approach, what tire are you going to use, that will have a stronger grip on the terrain, than the strength of the running gear? I'm not trying to be a smart mouth, I'm sure you have thought this through, and I am interested in those thoughts. With your tire of choice, what terrain will you be in that could break a R&P before breaking traction?


The problem with breaking traction occurs when traction is re-gained.
 

SavageSunJeep

Adventurer
Photog said:
Don,
I have always thought that the Point of Failure analysis is a good way to approach building a rig. Have you considered breaking traction before braking parts? It seems that if the parts were strong enough, the connection between the tire and ground would be the first thing to break. And that is a free fix.

With your new "Overland" vehicle approach, what tire are you going to use, that will have a stronger grip on the terrain, than the strength of the running gear? I'm not trying to be a smart mouth, I'm sure you have thought this through, and I am interested in those thoughts. With your tire of choice, what terrain will you be in that could break a R&P before breaking traction?
While it sounds good, the problem is lack of control over the process. It will or will not break traction when it decides, not me.

That said the other down side is that often you don't break traction. Many expo rigs be it Jeeps or Toyota's run f/r lockers. on 3 occasions that come to mind I had my front lockers on and: 1) Moab, Utah my right front tire fell into a hole in the rock and it picked the Jeep up off the ground, 2) Texas, while driving alongside of a large hill my right front tire fell into a wash-out, this picked up the Jeep and flipped it over on its lid, 3) Hearst Ranch in Ca, while riding in a jeep across a valley the right front wheel of the jeep fell into a prairie dog hole, its picked up the jeep and laid it on its side.

Take said Jeep with its 5k lb travel weight and attach a trailer then you stand a fair change to break off a few teeth on the R&P if the right front gets jammed.

Same thing or worse can happen if you get in a bind while going thru a narrow rock walled passage.

As you can see, be it rock, sandy loam or black dirt all can flip a Jeep and if you don't flip, something gonna give...if the u joints are strong enough, what happens next, drive shaft could twist, gear(s) break on R&P, axle shaft breaks. Buy cheap OEM u joints and in 15 min you are back rolling again while your buddy with the CTM u joints is trying to figure out how he is gonna get a new ring gear and get it installed 100 miles from nowhere.

Tires: I have run the Goodyear MTRs, 7 sets on various Jeeps and trucks for many years, they work fine and are tough. I am currently runing on a new set of BFG KM2s and the traction is amazing, plus they are quieter on the highway.

Either one of these tires will grip tighter than than a one-armed trapzee artist.

Guys that have been around 4+++ trails and rock crawling can tell you, there is nothing on a rig that cannot be broken with a Jeep 6 cyl engine up front. There are plenty of guys running Dana 70 and 80 series axles. Those puppies have axle shafts as big as your thighs and u joints the size of pie plates. I run 35 spline shafts that are 1.5" in diameter. This is only about .25" larger in diameter than D44's.

Am I really OVER built or have I just increased my margin of success over failure for a respectable amount, yet not excessive.
 

Photog

Explorer
Don,
Thanks for the thoughtful reply.

I completely agree with the "Build it Stout" approach. Even more so, when you already have the parts from a previous build.

It makes sense, to have the U-Joints be the weakest point in the chain. I suspect your U-Joints are still more stout than the factory Jeep Rubi U-joints, and still the weak point?

I love those 2 door Unlimited's.
 
Last edited:

SavageSunJeep

Adventurer
Photog said:
Don,
Thanks for the thoughtful reply.

I completely agree with the "Build it Stout" approach. Even more so, when you already have the parts from a previous build.

It makes sense, to have the U-Joints be the weakest point in the chain. I suspect your U-Joints are still more stout than the factory Jeep Rubi U-joints, and still the weak point?

I love those 2 door Unlimited's.

Brian,
Having been out for more years than I care to remember what I know to be a fact is that if I said 3 years from now we are heading N to the Arctic Circle; somebody would show up in a Jeep with no top, no heater and street tires.

In the military we call this the 10% factor. 10%, 100% of the time just don't get it/do get it.

Since I generally am involved in the conduct of an expedition in some way I build my Jeep so I can be in the 10% of the folks that show up prepared.

Cannot tell you how many times I have led trails and everyone knew in advance the trail and its level of difficulty and I still have folks show up in box stock rigs that often cannot get out of sight of the trail head before it falters and we have to leave them behind...

Or have them leave the parking area, we drive to the trail head and head out on an ALL DAY trail and 2 hrs into it they have to turn around and go back because they 'FORGOT' to fill up with gas.
 

Jay S.

Observer
SavageSunJeep said:
D60's are far from being just over built: My current '03 Rubicon in full battle gear for Moab level rock crawling will tip the scale beyond the 5k lb mark. Then I am pulling a trailer, Canadian military M101 w/35 gal of fuel/water plus gear. Gross weight is certainly heading toward 7k lbs. You make the call!


So, let's see the trailer!!! C'mon....


:D
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,860
Messages
2,921,641
Members
233,030
Latest member
Houie
Top