Ditching the trailer idea for a Roof Basket and Hitch rack. Best Practices?

[rogue_rager]

Well after going rounds over the idea of a trailer for the Honda Element to travel and camp. Now I'm selling myself on a Roof Rack and Basket and also a Hitch with a Cargo Rack. I have about four days from touchdown back in the US until my wife, our 3 dogs, and myself begin a 14-17 day trip leading out of the South to Cape Cod and down to few beach spots in NC.

Now the question of best practices,
Roof Baskets -
1) Normal size or with extension, or almost full roof?
2) Reasonable price and recommended, what to make and options to choose?
3) Water proof bags or Plastic Bins, or duffle bags? What goes on top of people baskets and how to configure and secure?
Hitch rack
Add a Rubbermaid box or other hard storage?
Need to relocate license plate or add lights?
What options and setups work best for people?

Any knowledge is good knowledge for the unknowing.

 

[xplrn42]

I would also consider a large lockable roof box to keep your things in. That way you don't have to spend the extra $$$ on waterproof duffels and you also don't have to hassle with moving/removing the cargo box to get into the back compartment, and traveling like your planning to.....the lockable factor would be a huge bonus.

 

[unabashedpraise]

Roof rack: LanceNoell is right. The hard cased boxes are more aerodynamic and the peace of mind of a locking waterproof case is nice. I have a roof basket and I'm in the same boat looking for people's advice for waterproof, aerodynamic storage. If you do get a basket type I would recommend a fairing to limit the howling.

Hitch rack:
If you are on paved roads only the hitch rack is a good idea (kills the departure angle off road). I've used racks for everything from firewood and brush to hauling a full sized tiller. They also are more aerodynamic versus a roof rack and much cheaper. Harbor Freight has a nice looking product that is affordable. Look for a 20% off coupon online.

Be careful about over loading the rack. I don't know how many I've seen that were bent because people are not paying attention to how much weight they are putting on them. Overload them and hit a big bump... Your hitch class limits home much you can haul. A 500# rack 'load' rating may damage your class II hitch. Don't forget your gvwr.

I use large Rubbermaid containers for weather resistance that are filled with light to moderately weighted contents using ratchet straps to secure them. The heaviest items I place in the rear cargo area over the axle (except for my gas cans). I don't put valuable and easily accessible items on the rack. I have a large plastic Delta truck tool box that I can add to throw stuff in, but I've found it easier to use smaller containers.

I added some yellow reflectors to the sides and red reflectors to the rear of the rack to improve visibility. As long as the contents don't block the taillights I don't see a need to add lights to the rack.

I don't worry about the license plate issue as it's not a permanent attachment. If it worries you, just bolt the plate on the rear.

Definitely use a locking hitch pin.

Don't forget it's back there!!! Use a flag or something to remind you!

 

[mkitchen]

Cargo box

I had an Element for six years and loved it. I bought it with the Honda cargo box and it worked very well. I also put the only available hitch on that the time (a 1 1/4" slide in) and it was not the best application. I used it to haul a bicycle rack and it was very unstable. I had to run a strap from the rack to the roof rack to keep it from moving too much.
There may be better hitches available now but that one was a mess. Since the Element is a unibody, there is little back there to connect too. I have since seen quite a few Elements pulling tear drop trailers so I can only assume that there are better hitches avaiable now, but you might want to check that out.
Sounds like a fun trip though and good luck on your decision.
Mikey

 

[rogue_rager]

Roof rack: LanceNoell is right. The hard cased boxes are more aerodynamic and the peace of mind of a locking waterproof case is nice. I have a roof basket and I'm in the same boat looking for people's advice for waterproof, aerodynamic storage. If you do get a basket type I would recommend a fairing to limit the howling.

Hitch rack:
If you are on paved roads only the hitch rack is a good idea (kills the departure angle off road). I've used racks for everything from firewood and brush to hauling a full sized tiller. They also are more aerodynamic versus a roof rack and much cheaper. Harbor Freight has a nice looking product that is affordable. Look for a 20% off coupon online.

Be careful about over loading the rack. I don't know how many I've seen that were bent because people are not paying attention to how much weight they are putting on them. Overload them and hit a big bump... Your hitch class limits home much you can haul. A 500# rack 'load' rating may damage your class II hitch. Don't forget your gvwr.

I use large Rubbermaid containers for weather resistance that are filled with light to moderately weighted contents using ratchet straps to secure them. The heaviest items I place in the rear cargo area over the axle (except for my gas cans). I don't put valuable and easily accessible items on the rack. I have a large plastic Delta truck tool box that I can add to throw stuff in, but I've found it easier to use smaller containers.

I added some yellow reflectors to the sides and red reflectors to the rear of the rack to improve visibility. As long as the contents don't block the taillights I don't see a need to add lights to the rack.

I don't worry about the license plate issue as it's not a permanent attachment. If it worries you, just bolt the plate on the rear.

Definitely use a locking hitch pin.

Don't forget it's back there!!! Use a flag or something to remind you!

