Finally!

If I had a 1550L/37 this would be inspirational:
http://www.unicat.net/en/info/MD45-UnimogU1550L37.html
I hope you have at least working gears and 5.31 axle gears.
The referenced one also has a Claas overdrive and 395/85R20s.
You can buy the 395 XZLs brand new for a bit over $400 (he gave me a deal for buying 4) each at:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/180527...f592918&itemid=180527027017&ff4=263602_304692
I have a set in my driveway and they are beautiful.
395s and 5.31s even without a Claas will give you a top speed at 2400 rpm of 98kph and a cruise speed at 2200 of~90kph.

Charlie
 

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
Congratulations,
Looks like it is in pretty nice shape.

Is a U1550L or U1550L37?

What about all the vital statistics?
Year
Engine OM366L / OM366LA
Transmission 8/16/24
Alxe / Hub ratios
Hydraulics

It's a 1993, OM366A engine, turbo, hydraulics on front, UG 3/65 gearbox . . not sure what the axle / hub ratios are . . . have to research that a bit more.
 

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
If I had a 1550L/37 this would be inspirational:
http://www.unicat.net/en/info/MD45-UnimogU1550L37.html
I hope you have at least working gears and 5.31 axle gears.
The referenced one also has a Claas overdrive and 395/85R20s.
You can buy the 395 XZLs brand new for a bit over $400 (he gave me a deal for buying 4) each at:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/180527...f592918&itemid=180527027017&ff4=263602_304692
I have a set in my driveway and they are beautiful.
395s and 5.31s even without a Claas will give you a top speed at 2400 rpm of 98kph and a cruise speed at 2200 of~90kph.

Charlie


Hi Charlie

Thanks for the links. Yeah, the Unicat is pretty sweet and has lots of nice features and options. My Mog came shod with a set of 405/70/R20 Dunlops. They seem to be fine although I'll probably replace them with Michelins once they've had their day in the sun.

I don't think my truck as the working gears, although it does have the Class overdrive. I also don't know if it has the 5.31 axle gears. I need someone who knows a lot more about Mogs than I do to check it out and tell me all of this info.

We can quite happily cruise around 95 - 100 kph at around 2200-2300 rpm. I haven't pushed it yet to see what the top end is, although Hellgeth claims it to be 120 kph. We get a little bit of a wobble between 90-93 kph but before and after that its nice and steady.
 
Working gears are essentially low range in the transfer case. They are quite low, 5.76:1. If they are not there it could require dis-assembly of the trans to add a longer shaft unless the trans came pre-ordered with this shaft, then it's an easy job.
If your top speed is 120kph, then you have 5.31s.

Charlie
 
Last edited:

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
Working gears are essentially low range in the transfer case. They are quite low, 5.76:1. If they are not there it could require dis-assembly of the trans to add a longer shaft unless the trans came pre-ordered with this saft, then it's an easy job.

Charlie

Do you think I'll need these? I generally start off from a dead stop in 3rd or 4th as 1st and 2nd are quite low already.
 

mogwildRW1

Adventurer
I have the same gears as you (5.31), I wanted to get working gears at first, but now that I've driven it lots, I find that 1st and 2nd are plenty low enough for 95% of offroad excursions. The working gears are really low, and would be nice for matching your wheel speed to your winch speed when pulling yourself out of the mud (to avoid tire spin) I think you'll be just fine without, drive the truck for a while and decide if you need a lower gear than 1st.
 
Do you think I'll need these? I generally start off from a dead stop in 3rd or 4th as 1st and 2nd are quite low already.

Admittedly 1st gear in my U500 is only 9.57 and 1st in your U1550 is 13.01.
I usually start in 2nd, which is like your 3rd, because I have a GVM of >12 metric tons. But I find working gears extremely necessary on rough offroad (really offroad, as opposed to bad road).
I have crawlers too (55.7:1 relative to road gears): useful only for matching wheel to winch speed (front winch 3-4-5; rear winch reverse 5-6-7).
Ask Hellgeth if it would be easy or hard to add the working gear box; if they went over the vehicle, they'll know if it has that shaft already. It should be in the mfg. specs.
You will find if you add a camper, GVM will increase from perhaps 4.5 tons to 8 tons and gearing needs will increase.

Charlie
 

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
Seems to make good sense to have the gears match the winch. However, I think I'll drive the vehicle for a while and ensure it fits my needs before putting to much additional $$ into it. I love the vehicle and my only concern is whether the GVW of 8,500 kg will be enough to carry a decent camper and all of our gear. In its current configuration with the military box mounted, its around 6,500 kg. I don't want to get too close to the GVW so am thinking of trying to keep it at around 8,000 kg max. This would leave me around 1,500 kg for all of the gear, equipment, water, etc. Never having done this before, I don't know if 1,500 is sufficient for all of this or whether I'm going to struggle with that weight restriction???
 
