Expedition H3
- Thread starter cgalpha08
- Start date
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
his past weekend i worked on installing the switch pros 9100 switch panel.
Originally I had collected more traditional rocker switches and a panel for them, and was planning on going that route, but the more research I did, I wound up with this panel.
I haven't 100% finished it as the panel in the cab isn't hard mounted yet, but it is fully functional and the wiring is done.
This is where I mounted the panel, its about the only space with free real estate in the engine bay near the battery. The kit comes with an aluminum piece of metal that the module gets mounted too. You have to mount the module to the mounting plate first.
Of course if you have a Jeep or Toyota there are endless mounting panel and interior cab options to choose from.
This is a test fit of the mounting plate:
I used the hole closest to the firewall was already there and it is about the perfect size for the M6 screw that's included. The second hole I had to drill, near where the ground wires are mounted to the fender near the battery.
Per the instructions that are included with the kit, there is a blue wire that needs to be connected to a fuse that is ignition triggered. All of the switches will only work with the ignition on until you program them in their app to work off of the battery, if you so choose.
There is also a white wire that you have to connect to a parking light source, such as a blinker or side marker light. This allows the panel to auto dim with the rest of the cab when the sensor senses sunlight and what not.
For the ignition fuse tap, I tried a few spots before i found one that was ignition triggered. I ended up using the fuse for the abs system.
For the parking light signal, instead of wiring it directly to the parking light (this is an option in the instructions) I opted to use another fuse tap and plugged that one directly into the front parking light circuit.
Panel is all mounted. Note: to access the back side of the screws, you have to pull the fender liner in order to put on the nuts. For anyone else who is installing this, swap the flathead M6 screws that are included with some standard M6 bolts. Its a PITA trying to hold a flat head screw driver and install a nut on the back side. A bolt with a wrench would have made that part 10 times easier instead of wrestling with it.
Here is the panel all mounted and wired up. This is about as clean as I could make it. I had to spend a lot of time stripping, crimping, and butt connecting the 8 rock lights that I already had installed. If it hadn't of been for the rock lights, the install would have been fairly painless. I tried to zip tie everything off and keep the lines organized so that there wasn't a rats nest just stuffed in there.
In order to add accessories in future, its as easy as connecting the positive (+) wire from the accessory to the corresponding wire for the switch you want to control it on the panel with a butt connector, and then grounding the accessory wherever you want. The module is solid state, so there are no fuses for each accessory, or anything like that, its all internal.
The panel has 4 high amp switches (35 amp) and 4x 17 amp switches. For the high amp ones, you connect 2, 17 amp wires together, you can see this in the picture above. The 2 purple wires are connected together.
In retrospect I didn't really need all 35 amps for the 8 rock lights, each light is only has a .42 amp draw, so a low amp switch would have been fine.
The module also has a 125 amp master fuse for the whole thing.
One of the reasons I picked this switch panel over Spod, auxbeam, trigger, or one of the others was the infinite color options for the panel itself. This means you can perfectly match the color to the OEM interior lights, which was a huge plus for me.
There is an endless amount of programming in the app.
Can control the switches via blue tooth
Choose ignition control vs battery controlled
Strobe functions.
The list goes on.
Originally I had collected more traditional rocker switches and a panel for them, and was planning on going that route, but the more research I did, I wound up with this panel.
I haven't 100% finished it as the panel in the cab isn't hard mounted yet, but it is fully functional and the wiring is done.
This is where I mounted the panel, its about the only space with free real estate in the engine bay near the battery. The kit comes with an aluminum piece of metal that the module gets mounted too. You have to mount the module to the mounting plate first.
Of course if you have a Jeep or Toyota there are endless mounting panel and interior cab options to choose from.
This is a test fit of the mounting plate:
I used the hole closest to the firewall was already there and it is about the perfect size for the M6 screw that's included. The second hole I had to drill, near where the ground wires are mounted to the fender near the battery.
Per the instructions that are included with the kit, there is a blue wire that needs to be connected to a fuse that is ignition triggered. All of the switches will only work with the ignition on until you program them in their app to work off of the battery, if you so choose.
There is also a white wire that you have to connect to a parking light source, such as a blinker or side marker light. This allows the panel to auto dim with the rest of the cab when the sensor senses sunlight and what not.
For the ignition fuse tap, I tried a few spots before i found one that was ignition triggered. I ended up using the fuse for the abs system.
For the parking light signal, instead of wiring it directly to the parking light (this is an option in the instructions) I opted to use another fuse tap and plugged that one directly into the front parking light circuit.
