Different wheel diameters for Chevy 3/4 ton options?

[Erik N]

What other options do I have for wheels on my '88 Suburban 3/4 ton? I like the tall skinny 255/85/16's on there now, but there is a lack of options in that size tire.

I know there are 17's and 20's out there, will any bolt up? Are there more tire options for other wheel sizes? Thanks

 

[FellowTraveler]

IMHO 16" will have more tire selection options

16" wheels hub centric are a great choice in steel or forged aluminum. I've always have trouble finding load rating data for case aluminum wheels. I have found that steel wheels that are riveted have a higher load capacity than welded wheels, Chevy/GM riveted wheels have a code stamped at the valve stem area of wheel. Stud centric wheels must be torqued off the ground while the hub centric can be on the ground.

There are some great wheelsmiths out there that can build custom wheels.

285/75/16 (e) generally have a load rating of 3,750 lbs @ 80 psi so can be aired down safely on a heavy suburban. Some (d) load rated tires have a nice load rating at lower psi and work well w/suburban too. The 255/85/16 (e) option is great choice however finding them can be a challenge most of the time so having more than a few spares for any remote area would be best bet I carry 2 spares w/burb and add another for the trailer "my burb and trailer have same lug pattern", the 285/75/16 (e) is quite common.

 

[Erik N]

My wheels are 6x16, 8 bolt 3000# rated steel. I am familiar w/ the 16" tire options.

My question is, are there other diameter wheels that will bolt on, and if so is it worth considering to get better tall/skinny tire options?

 

[FellowTraveler]

My wheels are 6x16, 8 bolt 3000# rated steel. I am familiar w/ the 16" tire options.

My question is, are there other diameter wheels that will bolt on, and if so is it worth considering to get better tall/skinny tire options?

20" on my 1995 k2500 burb 2wd tow rig however, only low profile floater tires are available. 16.5" wheels there are no skinny tires options except for old military Michelin. Suggest going to tire rack and check out tire sizes in depth then work from there.

 

[Revco]

Newer model stock 17" Chevy & GMC 3/4-Ton wheels will bolt right up, cast aluminum, or steel.

My neighbor runs 17" late model GM Steel wheels with 35" tall tires on his '86 Chevy 2500 4x4, and my uncle runs the newer cast alum 16" stock Chevy wheels on his '72 GMC 3/4-Ton.

I briefly considered running a 17" on my Suburban, due to tire availability, but I personally don't like the aftermarket wheels out there, even the steel ones, and the newer stock GM wheels aren't my thing either, so I'll stick with the stock 16" steelies. I wish they made a 17" steel wheel that looked like the earlier 16" steel wheel.

 

[Clutch]

What type tires are you looking for, Cooper has several options in your size.

Shouldn't have to change rim size.

http://us.coopertire.com/Tires/Light-Truck.aspx

If you want to change rims to 17", Hummer H2's will bolt right up, might have mill the center out a bit...but not always the case.

I kinda like the look of your stock hubcaps though.

 

[Larry]

For what it is worth, steer clear of 2011 and later GM HD truck 8 lug wheels as they have an 8 x 180MM bolt pattern vs. the old 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern. Basically, 2011 and later HD truck wheels are not compatible with older 8 lug rigs.

There are plenty of tire sizes out there for 16” wheels although you might need to go to a wider wheel if you want to go taller than a 255/85R16. Say, a 7” or 8” wide wheel. I run 7” wide wheels with Q78 X 16 (35.5 x 10) Super Swamper TLSs for mountain trips when snow will be involved then 8” wide wheels with 315 all-terrain tires for long distance desert trips. I can’t find the perfect tire and wheel package for everything so I run two sets for the truck.

 

[Rovertrader]

The H2 wheels are the simplest solution, but they don't necessarily get many new tall/skinny options. Here is my M1028 with the H2 wheels, and I have another set on my '00 'burb, but kept the the center caps from the stock 16" alloys(no pic, sorry).

 

[LIVEanimals]

Here are some late model chevy wheels on my Sub

They are 16x6.5 with 235/75 16 on them


That Sub is gorgeous just the way it is though, I wouldn't change a thing. I actually plan on trying to make my hubcaps work with bigger tires.

 

[Clutch]

That Sub is gorgeous just the way it is though, I wouldn't change a thing.

X2.

I always thought there were plenty of tire options with a 16" rim.

 

[Erik N]

Newer model stock 17" Chevy & GMC 3/4-Ton wheels will bolt right up, cast aluminum, or steel.

My neighbor runs 17" late model GM Steel wheels with 35" tall tires on his '86 Chevy 2500 4x4

Do you know what width those 17's are? Looks like there are some decent options in the 245/75/17 range, with high load ratings.

I love the tall/skinny 255/85/16 size on my truck now, but there are only a few options (like, 6) for that tire. I want to keep the diameter around 33", those clear the stock chassis well. I would bet the H2 wheels are too wide.

 

[Clutch]

I love the tall/skinny 255/85/16 size on my truck now, but there are only a few options (like, 6) for that tire.

6 choices sounds like plenty to me. I mean, how much more do you need? A street tire, an all terrain, and a mud.


Cooper Maxx




Cooper ST & SST

 

[Erik N]

6 choices sounds like plenty to me. I mean, how much more do you need? A street tire, an all terrain, and a mud.


Of those 3, only the ST is available in a 255/85. And I like to run "E" rated tires for the added durability and peace of mind.

To my knowlwdge, the 255 list includes (and only the first 3 are E rated):
BFG KM2
Toyo MT
Toyo M-55
Cooper ST
Buckshot Mudder
Maxxis 761

I like the M-55, but they cost over $300 each. A new set would cost more than the truck is worth! And I only drive the thing 1 or 2 weeks a year.

 

[Clutch]

6 choices sounds like plenty to me. I mean, how much more do you need? A street tire, an all terrain, and a mud.


Of those 3, only the ST is available in a 255/85. And I like to run "E" rated tires for the added durability and peace of mind.

To my knowlwdge, the 255 list includes (and only the first 3 are E rated):
BFG KM2
Toyo MT
Toyo M-55
Cooper ST
Buckshot Mudder
Maxxis 761

I like the M-55, but they cost over $300 each. A new set would cost more than the truck is worth! And I only drive the thing 1 or 2 weeks a year.

Ahh my bad...thought D range would work.

Heck if you only drive it 1 or 2 weeks out of the year...go for the M-55. They'll last you 20 years!

By the time you buy new rims...cost is going to be real close.

 

[Erik N]

Heck if you only drive it 1 or 2 weeks out of the year...go for the M-55. They'll last you 20 years!

You're right! Can I borrow a couple of grand?

Why do I want "E" range? One time I borrowed my dad's 1990 Chevy 2500 4x4 to go fishing. I drove it down a very steep, very rocky, very loose hill about a 1/2 mile down to where it dead-ended at the river. Well, the actuator for the front end was inop (unknown to me) and so I was stuck literally in the middle of nowhere, at the bottom of this hill, up against the water... the only way out was up. I aired down the "E" rated rear tires (235/85/16) and literally smoked them all the way back up, throwing rocks everywhere as the truck climbed the hill at about 1/2 MPH while the throttle was floored. I had my buddy bouncing on the rear bumper until he fell off, but I kept going slowly, slowly, slowly up that hill. The tread was shredded to bits... but the carcass still held air and they got me home. My dad was like "****** happened to my tires?" and I was like "****** happened to your 4WD?" :sombrero: