Emissions help please

[masterwacker]

This is related to my 93 p/u in my signature. I have now failed emissions testing 6 times in almost two weeks. Here are my test results from the tests.

HC (Limit 174) CO (Limit 1.96) NO (Limit 1121.0) CO2(no limit)

T1 195.7 .52 654.4 14.3
T2 196.2 .52 638.2 14.28
T3 203.7 .48 628.7 14.31
T4 209.6 .53 593.1 14.25
T5 205.5 .51 651.2 14.15
t6 219.7 .54 679.2 14.21

Test 1 - 3 were all done on the same day Feb 28
Test 4 March 8
Test 5 March 9
Test 6 March 10

Here is what I have done so far

Prior Test 1 - let truck run (parked) for about half an hour. Then drove it for about 20 minutes prior to test

After Test 1 / Prior to Test 2 - ran a seafoam style cleaner through motor, which caused a big cloud of smoke. Then did an oil change. Then drove it for about half an hour, exhaust smelled like gas then went to get tested.

After Test 2 - drove the piss out of the truck, about 200 miles then went to get tested and put dry gas in the tank.

After Test 3 / Prior to Test 4 - Ordered an EGR valve. When it came in installed it and then drove for about 150 miles. Then went to get tested.

After Test 4 - Me and two other people started going over the engine and found a big leak in the intake after the AFM before the intake manifold. I fixed that, re-calibrated computer and noticed a difference in power and how it ran. Ran some more cleaner through the motor and some more smoke came out. Not as much as before. Exhaust still smelled a little like gas

After Test 5 - The same two other people and me went over the motor again and found that the EGR modulator filter was rock solid so we borrowed one from another vehicle. Then we noticed that the truck smelled a lot like gas so we checked the charcoal canister. It was clogged. We blew that out and were eventually able to get air to pass through it. We also checked my plugs. Nothing abnormal other than they were a little white. The air filter was also filthy so I cleaned it (K/N drop in filter). The next day I re-calibrated the computer started the motor and I had white smoke all over the place. I filled it up with 92 octane and I ended up driving it for almost 3 hours between 70 and 75, about 200 miles. I have a lot more power, engine runs smoother, motor idles better, and I have no gas smell in exhaust. Next morning I drive to work (20 minute drive at 35 mph) and when I get there I notice that my exhaust smells like gas again a little bit.

After Test 6 - Failed again with the highest yet in HC. Now I am pissed. Yep my exhaust smells like gas again, what the f#$&??!!!??!!. I order a new charcoal canister and EGR modulator from Toyota.

Here is some more info about my truck:
- my truck has 228,000 miles on it
- 9 months ago replaced my cat and muffler with magnaflow free flow cat and flowmaster 40 muffler and went to 2.25 pipe
- 3 months ago I did a plug, wire, dist cap, and rotor replacement.
- air filter cleaned two days ago.
- fuel pump replaced two years ago.
- same fuel filter as when i bought it 2.5 years ago. I tried to change it, but lines are frozen to filter. Haven't gotten around to dealing with it yet.
- radiator replaced two years ago
- oil change, I run synthetic
- when warm engine idles about rought 500 rpm.
- HG done at 98,000 miles
- I have never changed O2 sensor
- My check engine light is it not on and the bulb does work. I checked.
- I have not bothered to check for codes since above is not on
- I have a snorkel on it and the fan at the e-check does not point at the snorkel
- motor used to run a less than half on the temp gauge. Noticed about 4 -5 months ago now at half
- radiator full and clean
- no oil leaks or drips. I have placed cardboard under it numerous times.
- I do need a quart of oil about once a month and I think that is due to my oil pan seal leaking a little. I dont drop oil but there is the flow by from air on the bottom end which I think is slipping by a little when I am driving
- I can take off my oil fill cap and I engine falters a little, but not much. before I found the intake leak the motor would almost die or die.
- I have removed the ISR and replaced intake tube with stock since boots were leaking.


Here is the kicker I am now driving on expired tags, my birthday was in February, and I need all the help and insight I can get. Does anybody have any ideas, experience, or thoughts that would help me I? could use all the help I can get at this point

 

[Grim Reaper]

22RE?

Assuming this is a FI motor here is my ideas.

EGR issues. Sounds like the same problem my 86 had. Does it run a little rough and buck as it accelerates and a little bit at steady cruise?
Pull the hose off the EGR and see how it drives.

If that makes it run better then whats happening is too much EGR. You can tell because the NOX is low (should be up around 1000-1100) and HC is up. As the engine leans the NOX rises and HC goes down. The EGR dilutes the O2 so it basically runs rich and cold (lower NOX).

New control doohickey that you ordered will probably fix it.

How close do the look when they do your tests? I actually ran mine through with the EGR plugged (2 years running) and it passed the sniffer and here they don't even lift the hood as long as it doesn't have a light has a cat and blows clean they let it go. If they lift the hood and inspect vacuum lines then you need to make sure it is hooked up.

The other possibility is it really is rich from either too much fuel pressure or the cold start injector is leaking or the timer has it on.

What thermostat in it? Factory is 195. If you have too low of Thermostat it will not go into closed loop and run rich or possibly fire the cold start.

22R's have a temp sensor on the water neck. If it sees the engine running hot it will increase the pulse width of the injectors to cool it down (rich =cool). Now it is suppose to be wired through the 4wd so that feature only works when in 4wd. Is the 4wd indicator working? If so then you can probably rule that out.

Before spending any more money Check the TPS for adjustment. Meter out the AFM. The AFM has an ambient air temp sensor in it that can also throw a curve ball. If it says to the ECM that the temp is lower then it is the ECM will think the air density is up and run it rich. K&N's are know to oil them down and attract micro fie dust to them causing them to be insulated and lazy. Clean it with spray contact cleaner. Avoid getting the cleaner in the AFM workings as it may work the grease out.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=1

That's a service manual for a Supra. The 7M-GE (non turbo) FI is very similar to the 22RE. The test values and procedures for the temp senders, TPS, AFM are the same as the 22RE. I would run through the Trouble shooting guide for ideas. Somewhere on Pirate4x4.com there is a link to a couple FSM's in PDF for the trucks.