Panel is all mounted. Note: to access the back side of the screws, you have to pull the fender liner in order to put on the nuts. For anyone else who is installing this, swap the flathead M6 screws that are included with some standard M6 bolts. Its a PITA trying to hold a flat head screw driver and install a nut on the back side. A bolt with a wrench would have made that part 10 times easier instead of wrestling with it.
Here is the panel all mounted and wired up. This is about as clean as I could make it. I had to spend a lot of time stripping, crimping, and butt connecting the 8 rock lights that I already had installed. If it hadn't of been for the rock lights, the install would have been fairly painless. I tried to zip tie everything off and keep the lines organized so that there wasn't a rats nest just stuffed in there.
In order to add accessories in future, its as easy as connecting the positive (+) wire from the accessory to the corresponding wire for the switch you want to control it on the panel with a butt connector, and then grounding the accessory wherever you want. The module is solid state, so there are no fuses for each accessory, or anything like that, its all internal.
The panel has 4 high amp switches (35 amp) and 4x 17 amp switches. For the high amp ones, you connect 2, 17 amp wires together, you can see this in the picture above. The 2 purple wires are connected together.
In retrospect I didn't really need all 35 amps for the 8 rock lights, each light is only has a .42 amp draw, so a low amp switch would have been fine.
The module also has a 125 amp master fuse for the whole thing.
One of the reasons I picked this switch panel over Spod, auxbeam, trigger, or one of the others was the infinite color options for the panel itself. This means you can perfectly match the color to the OEM interior lights, which was a huge plus for me.
There is an endless amount of programming in the app.
Can control the switches via blue tooth
Choose ignition control vs battery controlled
Strobe functions.
The list goes on.
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
Finally finished my switch pros 9100 install. Stopped in the middle mainly since we bought a house and moved.
I bought on ebay an early model h3 center console cover that doesn't have the coin tray.
Switch pros includes a template for where to drill. There are countless bezel snd other options out there, I just chose to surface mount it.
I ran the line for the panel through this little hole area up in front of the shifter cable.
The panel also has a sneak peak of some mods that are up and coming as well.
I bought on ebay an early model h3 center console cover that doesn't have the coin tray.
Switch pros includes a template for where to drill. There are countless bezel snd other options out there, I just chose to surface mount it.
I ran the line for the panel through this little hole area up in front of the shifter cable.
The panel also has a sneak peak of some mods that are up and coming as well.
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
ne of the mods I did before I finished the panel was installing some aux lighting on a winch fairlead bracket.
The bracket was from poison spider, had to slightly drill out the bracket so the 1/2 bolts would fit.
These are Diode dynamic ss3 max combo beams.
I made a harness for them, all wrapped and pretty.
They are bright! Haven't tested them out at night yet though.
The bracket was from poison spider, had to slightly drill out the bracket so the 1/2 bolts would fit.
These are Diode dynamic ss3 max combo beams.
I made a harness for them, all wrapped and pretty.
They are bright! Haven't tested them out at night yet though.
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
I finished installing a transmission cooler. Since I'm running a PS cooler up front that was albeit poorly located right below below radiator, I decided to do a remote mount trans cooler.
This avoids adding more heat in front of the engine radiator and lows the trans cooler to be in a place that doesn't have a lot of other heat sources.
I went with this kit, primarily since it had adapters for the transmission to replace the factory lines, new fragola fittings and braided lines.
https://www.motionraceworks.com/col...ission-cooler-w-fan-and-fragola-line-fittings
Unfortunately I underestimated the lack of access to the trans lines on the transmission itself. So I used some 3/8 hard line to -6 AN fitting adapters.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165006erl?rrec=true
I cut the hardlines pretty short and pointed them down. If you remove that shield that is there, there is just enough wiggle room to rotate them. I then used the 90 degree fittings to point the line rearward. I ran the line over the transfer case, up along the body and over the frame. Used some padded line clamps to secure it to the factory heat shields on the body and drilled 1 hole for a sheet metal screw
I used 4 1" stainless steel spacers to keep the cooler a bit off the frame and to help with air flow. The crossmember in the rear has 3 large holes in it. This is mounted under the middle one.
Since I chopped off the muffler I did end up extending the pipe out the back and wrapping it with exhaust wrap to help keep heat away from the lines and the cooler
It doesn't hang below the frame at all, I may drop it some more to help with air flow, maybe another 1/2 inch or so.