Believe me when I say it will be a struggle.
My U500 was 6200 bare chassis; 9900kg with camper fully built + rear winch and generator but all tanks empty, no front winch.
11300 kg with front winch and tanks of water and fuel full and 2 extra spares.
12800 kg full of gear with full tanks.
Still 2200kg below vehicle GVM rating but only 100kg at worst below rear axle GAWR.

Charlie
 

dzzz

Nice truck!!
It does take a long time to get everything sorted out. I agree to not rush into buying more options before you need them. I'm not sure what you'll need for gears. I do agree on the U500 that just the high range isn't enough. But I'm not sure what you'll need on you lighter truck with a lower first gear.

You will likely end up maxing out your GVW. You will need to be careful with the camper build to retain adequate cargo capacity. But I wouldn't worry to much on a mog being at GVW wet. The mog is designed to be used hard as an offroad work truck. You won't stress it that way with a camper.
 

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
You will likely end up maxing out your GVW. You will need to be careful with the camper build to retain adequate cargo capacity. But I wouldn't worry to much on a mog being at GVW wet. The mog is designed to be used hard as an offroad work truck. You won't stress it that way with a camper.

Well, our plan (if it comes to fruition) is to be on the road for a number of years. Consequently, we'll need a camper that is relatively comfortable and has the capacity to carry all our gear. We do plan on packing as light as we can but I'm a little worried that we'll still go over the GVW with all of the equipment, fuel, water, high-class hookers, etc. that we'll be carrying.
 

dzzz

Mogs are designed to be driven by 18 year-old privates offroad. Fuso FG's are not. Your not go to break a mog at GVW. It's good to be conservative when thinking about long-term wear and tear. But that approach can be taken to an unnecessary extent.

As far as top speed, you will be as much limited by horsepower as gears. Up a grade or into a headwind you will be slow. I have more than 1 hp/ 100 pounds and I'm only 40-45mph up a long 6% grade. I expect you will be more like 30 mph. I find road speed in a big wheel medium duty truck to be much more variable than I expected. I zip along at 65 mph on flat interstate. But on a bumpy, curvy road I'm the slow guy.

Not that road speed is a problem. Just that my experience is different than my expectation from driving the mog shorter distances.

I do like passing semis on the interstate. The look on the driver's face is "what the 'f' is THAT?"
 

Jolly Roger

Adventurer
As far as top speed, you will be as much limited by horsepower as gears. Up a grade or into a headwind you will be slow. I have more than 1 hp/ 100 pounds and I'm only 40-45mph up a long 6% grade. I expect you will be more like 30 mph. I find road speed in a big wheel medium duty truck to be much more variable than I expected. I zip along at 65 mph on flat interstate. But on a bumpy, curvy road I'm the slow guy.

Well, I'm hoping I'll be able to chug along faster than 30mph, even up a 6% grade. I'll have to find a nice big hill, give her a try and report back.
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
Hi Incendo, nice truck, I would have loved a 1550L37 as a bases vehicle - I agree with Charlie on the GVM part - I've been looking at all sorts of weight saving from the start of my camper build, and with all my gear on board I will just squeeze in under GVM. My basic truck with semi complete camper box on was 4700kg, yours is heavier to start with being a 1550L37, but has a ton more GVM than mine. The military box is not the way to go for a camper - it is way too heavy.

Here is my weight list :

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=790108&postcount=77

My steel frame aluminium structure is still relatively quite heavy, but since I have two passenger seats in the back, it has to be "substantial" or the "Engineer" will not certify it. Even then, I have used thin wall members relying on structural strength of the section and lots of bracing more than just the wall thickness.

Once you start adding up all the little things - it soon adds up. I've been trying to save weight as much as possible, and have kept as far as best I can, a running spreadsheet on everything I've put into the truck - just a list of everything I have bought and the weight on the package or delivery notes, and it is surprising what it all adds up to.

For example, I have around 12kg of SIKAFlex in the truck to date. The under body sealant - 8 litres with 75% solids comes in at 6kg. The diesel stove is 8kg, the Webasto heater is 5kg. The fittings and fixtures will be heavy - my fridges and fridge slide weight 50kg's. The toilet and slide is 14kg's. When you look at things like taps, shower heads etc, valves, if you plan on a long trip in remote areas, you can't buy the lightweight plastic ones, you have to go with the good quality brass/stainless steel. My SMEV sink with taps and fittings weights in a 6kg, the shower head 3kg.

I've used weight saving materials were ever possible. The floor came in at 65kg's being a lightweight aluminium /plywood composite - a 3/4" plywood floor would have been 90kg and mine is heaps stronger but it is also about 4 times the price. I'm building my interior furniture out of a lightweight plywood composite - the whole fit-out should not be more than 100kg - and that includes the 27kg's of drawer runners and catches.

I was warned early on in the build by other people who's campers ended up exceeding their GVM, and I can't thank them enough for the warning, if I had headed on the path I was planning on, I would have ended up with an unregisterable elephant - and would have had to buy a bigger Unimog just to fit the camper.

In the words of Ian Chapman - always try to "add lightness" :smiley_drive:
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,344
Messages
2,903,835
Members
230,176
Latest member
Arcadia1415
Top