Good points, I have been looking at Roof Boxes also, Just the price has turned me away, but I have to really compare the price of a basket and storage trunks to the price of a decent box. The main items I want to move to the outside, is the camp setup, (tent, airmats, Stove and such) I wanted to free up interior space and have some organization, I'm a little OCD about loadouts. Box on the top and rack in the back maybe enough and still be comfortable in the car. Right now the Element can get a Class 2 or Class 3 hitch. Does not mean it can pull more but does increase rated tongue weight. And tongue weight is what I planned on basing my hitch rack load amount on, if that makes sense.

 

[SoCalMonty]

Good points, I have been looking at Roof Boxes also, Just the price has turned me away, but I have to really compare the price of a basket and storage trunks to the price of a decent box. The main items I want to move to the outside, is the camp setup, (tent, airmats, Stove and such) I wanted to free up interior space and have some organization, I'm a little OCD about loadouts. Box on the top and rack in the back maybe enough and still be comfortable in the car. Right now the Element can get a Class 2 or Class 3 hitch. Does not mean it can pull more but does increase rated tongue weight. And tongue weight is what I planned on basing my hitch rack load amount on, if that makes sense.

Get the rooftop cargo box used. I got mine for $50 on Craigslist, and it's huge. I can fit several duffels/backpacks/sleeping bags/etc in it. I typically keep soft goods up on top, as my trips are usually 4-wheeling in nature and I try to keep the heavier stuff down low.

 

[rogue_rager]

Done Deal

After much thought went ahead and ordered a Yakima Roof rack and Rocketbox Pro 14, The basket had a cool factor but really was not practical to what I needed. On I can't wait to get out of Afghanistan and get back to install my new toys. On a side note I was looking for a chuck box and found a discarded WW 2 era (according to my research) Compact field desk by a dumpster. I snatched it up loaded it with goodies and it is on its way home. My guys told that there is a ton of these things and other older storage chest at the DRMO lot on our camp. Apparently units have been getting rid of them (even in good shape) in order to get the new cooler pelican plastic type. I wish I had more than a day left here because I would go grab them. (DRMO lot is free picking for left over gear).

 

[rogue_rager]

Here is the box, mine no guts but has been around the world a couple of times (currently Afghanistan and who knows where else) It has worn leather handles and lots of Names on it. I want to redo it and paint for chuck box. But I'm glad to rescue it from a destroyed fate.

 

[SoCalMonty]

I went to AIT in Alabama...just noticed your location. Haha! I was at Redstone Arsenal for a while.

 

[rogue_rager]

I went to AIT in Alabama...just noticed your location. Haha! I was at Redstone Arsenal for a while.

Redstone is still there as a Refit and Weapons Arsenal not really any military but all DOD techs, some my guys work there. Right now they going thru furloughs and layoffs. Fort McClellan is a fraction of its size, the base was De-milled, sold off and the National Guard bought a piece of it for a training center along with Pelham Range. I spent a good amount of time tromping around there last couple of years.

 

[unabashedpraise]

View attachment 158200

Here is the box, mine no guts but has been around the world a couple of times (currently Afghanistan and who knows where else) It has worn leather handles and lots of Names on it. I want to redo it and paint for chuck box. But I'm glad to rescue it from a destroyed fate.

Awesome, very cool find. Have a safe trip home.

 

[tibfibber]

building a cargo rack on a Tiger

Just posted a thread detailing the build we did yesterday of a rear carrier for a Provan Astro Tiger here : http://www.southbayriders.com/forums/threads/131302/

Here are a few pictures of what we did:

 

[madmax718]

Bike hitch racks tend to come with a nut and bolt style- not a hitch pin. It minimizes the wobble factor. The hitch should not wobble at all.

You can cut and weld a hitch rack higher, for better departure angle. Those racks hit all the time on stuff- including driveways! The element has a big tail gate though, so you may have to make sure it doesn't make contact. 1.25" hitches have very low tongue weight. I'd deduct at least 25% from wahtever it says is the limit. The hitch rack puts an absurd amount of leverage. I'd get a roof aero box, and a hitch rack. You can also get the aero pack, but it has no security- just mounts as a hump.

 

[Honu]

How big are your dogs ? Do they travel in crates ?

Just figuring room inside

I would go for a large yakima or thule box if I were you and wanted easy quick access and funds were available
BUT !
The other thing is gear size ?
Before spending say $1000 on rack system thule box rear rack think of trying to fit it inside

Maybe spending that in smaller nicer gear
Chairs like the helinox over regular camp chairs
Nemo air pads over self inflating
Those things alone can save quite a bit of bulky space
GSI or MSR mess kit type setup that nests all your cook and plates etc...

Since space is tall inside your rig you might have to come up with a basic shelf to keep bottom stuff from crushing
Could be very simple piece of wood across with something under it ?

If you can resupply along the way every few days at grocery stores dont pack all your food with you etc..

Not sure what your camp list is ?
If staying in parks they have tables and such so even one small extra table should be enough
Water wise just a single 5 gallon should be fine ?

When we camp in parks we can bring less
When we go somewhere for even 3 nights 4 days water supply for 4 and dog is much more concern

We did a 2 week trip but it was mostly in parks and was nice cause water power food was everywhere along the way
Also we did not need a eat prep table just use the park picnic ones cooking pick up propane when we get low etc..

Just some thoughts