I ran it alot today and with the fan on it keeps it at roughly 176-177 for transmission temps.
I fully expect this to rise in hotter ambient temps, barely hit 60 degrees outside today. Im guessing upper 180s low 190s is where it'll sit in hot weather. Heck anything under 200 and I'll be happy.
The fan is wired up to my switch panel, so I have to manually turn it on. I had tried to use a thermostat (it's still in place) and have it wired so it would come on at 185 automatically but I failed to find the right 12v source for it so I just wired it directly to my switch panel. I spliced into more than 1 wire on the trailer plug harness but none seemed to do that trick. I'll admit I more that likely tried to splice it wrong but at the end of the day I said screw it and did this. I still need to wrap the wiring in some conduit, so that part isn't quite done. The switch it's on is ignition controlled so it will turn off whenever I turn thr h3 off, so no worrked about it killing the battery.
This avoids adding more heat in front of the engine radiator and lows the trans cooler to be in a place that doesn't have a lot of other heat sources.
I went with this kit, primarily since it had adapters for the transmission to replace the factory lines, new fragola fittings and braided lines.
https://www.motionraceworks.com/col...ission-cooler-w-fan-and-fragola-line-fittings
Unfortunately I underestimated the lack of access to the trans lines on the transmission itself. So I used some 3/8 hard line to -6 AN fitting adapters.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165006erl?rrec=true
I cut the hardlines pretty short and pointed them down. If you remove that shield that is there, there is just enough wiggle room to rotate them. I then used the 90 degree fittings to point the line rearward. I ran the line over the transfer case, up along the body and over the frame. Used some padded line clamps to secure it to the factory heat shields on the body and drilled 1 hole for a sheet metal screw
I used 4 1" stainless steel spacers to keep the cooler a bit off the frame and to help with air flow. The crossmember in the rear has 3 large holes in it. This is mounted under the middle one.
Since I chopped off the muffler I did end up extending the pipe out the back and wrapping it with exhaust wrap to help keep heat away from the lines and the cooler
It doesn't hang below the frame at all, I may drop it some more to help with air flow, maybe another 1/2 inch or so.
I ran it alot today and with the fan on it keeps it at roughly 176-177 for transmission temps.
I fully expect this to rise in hotter ambient temps, barely hit 60 degrees outside today. Im guessing upper 180s low 190s is where it'll sit in hot weather. Heck anything under 200 and I'll be happy.
The fan is wired up to my switch panel, so I have to manually turn it on. I had tried to use a thermostat (it's still in place) and have it wired so it would come on at 185 automatically but I failed to find the right 12v source for it so I just wired it directly to my switch panel. I spliced into more than 1 wire on the trailer plug harness but none seemed to do that trick. I'll admit I more that likely tried to splice it wrong but at the end of the day I said screw it and did this. I still need to wrap the wiring in some conduit, so that part isn't quite done. The switch it's on is ignition controlled so it will turn off whenever I turn thr h3 off, so no worrked about it killing the battery.
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
Installed a license plate relocation bracket, since a Thorparts rear is on the way.
The bracket includes a license plate lamp and a little brake light.
I tapped into the wiring behind the drivers taillight
Brown is the running lamp circuit (license plate lamp)
Blue is the brake light circuit for when you hit the brakes (used this for the little brake light)
Black is ground
Green is reverse.
The bracket includes a license plate lamp and a little brake light.
I tapped into the wiring behind the drivers taillight
Brown is the running lamp circuit (license plate lamp)
Blue is the brake light circuit for when you hit the brakes (used this for the little brake light)
Black is ground
Green is reverse.
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
So upon further consideration I decided that the 18ga wire that I ran for the transmission cooler wasn't going to be adequate in the long term for the amps that the fan pulls. I only used it because it was laying around at the time. It's right on the edge of what would work, but I didn't want to risk it. So I cut it out and re ran some 12 ga wire in some conduit all the way back.
With the switch pros you can set the overcurrent cut off for each switch. I adjusted switch 8, which is the fan to 10 amps. The fan pulls 5.3 amps. So a little added security incase anything goes wrong.
Installed the Thorparts rear bumper.
I'm going to add the camera and reverse lights another time after rhe holidays most likely
With the switch pros you can set the overcurrent cut off for each switch. I adjusted switch 8, which is the fan to 10 amps. The fan pulls 5.3 amps. So a little added security incase anything goes wrong.
Installed the Thorparts rear bumper.
