Edgestar Fridge Modifications Thread

Evil Patrick

New member
I'll know for sure this weekend.

Use engineering and formulas, instead of guts and guesses.

Current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W), divided by the voltage V in volts (V):
I(A) = P(W) / V(V)

If your panel is 5W at 12V, then you have less than ½ of an Amp of power coming out of it.

The EdgeStar uses about 3A while running. 3A used. Less than ½ an Amp restored. Waa waaa…

The engineering and formulas definitively answer the question.
 

ChadHahn

Adventurer
What I did is get a Goal Zero Yeti 400 battery pack. I plugged that into the car and the fridge into the Yeti. When I'm driving, the car charges the Yeti. When I'm parked the Goal Zero has enough power to run the fridge for two days or so.

Chad
 

RubiconGeoff

Adventurer
My Edgestar's hinges have been slowly disintegrating over the last year. Something's up with that plastic which makes it get brittle and fractured as it ages. One of them finally gave up the ghost on my last trip. Here's the hinge "down":

hinge1.JPG

And here's the remnants of the fractured plastic when I rotated the hinge "up":

hinge2.JPG

I was happy to find these stainless steel hinges designed specifically for these freezer/fridges, pre-drilled and ready to install. What a great upgrade!

hinge3.JPG

I also ordered a pair of these stainless steel handles. I'm surprised the original plastic handles have held up so far, but I'm not interested in one of them breaking, allowing the cooler to drop and get smashed on the ground. Cheap insurance, and much more comfortable in the hand.
 
Last edited:

dmwhiteman

Observer
Been reading through this thread and really wanting to make this investment as the igloo electric cooler I use is draining my dual batteries after about 3 days. Am I reading this right? The fridge draws 4.5 amps. That is when it's cooling correct? Not a constant draw?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
^^
Correct.

I tested mine in the past on a meter, it's average current draw (while cycling) was a hair under 1.9 amps in an 80°F ambient. Of course it's draw will go waaay up or waayyy down from that as the temperature changes (on a 100°F day I would expect close to a 3-amp average.. on a cool night high up in the mountains it might not cycle on at all).
 

brushogger

Explorer
My Edgestar's hinges have been slowly disintegrating over the last year. Something's up with that plastic which makes it get brittle and fractured as it ages. One of them finally gave up the ghost on my last trip. Here's the hinge "down":

View attachment 350088

And here's the remnants of the fractured plastic when I rotated the hinge "up":

View attachment 350091

I was happy to find these stainless steel hinges designed specifically for these freezer/fridges, pre-drilled and ready to install. What a great upgrade!

View attachment 350092

I also ordered a pair of these stainless steel handles. I'm surprised the original plastic handles have held up so far, but I'm not interested in one of them breaking, allowing the cooler to drop and get smashed on the ground. Cheap insurance, and much more comfortable in the hand.

Thanks for finding these. Just ordered new SS handles and hinges.
 

meental

Observer
Been reading through this thread and really wanting to make this investment as the igloo electric cooler I use is draining my dual batteries after about 3 days. Am I reading this right? The fridge draws 4.5 amps. That is when it's cooling correct? Not a constant draw?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
It does draw around 4-5 amps when the compressor is running, but the compressor cycles on and off depending on outside temp and what temperature you have the fridge set to. I think 2-3ah is a good average for mine during the day in the desert.

I've found covering the fridge with my reflective windshield shade and keeping the windows cracked whenever the vehicle is parked keeps the interior temps and battery usage lower.

Sent from my RTT while stargazing
 

ROKTAXI

Adventurer
....I also eliminated about 4+ ft. of excess 16g wire as well as upgraded it all to 10g. I knew the 5w solar panel was pretty wimpy but I already had it so any extra bit of power may help. I'll know for sure this weekend.

