Energy efficient fridge. Cheap?

verdesardog

Explorer
The bottom line is how much power it draws. there is no mention of that in the article. A good portable fridge draws about 2 amps when running and it should run less then 50% of the time for a 40 degree internal temp.
 

Altide8

New member
Does anyone know how to wire something like this up to a smaller fridge. I just need a more basic explanation
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
The advantage to this setup, is that the inverter is shut off except when needed.

Without doing this mod, the thermostat circuit draws 120v continuously, preventing the inverter from dropping down into standby mode (and a cheap inverter might not even have a standby mode).

Thus, the only actual power savings, is whatever the inverter itself consumes while switched on. The fridge itself doesn't consume any less power (well...the led light does, but not enough to matter).

According to this...

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-1000W...01-20&linkId=052b882f0750258d2b4d9a712420ef61

...the inverter itself draws .6 - .8 amps per hour, so that would be 15 - 20 amp*hours per day in power savings.

So...um...kinda/sorta worth doing I guess. Depends. In a van getting most of its power from solar, 20ah/day would be a big deal. But then, just getting the 35ah/day to run the fridge with the mod might be a big deal.


As for doing the same mod to some other fridge, I suppose it could be done, but you'd have to study the schematic and guts of that fridge to figure out if it could be done, and exactly how to do it.

Doing it to a smaller fridge might not be worth bothering, the dorm size fridges are notoriously inefficient.


He mentions that the fridge he's using wouldn't benefit from extra insulation due to the way the compressor and coils are mounted. Using a different fridge, packed with extra insulation around it, and some low-power computer fans zip tied to the coils might save just as much power by reducing compressor run time.



Modding a chest-type (top loader) freezer, to run at a slightly higher temp so it can serve as a fridge, is a pretty common old school setup popular with the off-grid solar crowd because it's very power efficient.


The mod in the OP looks like a fun little hack, but despite the guy's anecdotal evidence, I wouldn't count on longevity. Especially using wirenuts. :)

And the doors need to be modded as well to keep them from popping open while under weigh.


He says 150 bucks, but that doesn't include the inverter, which is another 80. So figure 250. For that price, I'd rather add more solar, buy a small generator and a good battery charger, or just buy a 12v fridge.
 
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1Louder

Explorer
If you can't understand what is going on with that hack via the lengthy write-up I would stick with buying a meant to be run on 12volt fridge. Otherwise you are liable to burn your vehicle up with an electrical fire. Hacks can be great if you truly understand what is going on, how to implement them, and the claimed benefits. Plenty of budget 12 volts fridges out there. Yes, the cheaper one are less energy efficient but you could always counter that with a good solar setup of at least 100 watts.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
...the inverter itself draws .6 - .8 amps per hour, so that would be 15 - 20 amp*hours per day in power savings.

Whoops. My bad. I forgot to factor in the duty cycle; whenever the fridge is running, the inverter is not shut off, so no power savings there.

The guy says his runs like 20 minutes per hour, so that'd be a 35% duty cycle.

So the actual power savings would be more like 10 - 13 amp*hours per day, not the 15 - 20 I originally estimated.

Which makes it even less worth the hassle.
 

murrayargo

New member
Now I see that "hack" on big screen. Maybe fun to do, its sort of dumb in execution.

Aside from its interior light wont work when the inverter is not running...
Simply add to the fridge a thermostat along the lines if this,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0142BMM8K?psc=1 then set the 'fridge thermostat as cold as it will allow.
That 'aux thermostat will switch on/off the inverter as needed.

If mainspower comes available, Just plug into that & operate as originally intended.
Unlike the original Hack example, Whilst on mains, No DC control power is needed.

For good measure, verify the 'fridge will reliably operate from the chosen inverter.
I expect its compressor uses an induction motor. A true sinewave inverter should be chosen.

So you would simply connect the aux thermostat to the inverter, which will switch it on and off? Seems like a much more logical option.


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LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
When an Edgestar 63 is under $300 shipped why would you even consider the thread option also dont overlook with this mod no more warranty.
Top load with baskets is way better for an off road fridge IMO.
 

murrayargo

New member
When an Edgestar 63 is under $300 shipped why would you even consider the thread option also dont overlook with this mod no more warranty.
Top load with baskets is way better for an off road fridge IMO.

Where can you get an edgestar 63 for under $300??


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LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
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Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Edgestar looks just like Whynter with a different label. These guys sell new scratch and dent "open box" or "no box" Whynter, cheap:

Mega Appliances
Tel. 562.926.5500

Santa Fe Springs:
14115 Pontlavoy Ave
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Store Hour: Monday ~ Saturday: 9AM~5 PM
Sunday: Closed or By appointment

They popped up in the CraigsList deals thread and I got a pair of Whynter 45s for $237.50 each, this week. They had a bunch of Whynters on the floor, including at least one 63 marked at $300. They also include a 3-month warranty.
 

murrayargo

New member
Edgestar looks just like Whynter with a different label. These guys sell new scratch and dent "open box" or "no box" Whynter, cheap:



They popped up in the CraigsList deals thread and I got a pair of Whynter 45s for $237.50 each, this week. They had a bunch of Whynters on the floor, including at least one 63 marked at $300. They also include a 3-month warranty.

Know if they ship? I'm in Alabama


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