I'm going to add the camera and reverse lights another time after rhe holidays most likely
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
I've been working on building a new crossmember up front. What I had before was just bolted to the frame and didn't add much structural support and mainly served to hold my power steering cooler. This new crossmember is welded to the frame so it should add some rigidity as well as holding my power steering cooler. You can see below the new one as well as it compared to the old one. The added benefit of this is that it also protects the radiator from below as well.
I wanted to shoehorn it up more between the rails near the steering box but that kinds exceeded my fabrication and welding skills.
Everything clears as it should, ram lines, rock lights (they're blocked a little, but owell) and drag link all fit into place.
I wanted to shoehorn it up more between the rails near the steering box but that kinds exceeded my fabrication and welding skills.
Everything clears as it should, ram lines, rock lights (they're blocked a little, but owell) and drag link all fit into place.
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
Cranked through a lot of things in the couple of months before going to moab in April of 2022, but she's finally back on all 4s.
New:
-Yukon Chromoly axle shafts
-diff cover bolts
-wheel bearings
-ball joints (both sides)
-solid axle forged spindles (old ones looked wrong, like the bearing was spinning on the spindle, figured id rather be safe than sorry)
-Spindle bearing
-axle seals
-hub seals
-lockouts
-re routed a ram assist line
-new headlights
-Belt tensioner (old one was visibly wobbling)
Still need to adjust the alignment and add diff fluid, but the big stuff is done
Ill re check the wheel bearing preload after putting some miles on it.
New:
-Yukon Chromoly axle shafts
-diff cover bolts
-wheel bearings
-ball joints (both sides)
-solid axle forged spindles (old ones looked wrong, like the bearing was spinning on the spindle, figured id rather be safe than sorry)
-Spindle bearing
-axle seals
-hub seals
-lockouts
-re routed a ram assist line
-new headlights
-Belt tensioner (old one was visibly wobbling)
Still need to adjust the alignment and add diff fluid, but the big stuff is done
Ill re check the wheel bearing preload after putting some miles on it.
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
This is what the height looks like with a human in the seat. It's pretty close to perfect, maybe a couple inches higher would be the sweet spot.
I also started cutting and test fitting some if the top plates. Didn't get much further than that as I need to pick up some smaller diameter welding wire.
I also started cutting and test fitting some if the top plates. Didn't get much further than that as I need to pick up some smaller diameter welding wire.
cgalpha08
"Like Nothing Else"
Awhile back I had orderd some chromoly rear axle shafts for the 10 bolt. These are from nitro gear and axle.
https://www.nitro-gear.com/GM-8-6-Nitro-Rear-Axle-Shaft-p/axg40022632.htm
I had originally put some factory oem wheels studs in them, however after I installed the axle shafts I realized that there wasn't enough thread engagement on the lug nut for my comfort. I picked up some ARP wheel studs (100-7725) they are 2.5 inches long.
I did have to drill out the stud holes, as the ARP studs have a .509" knurl diameter, and the factory ones have roughly a .47" knurl diameter. I used a reamer that was .4995", which puts the hole at roughly .0095" smaller than the arp studs. ARP calls for between .006" and .016" smaller, after cutting the holes all came out to about .498"-.496" which is .011"-.013" smaller than the knurl diameter, so right in spec.
I used a drill block to center the reamer over the hole and used a chucking reamer vs a drill bit to get the clearance.
I realize I may have been fine because I think I had the same amount of thread engagement before, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. You can see below the difference in length of the 2 wheel studs, and roughly how much thread engagement I had with the oem studs.
https://www.nitro-gear.com/GM-8-6-Nitro-Rear-Axle-Shaft-p/axg40022632.htm
I had originally put some factory oem wheels studs in them, however after I installed the axle shafts I realized that there wasn't enough thread engagement on the lug nut for my comfort. I picked up some ARP wheel studs (100-7725) they are 2.5 inches long.
I did have to drill out the stud holes, as the ARP studs have a .509" knurl diameter, and the factory ones have roughly a .47" knurl diameter. I used a reamer that was .4995", which puts the hole at roughly .0095" smaller than the arp studs. ARP calls for between .006" and .016" smaller, after cutting the holes all came out to about .498"-.496" which is .011"-.013" smaller than the knurl diameter, so right in spec.
I used a drill block to center the reamer over the hole and used a chucking reamer vs a drill bit to get the clearance.
I realize I may have been fine because I think I had the same amount of thread engagement before, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. You can see below the difference in length of the 2 wheel studs, and roughly how much thread engagement I had with the oem studs.
