My '91 Suburban needs an engine. The truck won't fit in the garage and I've tried to the point of frustration to try and rent some sort of storage where I can do the work. Most storage places absolutely forbid working on vehicles on the property. This leaves me with the unpleasant task of doing the engine swap in the driveway. It's an asphalt driveway with a bit of a slope to it. The parking brake is INOPERABLE on the truck and next on the list of things to fix after the engine. After having a close call with jacking up a vehicle a couple decades ago that I hate even thinking about, I won't compromise on safety. How can I do this without ending up as a greasy spot in my driveway? Picture of the truck and the offending driveway. Thanks.
Engine swap and sloped driveway?
- Thread starter trbon8r
- Start date
Eaglefreek
Eagleless
Maybe you can make some sort of ramp with stacked 2x8's for the rear wheels to level it out and with a stop to keep it from rolling back? Something like this, but with a better rear stop. I would try to fix the parking brake first, though.
thethePete
Explorer
Block the wheels. 4x4s on all 4 corners will be enough, or some 6x6 on either side of both rear tires. You should chock the wheels when you jack it up anyway, technically speaking. If you want, you could spring for some wheel chocks, but ones sufficient to hold that rig would be fairly expensive.
You can make the slope work to your advantage. Point it nose down and it'll make extracting the engine a little easier for you.
You can make the slope work to your advantage. Point it nose down and it'll make extracting the engine a little easier for you.
rayra
Expedition Leader
It isn't the vehicle rolling that's the trouble, it's controlling the cherry picker while trying to get an engine in and out.
A. FIX THE PARKING BRAKE FIRST, regardless.
II.) if you were willing to rent a storage place for the swap then spend $200 on the smallest / shortest set of junkyard rims and tires that will fit and put it in your garage.
A. FIX THE PARKING BRAKE FIRST, regardless.
II.) if you were willing to rent a storage place for the swap then spend $200 on the smallest / shortest set of junkyard rims and tires that will fit and put it in your garage.
I Leak Oil
Expedition Leader
I usually just rent a set of square wheels. No issues...:elkgrin:
M35A2
Tinkerer
If you chock the truck it can't roll. I would never trust a parking brake in any case. Chock both rear wheels and make sure the chocks can't slip.
You can also jack the rear of the truck on jack stands - with wood under the stands so they don't sink into the asphalt - just jack it up enough given the slope.
Then, lower the truck in the front. Remove the front wheels and get her to kneel. That will give you a better angle for installing the new motor.
With the front wheels removed and the front lower on stands (or even resting directly on cribbing) and the rear wheels chocked (and possibly also on jack stands at the rear) she is not going anywhere.
Rolling the cherry picker downhill is not a problem if you are careful:
- Keep the motor as low as you can at all times. Only raise it as you get up to the truck and need to get it in.
- Watch the momentum of the swinging motor. If the motor swings out just right the load can try to get away from you. Time your moves.
- Add a sideways strap to keep the motor from swinging out, away from the cherry picker, as you head downhill.
- Have a helper standing by with a long length of wood that can be jammed under the wheels of the cherry picker if you need to stop it in a hurry.
- Depending on how smooth the driveway, you might want to only travel a few inches at a time. In any case do not let the entire assembly catch a head of steam rolling downhill.
- If you are working by yourself, or even if not, place a long strip of wood on the ground ahead of the cherry picker so it can only move so far forward without being stopped. Place the wood close enough such that even if the cherry picker gets away from you it will not have anough momentum to cause a problem.
- Don't be afraid of the load; just be aware of the forces involved and think one step ahead of what they could conspire.
You can also jack the rear of the truck on jack stands - with wood under the stands so they don't sink into the asphalt - just jack it up enough given the slope.
Then, lower the truck in the front. Remove the front wheels and get her to kneel. That will give you a better angle for installing the new motor.
With the front wheels removed and the front lower on stands (or even resting directly on cribbing) and the rear wheels chocked (and possibly also on jack stands at the rear) she is not going anywhere.
Rolling the cherry picker downhill is not a problem if you are careful:
- Keep the motor as low as you can at all times. Only raise it as you get up to the truck and need to get it in.
- Watch the momentum of the swinging motor. If the motor swings out just right the load can try to get away from you. Time your moves.
- Add a sideways strap to keep the motor from swinging out, away from the cherry picker, as you head downhill.
- Have a helper standing by with a long length of wood that can be jammed under the wheels of the cherry picker if you need to stop it in a hurry.
- Depending on how smooth the driveway, you might want to only travel a few inches at a time. In any case do not let the entire assembly catch a head of steam rolling downhill.
- If you are working by yourself, or even if not, place a long strip of wood on the ground ahead of the cherry picker so it can only move so far forward without being stopped. Place the wood close enough such that even if the cherry picker gets away from you it will not have anough momentum to cause a problem.
- Don't be afraid of the load; just be aware of the forces involved and think one step ahead of what they could conspire.
NIVEK_TURK
Observer
Chock the rear, pull the front tires off and lower the frame onto jack stands. I had to do this with my Tacoma. I also used 2x6 under the rotors just as a secondary precaution.
LR Max
Local Oaf
I've done it, it sucks.
The issue is the engine crane, they just go all over the place when pulling and installing an engine. It sucks.