Well, I ended up getting a new (auxiliary) deep cycle marine / rv battery (group 24, $80) and BINGO. Although the other battery tested good, I didn't have much faith in the guy testing it as he was fumbling with the testing unit not really knowing how to use it. So now it's been running on about 7 hours and the new battery is still showing 12.3 volts in 93* temps in the garage. I have the frig temp set @ 33* and has been cycling like it should. I also abandoned the idea of 10g wire and ended up going with the Edgestar OEM cable but wired it direct to the battery via a fuse holder. I've also ordered a 12v box fan to mount on the vent slats on frig to help with air circulation.
 

dfinn

Adventurer
These do not have a voltage cutoff, correct?

It seems like the general consensus is that these work pretty well and are reliable but have low quality hinges and handles? Anyone regret buying?
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
It would be net if something like this could be modded to work on other models.
http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-FRIDGE-REMOTE-MONITOR-10900026-P22863.aspx

This $10 wireless thermometer from WalMart is what I use. The display fits in the sunglasses holder in my 4Runner. I use rechargeable Eneloop batteries in the display and lithiums in the sensor.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-Digital-Wireless-Thermometer-00380/16888916

d961e80a-e9b7-4df7-8869-0055022e1cc2_1.cae11fb90de1f4b0db4e39441354175b.jpeg
 

Beavertonite

New member
Does anyone know the gauge of the wire for the Edgestar fridge? I bought a unit used (43qt) and the AC plug is good (computer monitor power cable) and the DC plug is bad. I'd like to replace the cigarette lighter with another one as I want to keep it standard for use in other vehicles instead just mine. Calling Edgestar (866-975-4846) wasn't helpful as the guy tried to give me a support number to Edgestar which I had just called.
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
Well, I ended up getting a new (auxiliary) deep cycle marine / rv battery (group 24, $80) and BINGO. Although the other battery tested good, I didn't have much faith in the guy testing it as he was fumbling with the testing unit not really knowing how to use it. So now it's been running on about 7 hours and the new battery is still showing 12.3 volts in 93* temps in the garage. I have the frig temp set @ 33* and has been cycling like it should. I also abandoned the idea of 10g wire and ended up going with the Edgestar OEM cable but wired it direct to the battery via a fuse holder. I've also ordered a 12v box fan to mount on the vent slats on frig to help with air circulation.

OK, well, that's a start for you, but as a head's up, 12.3v should be the time you start thinking about disconnecting the fridge if you don't want to damage the battery.

Here's your basic State of Charge graph:

odyssey_battery_01-vi.png


12.3v is 50-55%. Normally, you don't want to discharge a battery past 50% (even a deep cycle), if you can help it. Put that battery on a good charger and get it back to 100% before you connect the load again.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
These do not have a voltage cutoff, correct?

It seems like the general consensus is that these work pretty well and are reliable but have low quality hinges and handles? Anyone regret buying?

Yes, they have a low-voltage cutoff. New (metal) handles & hinges from the local Home Depot or Lowe's and it's definitely a solid fridge (I also swapped out the DC jack for a pigtail lead).
Mine has worked great for 6 years now.

7029594007_large.jpg


Since then, these have become available (though are also more $$$ than if you DIY with parts from a home store):
http://ambientstores.com/whynter-fm-metal-freezer-hinge-part/
http://ambientstores.com/set-of-whynter-fm-stainless-steel-handle-for-fm-45g-fm-65g-fm-85g-fm-62dz/


Does anyone know the gauge of the wire for the Edgestar fridge? I bought a unit used (43qt) and the AC plug is good (computer monitor power cable) and the DC plug is bad. I'd like to replace the cigarette lighter with another one as I want to keep it standard for use in other vehicles instead just mine. Calling Edgestar (866-975-4846) wasn't helpful as the guy tried to give me a support number to Edgestar which I had just called.

I seem to recall the OE cord was #14 or maybe even #16 AWG.
I constructed my own cord using some #12 AWG landscape lighting cord and a much heavier-duty cig-lighter plug.
 

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