Defender 110 double cab with Isuzu turbo diesel build up...

[The Rover Shop]

No, chequer plate is not a sound deadener , it's a testicular fortitude enhancement.....

 

[Lmwong]

No, chequer plate is not a sound deadener , it's a testicular fortitude enhancement.....

Ha ha...subscribed based on this! So, watcha buildin'? Ooooooo...

 

[Victory_Overland]

This rig you are building is going to be very quiet with all the sound reduction. Did you buy a bulk lot of it? Buying here thru Amazon Prime is free shipping, but still costly.

When I was working on my classic '64 chevy truck a while back, I found a good bulk order on Amazon Prime and bought two kits. When I did the math for individual kits or full vehicle kits with door and roof and blanket deadening it came out to be almost $150 cheaper for the full kits. My tin can truck was as quite as my LR3 when I was done. Of course it was about as heavy too with all of that dynamat installed...hahahaha. The blankets are great for behind any plastic panels over the dynamat sticky on the tins and excellent for insulation for non-air condition vehicles. Same as the tin roof, made a world of heat radiation difference with the roof kits although not really great for exposed interior roof aesthetics. Amazon Prime is my lifesaver, living in Hawaii I have almost a mortgage payment in shipping costs on certain parts.

 

[Kgh]

..excellent for insulation for non-air condition vehicles. Same as the tin roof, made a world of heat radiation difference with the roof kits although not really great for exposed interior roof aesthetics.

Shayne has touched upon that is this and other threads. I believe that a lot of Defender and Disco headliners fail due to thermal differences being conducive to condensation. The sound deadener also acts as thermal barrier. Some systems also offer another layer that installs over that, followed by the original headliner.

For vehicles without AC and the associated dehumidifying properties thereof, keeping moisture out is key to a clear inner windscreen. Sucks to keep a wipe rag handy while driving just because your boots were wet.

On the Defender we just bought, it is bare metal roof inside. Will be matted, insulated, and source a decent used headliner. They are fairly cheap and plentiful over here in Europe.
Either that or leave the shiny side exposed, get some color changing LED's, and have a mobile disco ball. "Free Candy" spray-painted on sides is optional.

On the Puma, one of these days I will pull door panels and headliner and finish the job.

 

[The Rover Shop]

So to avoid the little smart ******** Aussie looking under a truck and saying...oh, so it used to be blue huh...(as I have been known to do) I have gone to great extremes to make sure that the colour changes from whatever colour they were before is not evident, this also protects the metal from rust and makes it easier to clean. When the sound deadening was installed I painted over it, this seals the sound deadener particularly on the edges which limits water getting under them and causing them to lift or fall off..



Installing the brand new rear wiring harness, only the best genuine parts will do..



I will not be running this through the frame as I don't think it's a good idea to have wiring sitting inside a frame where it becomes chaffed and wet and never really gets a chance to totally dry out..it will be secured above the frame where it is totally protected from damage..

 

[The Rover Shop]

Was wondering where I was going to mount a spare tyre and then I remembered I had one of those swing away mounts laying around...should work just fine.....





Also had some of the rear fender protection checker plate and I liked how it turned out on my truck so I painted it and then sanded the highs off and installed.. It's gonna be a lot of black and white..

 

[The Rover Shop]

Installed the rear sliding window and the side glasses the other day (to be honest I just took it to my glass guy and had him do it...lol..) sat the rear assy on to see how everything matched up..lookin good. When I got the truck it had a piece of plywood for the rear bulkhead, so I bout the correct piece for it, but it really is a flimsy piece of thin metal and I don't like it.....so I'm going to make my own rear bulkhead out of some 1/4" solid aluminum plate I have from another project, this way I wouldn't be worried about something being thrown into the back of it and going through it... I also initially had a design in mind to allow me to put my motorcycle in the rear bed and it would definitely need something more rigid than the stock piece.

Sorry for the late night pics...it's too hot to work in the daytime lately...






I have these load tracks laying around so I will cut to length and add either side of the bed so that anything can be tied down easily, I will also add a drainage hole either side under the track to stop water pooling in the corners, the whole rear bed will be rhino lined when finished..

 

[The Rover Shop]

Truck had these older style tailgate lock on it minus the toggle, (pictured in above post) so I bought one of the toggles and installed it, this acts as a safety in case the inside lock handle releases.....the damage that could be done with the added spare wheel flinging it open would be horrendous, now a lock can go into this when closed effectively securing the tailgate also.
Tailgate looks out of shape only because it isn't latched in and seals aren't on yet..

 

[The Rover Shop]

Ran into a flaw with my thinking.....Swing away tyre carrier isn't designed for these style tailgates so to make it sit correctly I ordered a nylon spacer block to be made for it, this way it spreads the load out evenly across the tailgate, but majority of the load is taken by the carrier itself.

 

[The Rover Shop]

Being that the roof is going to be covered by the one-piece roll cage I'm installing I wanted something a little more hardy on the roof surface, so i took it to my painter and had it painted with a paintable rhino liner, inside and out, now I paint the white right over top of it and I finish with a textured surface. Tempted to leave it black but there will already be enough black on it without it, plus it gets as hot as balls....
Since I am already going with complete LED lights all round I was playing with the idea of adding a high mount stop light, not sure if I want to do it on the roof or just above the rear window..



Before I test fitted the roof I added sound deadening to the inner roof surface..and wanted to see why someone had sealed up the sunroof, it looks like I need to slightly modify the sunroof opening to allow it to seal better..

 

[Shanfari]

This is turning to something great, subscribed!

 

[The Rover Shop]

Test fitted the rear seats I am installing so that I could incorporate a shelf in the rear bulkhead for internal storage that I am installing, seats are a 60/40 lock and fold setup and give plenty of leg and head room.







I also had a rear bed seat laying around from another project, when we used to go camping out in the trails the kids used to loooove sitting in the back while I drove, so I figured why not, they will be protected by the roll cage and when not in use the seat tucks up into the side as it is hinged on the left side where it mounts to the bed...it easily removes completely with 3 bolts in 2 minutes..

 

[Victory_Overland]

Absolutely bada$$! Love the seat choice by the way.

Always stoked to see the next post.

 

[Jitterbug]

Coming along nicely! Do you know what make the rear bed seat is? I am looking to add some rear seats to my 90. There are a few factory ones from new 90s around but they seem to go for about $1-$1.5k, plus you have to mod the wheel box.

 

[Lmwong]

Coming along nicely! Do you know what make the rear bed seat is? I am looking to add some rear seats to my 90. There are a few factory ones from new 90s around but they seem to go for about $1-$1.5k, plus you have to mod the wheel box.

Looks like exmoor high backs middle seats. I have those. They are nice.