diy riveted aluminum trailer frame questions

[juni777]

Hi, i'm building a riveted aluminum trailer, i've already got the chassis and alot of aluminum 2045 sheets for the walls, and i'm planning the subfloor and frame currently, i'm planning on doing something similar to the first picture (from ) and i'm going to be building a sort of cube shape first out of the alum. angle, then adding in the beams for reinforcement and door/window perimeters out of a smaller square tubing, reinforced with tig welds and the brackets on the corners. I've found some 20' lengths of aluminum angle on facebook and i just wanted to ask if it would be strong/thick enough for this plan

here are the measurements of my planned trailer (78"x156"x78", roughly planned 1500-2500 dry weight)

here are the measurements of the angle
(6061, 2"x2"x1/4")
this is my first diy trailer, and i just wanted to know if it was too thick/ not thick enough,

also, if anyone has a good place to buy marine ply for a subfloor near colorado, it would be very much appreciated.

 

[rruff]

If 1/8" steel would work fine there, then 1/4" 6061 should be, and you'd save some weight. The 6061 will be a little less stiff, though. If you want more stiffness, then it's best to have longer legs.

Whether it's strong enough depends on the rest your structure, but 1/4" Al isn't wimpy material.

Good luck!

 

[Alloy]

The video is a demonstrates what not to do with alumiun.

Never weld across the face (longitudinal only) of sturctural aluminum. It doesn't matter how thick the gussets are or the number of rivet because the aluminum will crack next to the welds

Everywhere a steel (not stainless) wire brush is used will rust (blush) because particles of steel embed in the aluminum. Nothing can be done to stop it.

1/4" is overkill. If the tube is 1/8" then you can use 1/8" - 3/16". It's all dependent on the OA design.

2045 has horrible corrosion resisance so it wouldn't be my choice

 

[Ozarker]

I received my structural engineering, PE, degree in a cereal box in 1965, and had concerns of cracking mentioned above.

I think I'd use that 3M bonding tape between joints to be riveted.

The sum of all parts will be stronger.

Do you really need marine ply ? No, IMO, get a good grade of ply and a thin coat of glass over it will last longer than your kids will.

 

[simple]

The gussets will present a challenge for skinning over. I think this style of construction is cool but would do a few things differently.

Welded joints for the tubes and like mentioned, I'd use 3M tape for the skins on the outside. They make a specific model for this exact application.

I'd only use vertical "studs" lack of a better word at the corners, windows and vertical panel seams. Every else I'd use triangles to save weight and material and add rigidity. I'd probably use a tall rectangular profile in the area where the nose is a cantilevered beam.

 

[PathNotTaken]

The angle you attached appears to be architectural angle, not structural. I would recommend getting structural 6061 since it has the radius bend.

As for the tig welded reinforcements, I would not weld them. your HAZ near the weld loses a lot for strength. I would just use more rivets if you're already constructing the rest out of that.

 

[rruff]

The angle you attached appears to be architectural angle, not structural. I would recommend getting structural 6061 since it has the radius bend.

I thought so too, but looked up 6061-T6 angle and it appears some do not have a radius. Usually the square edged ones are 6063.

 

[PathNotTaken]

I thought so too, but looked up 6061-T6 angle and it appears some do not have a radius. Usually the square edged ones are 6063.

Interesting, I’ve never seen that. I’d still get radius angle though for the strength. Much stronger.


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