EarthCruiser Overland Vehicles

Bandicoot

Adventurer
Q 1: cleaning the top of the EC. I can easily stand on the top of the bullbar or the scrub bar or sit or stand on the roof rack and use a hose to clean off the roof. I also carry a short-length soft-bristle "broom" as this is by far the quickest and best way to clean all the outside of the EC including the "high" areas on the side walls and rear. However, it is surprising how FEW places will allow you to clean your vehicle, so while I can get drinking water for the tanks "fairly" easily (not as easily as fuel), I can probably only actually clean the vehicle twice a year, given we are rarely in big cities anyhow. Hence the potential for dusty solar panels.
Q 2: the DC outlet from these generators is (IMO) a gimmick. The DC outlet is 8 amps and a strict 12 volts, whereas you need at least 13.5 volts to charge 12 volt batteries (to "push" the volts uphill against the battery charge). If you were absolutely desperate (e.g. your AC battery charger had died and all your batteries too flat to start the engine), then I guess you would use that outlet to get the batteries up to somewhere close to 12 volts and perhaps get the engine running. Bear in mind the 40 amp battery charger does in fact charge at 40 amps continuous (I've measured it several times).
I should also clarify an earlier comment I made. The Yamaha EF1000iS genny is rated at 1000 volt-amp, but that is the peak output. The continuous rating is 900 volt-amp or 800 watts at a unity power factor or 640 watts at a more typical power factor of 0.8 (see below). (NOTE: all generators seem do this "fiddle" to confuse the buyer; they cannot operate at their 'rated' load other than very briefly and in any event, their rated load is given in volt-amps, not watts, which is a useless rating for almost everything). The Xantrex multi-voltage, multi-frequency 40 amp charger I use is power-factor corrected to unity, but operates at 80% efficiency. For charging, it puts out around 14.5 volts (so 580 watts AC consumption). So I need a generator that can provide at least 600 watts (say) to be able to power a 40 amp charger. So this model Yammy (lightweight and small) is a perfect match to the Xantrex charger which in turns is a more-or-less perfect match to the twin 115 A-hr Fullriver AGM batteries I use.
rick
Extract from Yammy manual:
EF1000iW power.JPG

Extract from Xantrex battery charger manual
Xantrex.JPG
 

Michelle@EarthCruiser

Supporting Sponsor
I think its important to note that specs between Aus and US ECs differ slightly. On US built EarthCruisers, we now offer 2 x 125 watt solar panels as standard as well as 2 x 270 amphr Mastervolt AGM house batteries. Adding an additional 125 w solar panel (which is mandatory for our 12 v AC option) is very easy. The new solar panels that we use (the company that made the old ones like on Rick's is now gone) are very efficient, work well in low light and are just as indestructible. Howard and his wife would probably have some pretty good information regarding solar/battery/power usage on the new US models as they are probably one of our more 'power users' here in the US.

Michelle
 

Howard70

Adventurer
US EC Electrical Capacity/Charging

EarthCruiser Colleagues:

Michelle mentioned the energy-hog status of Prima Terra, one of the early left hand drive (LHD) EarthCruisers. The short answer is we do not need any charging source other than solar (we don't use the alternator to charge the house batteries although we can if we need it).

Longer answer:
We have the stock LHD battery configuration (540 amp/hours house, 200 amp/hours truck). We asked for an increase in the solar configuration - we run three 140 watt panels (420 watts total) to increase performance on cloudy, shorter winter days or when parked in partial shade. We have the now-stock 130L refrigerator with the voltage-sensitive operating setting (more on this later), mostly stock LED lighting (we added two lights in the cab and an additional outdoor flood light), the regular inverter, etc. As Bandicoot points out above, the optimal trade-off for battery life / charging time in AGM batteries seems to be around 50% of amp/hour capacity. Thus we have approximately 270 amp hours of regularly-useable capacity. So far our greatest overnight (12 hour) consumption has been 50 amp/hours which was replenished via the solar charging system by 2 hours after "solar noon" the following day. Usually the overnight consumption is in the 20 - 30 amp hour range. I've tried monitoring 24 hour consumption, but the data logger I'm using only tracks total amps from the solar charger so I can't measure consumption when the panels are charging the house batteries. Basically the consumption during daylight seems moot as the panels easily power whatever we do during the day while recharging the debt from the night before. I hope to get a better estimate of the 24 hour consumption by taking the panels offline until the batteries get down to 50% and then timing a full recharge.