If you don't have a choice, pull the front wheels and drop the front end down onto some low jack stands. That always helps. As does pulling the hood (which you'll have to do anyway).
The issue is the engine crane, they just go all over the place when pulling and installing an engine. It sucks.
If you don't have a choice, pull the front wheels and drop the front end down onto some low jack stands. That always helps. As does pulling the hood (which you'll have to do anyway).
1stDeuce
Explorer
Having done an engine swap on a very slightly sloped driveway, I can indeed say that controlling the lift is indeed your biggest concern. Your second biggest concern is that most engine hoists won't lift the engine high enough to get it over the radiator... I had to kneel the front of the truck, possibly beyond even just setting the axle right on the ground. (I think there's a picture in my K2500 thread on page 5.) That solves the rolling problem quite well though. 
I'd recommend nosing it into the garage just far enough that the engine hoist is entirely on the flat garage floor if possible. If your garage has a small (short) door, then you'll be working on the sloped drive, and you'll have to hook something to the hoist that can hold it, and pull it back when you're ready. (ATV, Garden tractor, wife's car...)
As for the mess, I use cardboard so I'm not directly laying on the ground. Drain any oil lines into a pan overnight. Drain as much coolant as you can. The cardboard will keep oil off the concrete, and soak up some of the antifreeze that's going to spill. Add some kitty litter or oil dry and your mess is limited.
I'd recommend nosing it into the garage just far enough that the engine hoist is entirely on the flat garage floor if possible. If your garage has a small (short) door, then you'll be working on the sloped drive, and you'll have to hook something to the hoist that can hold it, and pull it back when you're ready. (ATV, Garden tractor, wife's car...)
As for the mess, I use cardboard so I'm not directly laying on the ground. Drain any oil lines into a pan overnight. Drain as much coolant as you can. The cardboard will keep oil off the concrete, and soak up some of the antifreeze that's going to spill. Add some kitty litter or oil dry and your mess is limited.
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
Call a local friend maybe and see if they have a flat RV pad or other space in their driveway, at least that is what my brain is saying. And do not listen to anyone who says to simply chock the tires and call it good, an engine hoist will move with the slightest swing of the engine on even flat surfaces, imagine how you might end up with 300-400 pounds swinging around on a slight slope.
Mrknowitall
Adventurer
Chris,
Suddenly I'm left wondering if Bryan has pictures of Frank's high-clearance engine extraction device.
Suddenly I'm left wondering if Bryan has pictures of Frank's high-clearance engine extraction device.
1stDeuce
Explorer
Hahaha... I suppose that might be an option... We'll call it the Frank method...
Let's see, run a heavy tow strap between two trees, kinda high up, then secure a 8000lb winch on multi-mount to the middle of the tow strap to form a "V". Remove hood on truck. Position engine directly under winch. Use jumper cables to power the winch and pluck the engine out. Roll truck back. Drop engine into bed of pickup or onto stand. Count blessings.
To be clear, we were in college, and Frank was an Electrical Engineering major, not Mechanical. He did things (Most of which worked out fine!) that would have got a Mechanical Engineer kicked out of the engineering program.
On a more serious note, I forgot to add that on a sloped surface, you certainly can't use the most extended position of the hoist, as it'll tip forward into the truck... That further reduces lift height.
BigSwede
The Credible Hulk
drewactual
Adventurer
man... y'all over thinkin' it, big time...
hell, I grew up where there was zero flat land- we threw horseshoes over a hill and couldn't even see the other pin...
anyway....
point your rig downhill... hoist your engine on the boom (assuming castered boom) and brace it with another vehicle... align and allow the truck to roll under the engine slowly with yern foot firmly on yern brake... upon positioning it properly, chock the freakin' wheels with something substantial that ain't gonna kick out or spit.
this actually creates the angle you need to plant that thing with greater ease...
are you stabbing the transmission at the same time? I'd not recommend that... I'd stab it to the engine instead, after you're cradled nicely.
I never had the luxury of a proper boom... I had a 6x6 build up of 2x4's built like a gallows with a block lashed to the crossing beam, and a iron mule to crank it up with... gotta love it, huh?
I mention that gallows because the bottom can be built to the required angle, and is hella more stable than a boom, though it obviously lacks mobility..
even if you don't move the vehicle to the boom, or change direction of vehicle to slope- use another vehicle to brace against, with a nice pad in between such as a blanket and a 2x8.
hell, I grew up where there was zero flat land- we threw horseshoes over a hill and couldn't even see the other pin...
anyway....
point your rig downhill... hoist your engine on the boom (assuming castered boom) and brace it with another vehicle... align and allow the truck to roll under the engine slowly with yern foot firmly on yern brake... upon positioning it properly, chock the freakin' wheels with something substantial that ain't gonna kick out or spit.
this actually creates the angle you need to plant that thing with greater ease...
are you stabbing the transmission at the same time? I'd not recommend that... I'd stab it to the engine instead, after you're cradled nicely.
I never had the luxury of a proper boom... I had a 6x6 build up of 2x4's built like a gallows with a block lashed to the crossing beam, and a iron mule to crank it up with... gotta love it, huh?
I mention that gallows because the bottom can be built to the required angle, and is hella more stable than a boom, though it obviously lacks mobility..
even if you don't move the vehicle to the boom, or change direction of vehicle to slope- use another vehicle to brace against, with a nice pad in between such as a blanket and a 2x8.