F450 Custom Composite Expedition Truck - ALL THE DETAILS

[Zackclarke]

Thank you for all the info! Love the post! I’m currently working with Harrison and in the design phase.

 

[Todd34]

Thanks for such a great thread! We’re considering a build in the next year or two so yours came along at the perfect time.

 

[Allysonoverland]

Thank you for all the info! Love the post! I’m currently working with Harrison and in the design phase.

Ahh that’s so exciting. I have been so happy working with Harrison on this project. cant wait to see what you do with yours. please feel free to reach out if you have any questions!

Thanks for such a great thread! We’re considering a build in the next year or two so yours came along at the perfect time

be careful. This is how it started for me too Todd... just a tiny little dream 2 years ago that eventually took over all my thoughts and free time. until I just had to make it reality 😆

do it 🥳

 

[Allysonoverland]

Wow - it’s been a whole month since my last post. Here’s an update on the camper build:
My electrical component order arrived and got installed.



Batteries are 3 x 200ah @ 24v EG4 server rack batteries. weighing in at 99 lbs each.



At the time of my research, this was the best option when comparing, price, weight, size, etc.
However, I always recommend checking Will Prowse's YouTube channel for the most up to date info and education on electrical.

All other components in my system are Victron. This is my third build with Victron, and they have never let me down. All parts were ordered from Signature Solar.

We also installed 8 x 200w Renogy Anti-Shade Shadow Flux solar panels using slim custom fabricated brackets (powder coated after this pic). Totaling 1,600W of solar. These fit perfectly on my 92” wide roof, with space for access if needed. The custom brackets allow for simple panel removal / replacement if needed.



Installed Maxx air deluxe fan, and my flat mount Starmount Systems 12v starlink (moved over from my van). This is the v2 dish and I pair it with the Pepwave Balance 20x Cat-7 - Expandable to Dual Modem LTE Router. I used to have SIM cards in it from 2 different cellphone providers for failover.




However, if I was starting over today, I'd 1000% just order the Starlink mini. Starlink has been sufficient for my needs the last 2 years, and the mini comes ready for 12v power. No fancy conversion kit necessary.

]

 

[Allysonoverland]

Dialed in the cabinet details - lots of rounded corners being done. Some innovation was necessary. I'll get more photos for you on that later! (this is just a test piece)



To save weight - All cabinets are made with an ultralight ply. Laminated interiors in white, exteriors in a flat cut white oak veneer, as previously linked in my previous post.




Extra space in the dividers between upper cabinets have cutouts to save weight.



Using Blum Aventos mechanisms for a sleek soft close cabinet.

 

[Allysonoverland]

Also built the frame for the stairs leading up to the bed (underneath is what will house my Velit in-bench AC, Rixens hydronic system for heat and hot water - and a few other components).



As you can see, there is a hatch to access it all from the outside of the camper if needed.

The false floor frame, made of aluminum extrusion, was then covered with a honeycomb composite panel as the subfloor - now ready to lay the final flooring over top.

Here's a final look at the inside as of last week...

 

[Greeneyedman]

Love this build! My girlfriend and I have planned for a build like this as well. Just saving up!

Any plans for a bathroom/shower? Adding ac?

 

[gator70]

I went with the rear wrap around dinette too. So many pros and cons to that decision. My water tanks are under the benches as is the truma water heater.

 

[dstefan]

Also built the frame for the stairs leading up to the bed (underneath is what will house my Velit in-bench AC, Rixens hydronic system for heat and hot water - and a few other components).

View attachment 886264View attachment 886265

As you can see, there is a hatch to access it all from the outside of the camper if needed.

The false floor frame, made of aluminum extrusion, was then covered with a honeycomb composite panel as the subfloor - now ready to lay the final flooring over top.

Here's a final look at the inside as of last week...

View attachment 886266
View attachment 886263

What adhesive is being used to apply the 8020 to the walls?

 

[Skinhyfish]

Lets talk about "torsion free" subframes.

This one is a can of worms that I have seen debated over and over again and honestly I still do not feel qualified enough to provide a true opinion. But I will dump what I think I know here.

Unimogs, for example, have frames that are designed by Daimler to flex drastically with the terrain. When you’re off roading with a frame that is more flexible, you have to deal with the torsion somehow - otherwise your camper will end up being the stiffest part of the setup and take on all the load (which could damage / crack your habitat). The argument is, that a subframe alleviates those points so that it doesn't transfer to your camper.

However, the general consensus I’ve gathered is that not all trucks need a subframe. The chassis you choose, plus the weight/size of the box and the terrain you like to go to are all important factors to consider when deciding if you need a special subframe for your camper.

In relation to Ford Trucks, the 2017+ F-250 / F-350 / F-450 pickups have a fully boxed frame for stiffness. The frames are built of more than 95 percent high-strength steel with up to 10 crossmembers, and are 24 times stiffer than the older generations. The frame is designed to minimize flexing and twisting while maximizing strength and torsional rigidity. This means in theory, outside of extreme cases, the stiffness of the frame should prevent transfer of the torsion to your box.

