Desertdude's M101 trailer grows up

[Desertdude]

a few more photos

 

[Desertdude]

a nice one of the 80 and M101 along the surf at Pismo

 

[Desertdude]

I would have to put the supports on top of the outside top frame instead of butting it to the frame like you did. this will make it harder to fab a top though.

I was first going to have the frame inside and the sheet metal top go over the lid - but then that would have been a whole lotta work for very little - I decided in the end it would be better to have the lid sit on top for strength and easy of construction

a tailgate would be a cool option and I might do this on my second M101

 

[njtaco]

Are you depending on the slam-latch for any real security? If so, you may want to replace the wafer-style cam-lock with a new one using a tubular key. (Like a Kryptonite bike lock uses.) The wafer locks are too easy to pick. Also, if there are any numbers printed on the outside of either style lock, a key can be easily made by "code". We do this often at work if we don't have a good original (or any) key to work from. At the very least, grind off the numbers on the face of the lock. This goes for conventional padlocks, too.

Oh, and nice trailer. :drool:

 

[Desertdude]

Good info

not really using the lock for real security - I would not consider leaving this trailer anywhere alone for too long eepwall:

 

[Walldog]

.....I want my top to go around the perimeter so it will enclose the tailgate (Civilian Bantam trailers came from factory with tailgate cut in) to make it more theft resistant and secure. I would have to put the supports on top of the outside top frame instead of butting it to the frame like you did. this will make it harder to fab a top though.

Atavuss,
Just a thought but why not try to incorporate the stake pockets into the design. Create a base that inserts into the pockets and is fastened down semipermantly, but is inaccessible without the top being opened. Then have the top sit on the base. The base and top could be removed/added as one unit also, with doing minimum mods to the TC-3.

Wally

 

[atavuss]

Atavuss,
Just a thought but why not try to incorporate the stake pockets into the design. Create a base that inserts into the pockets and is fastened down semipermantly, but is inaccessible without the top being opened. Then have the top sit on the base. The base and top could be removed/added as one unit also, with doing minimum mods to the TC-3.

Wally

that would be super cool to use the stake pockets and not drill or do any welding to the trailer, but I can't think of how to make this work with my limited fab skills.

 

[elcoyote]

Your new tag-along toy is looking good Desertdude!:bowdown:
Nice work. One recomendation that I would make would be the addition of a Silent Hitch Pin on your Lock-n-Roll coupler as well as one on your vehicle's draw bar. They take all of the play out of the connection. We found that without them, under serious abuse (washboard) that the 5/8 hitch pin can become oval and add more looseness to the whole set up. We carry the one with the barrel lock on it (as shown) for improved security. Basically the way it works is that there is a spring loaded threaded insert that goes inside the draw bar tube that the theaded hitch pin fits into. By tightening the threaded hitch pin, the draw bar is pullled against the wall of the receiver tube and imobilized. The unit shown comes with a star washer to prevent loosening of the hitch pin but we replace it with a stainless steel split washer that performs the task better. You can see more detail on the product at ww.letsgoaero.com

 

[Desertdude]

Mucias gracias El - thanks for the link too!

 

[Willman]

Great thread!!!:clapsmile

Love your trailer!!!!

How has the lid heldup??? Any changes you would made or tips to another ExPo member in building this type of lid?

Thanks!!

:chowtime:

 

[Desertdude]

So far its held up well, including filling the inside with firewood and loading firewood logs on top during the winter

I also loaded last weekend 45 bags of 60LB post concrete inside and on top - the springs really flexed on this trip...

Only thing I would change is the slam latch - it can sometimes be a bit hard to open - it takes a certain amount of cushion between the lid and trailer to pop it open - I like the lid to seal tight against the weather strip which leaves very little space for the slam latch to pop open - I think AT has a better solution ( a clamp latch)

The gas shocks I chose are stiff so when I have the tent or a load on top the lid can still open and stay up - when the lid it empty its a bit stiff to close.

 

[ntsqd]

Yikes! I take it that those springs aren't normally like that.

Otherwise I like it! Got me thinking about the HD util trailer my grandad wants to give me b4 he has to put it in his will.

 

[Desertdude]

Ha... I never thought they could bend

I have a different suspension in mind, so I didn't really mind seeing how much it would take to flex that stiff set of leafs.

 

[FourByLand]

What other set up did you have in mind for the suspension?

 

[Desertdude]

Independent suspension. I was working on something new with a friend. But now I see AT is working on a suspension mod for the M101. I am waiting to see what magic they work out over there.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=79281&postcount=15