The greatest overall consumption (24 hour total) for us is most likely refrigeration. The refrigeration system in the LHD EarthCruisers greatly reduces the use of stored energy via its voltage-sensitive operation. Warning - stop here if details bore you! The refrigerator senses the voltage / charge state of the battery and alters its operation accordingly. When the batteries are charging (thus there is energy available from the charging source) the compressor operates and cools the freezer portion of the refrigerator even if the temperature of the freezer is below freezing. When the battery voltage drops the compressor stops. If the refrigerator (not the freezer) begins to warm, a small fan blows air across the "super cooled" freezer to cool the refrigerator. The compressor remains off until the freezer warms up (still below freezing) and then the compressor will turn on and use stored energy to keep the system cool. We've found that keeping the freezer completely full and the refrigerator mostly full increases the storage of "cold" and greatly reduces the time the compressor runs from stored energy. Basically the system stores "cold" by running more than necessary when there is excess energy available. It reminds me of the cold plate systems common on boats, but in this case the "cold plate" is the contents of the freezer.
So the total energy required for refrigeration might be the same as for a conventional system, but the use of stored energy (from your batteries) is much less. The voltage sensitive operation of the refrigerator can be turned off in favor of a traditional thermostat setting if you wish, but we've never used the manual setting.

Why don't we regularly use the alternator to supplement the solar charging? We think that AGM batteries are pretty particular in regards to their charge characteristics and the alternator output doesn't appear optimal for getting the longest life out of the batteries. On the other hand, the solar charge controller can be configured (and temperature corrected) for the exact characteristics of the AGM batteries perhaps providing longer life. As long as the solar system has sufficient output to regularly fully recharge the batteries we keep the alternator out of the system. I realize that others may feel this is incorrect so I don't mean to tell anyone how to charge their batteries - I'm only explaining our system!

Howard
 

gait

Explorer
have you tried one of the small model aircraft wattmeters Howard.
Here's one example, there are a couple of styles. Nifty little things that work well with RVs.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RC-GT-Po...Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item2c65705c13

A trick for alternator charging is either a battery to battery charger (basically takes alternator output at vehicle battery and provides charger output to AGMs) or alternator regulator. Before it died (after 4+ years) I used to entertain myself watching the relative input (current) to battery from solar and B2B change as I drove in and out of shade.

Another trick is to run the alternator in parallel with the solar input to the battery. The solar regulator will attempt to control the voltage, if lucky (as I am sometimes) it does a better job than the alternator regulator.

Having said all that I'm like Howard and rarely need any input beyond solar.
 

Bandicoot

Adventurer
I was PM'd about the sand filter in the photos. Here it is. I've had it for 10 years or more and still "good as gold". Must be good quality s/s.
sand filter pic 1.JPGsand filter pic 2.JPG
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Despite my best efforts I have not been able to identify a manufacturer or supplier for the above type of filter.
Should anyone be able to give further information on this filter, please share that knowledge.
 

gary and jane

New member
sand filter

my mate paul martin was the manufacturer but i know he stoped making them,but he may have some lying around.his contact details are Ph0412013122.Good luck.
 

Gatsma

Adventurer
I wonder how difficult it would be to make something as effective as that. It does not APPEAR too complicated, but appearances CAN fool us all....
On edit, check out the thread in this forum titled "Sand Filter" by Skifreak. It appears there is something very much like this available.
 
Last edited:

Smorg

New member
Hi guys. Glind, the people who make heat exchangers have something similar on their website, they call it a sand spear.
Cheers,
Steve.
 

Smorg

New member
Thanks . Yeah serial lurker, I realized that about 30 seconds later when i got to to the new thread. Too late to go back then though !
Steve
 

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