In contrast, the 2017+ F-350/F-450/F-550 chassis cabs have a fully boxed frame under the cab and forward, but have c-channel aft of the cab. The more flexible C channel allows the frame to flex more. This concern is what drives the discussion about the need for a torsion-free subframe on cab chassis trucks like the Ford F550.

Some interesting discussion on the differences between the frame rails of ford pickups vs cab chassis can be found here.

There are certainly people on this forum who have direct mounted campers to a flexible chassis without a subframe and reported back without issue. I have no idea what terrain they’re traveling but can only take them at their word. Some argue this topic is over-thought and hyper analyzed. I am not an engineer and encourage you all to draw your own conclusions.

I did find this thread discussing subframes to be interesting (it’s a lot of information, mostly about the Fuso FG).

All this to say - since my build is going on a Ford f450 pickup (stiff frame) and my camper floor is only 10 ft in length - I have opted to not do a special subframe. I will remove my pickup bed and replace it with a custom flatbed. My camper will then be mounted to the flatbed. Semantics of that entire process will be disclosed at a later date.

I made this decision after reflecting on the reality of where I’d actually be taking this camper. I love off-roading, finding a site in the middle of nowhere that most people can’t get to/don't know about, and staying for a week or two. But I do this while keeping in mind that my entire home is on the back. I have zero intentions of rock crawling with this thing. I just want a capable vehicle to be able to go where I wanna go and get myself out when I mess up Everyones use case is different and should be factored into the decision.

If you are looking to source a subframe, I don’t have a ton of resources for you because I decided not to go this route, but here are a few off the top of my head:

Globetrekker
DDG Overland
Overland Adventure Truck
Bowen Customs (with a flatbed)
Off-Grid Customs (with a flatbed, I believe for their camper customers only)
+many more I'm sure.

Next, we will discuss all the different rabbit holes I went down to find a custom flatbed for this camper, and the various suppliers I came across. From the most expensive, to most budget friendly options!

What flatbed you choosing? Summit trays or OEV? You said Canada.

Ralf with summit expeditions built my box and he was the best to work with

 

[unreng]

Might want to consider some Noctua fans in the electrical area to move air.
Next time consider using strut channel to mount the solar panels - it’s super adaptable and will accept different size panels without having to modify the mounting brackets to the roof.
Are you putting work lights in the electrical area? Sometimes electrical issues happen at night and having a work light makes life easier.
How do you access the roof to clean the solar panels (dirt / snow / branches / leaves)??
What air gap is beneath the solar panels? At least 100mm?
For others pondering a roof vent/fan, consider the Lemans low profile fan as it fits beneath solar panels.

Good luck with the build!! 👍

(edit) forgot to mention a quality electrical system hack - carry a set of wago connectors in the emergency parts bin... they’re also great for electrical connections (10ga and smaller).

 

[rruff]

What air gap is beneath the solar panels? At least 100mm?

Although a nice gap will help airflow and a cooler panel will be more efficient... I wasn't able to find any actual test data on this. Maybe I'll do a test with my portables. In midday summer I just lay them flat on the ground with basically no air gap, and there isn't much degradation in output that I've noticed.

Generally the change in peak efficiency with temperature is ~0.25%/F, so a 20F panel temperature increase would be a 5% power loss. Aerodynamics and surviving tree branches are good reasons to not have large air gaps for panels mounted on your rig. Some people have zero gap even on rigid panels, and the flexible panels usually have none.

Regarding lights, I have couple good rechargeable headlamps around that are perfect for my needs.

 

[tmacc]

I like all of the windows you'll have. That my wife's biggest gripe with our truck camper. Lack of enough windows.

 

[rruff]

I like all of the windows you'll have. That my wife's biggest gripe with our truck camper. Lack of enough windows.

IMO letting in the sun is a bigger issue... and heat and cold since none of them insulate well.

 

[unreng]

Although a nice gap will help airflow and a cooler panel will be more efficient... I wasn't able to find any actual test data on this. Maybe I'll do a test with my portables. In midday summer I just lay them flat on the ground with basically no air gap, and there isn't much degradation in output that I've noticed.

Generally the change in peak efficiency with temperature is ~0.25%/F, so a 20F panel temperature increase would be a 5% power loss. Aerodynamics and surviving tree branches are good reasons to not have large air gaps for panels mounted on your rig. Some people have zero gap even on rigid panels, and the flexible panels usually have none.

Regarding lights, I have couple good rechargeable headlamps around that are perfect for my needs.

Solar mounting structure to create air gap required below solar PV modules - China Solaracks

www.solaracks.com

(edits)

Natural Ventilation and Effect of Temperature on Solar Roofs

solarstone.com

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1155/2013/925280