First Gen Montero Upgrades

[Robbyincr]

Hi evrybody.

I have recently aquired a 1989 Montero with a 4D56 (2.5L) Turbo Diesel motor taken from a 2001 Mitsubishi L200.
First thing, I LOVE THIS THING:wings::wings:. It handles better on the road than any SUV I have ever owned. And it is very capable off road.

The Issues I am having are:
It's stupid hard to find interior upgrade parts. Digital Guages for one. (Any help would be nice)
I have broken my rear trailing arm twice. how can I fix this? or how can I find a much stronger bar?
I have some kind of play in the rear end that makes a noise when I shift. Like it needs shims in the gears or something.
I would like to upgrade the turbo system as well. The boost control valve is stuck, and I want a bit more power from her. What can I do, and what will this motor handle?
I'm not looking to go balls out with it, just want it to sound like a turbo diesel. I would like to go up to a MAX of 20psi in boost. I think it has like 10 now.
I need to change the hood or move the intercooler to a better location as well as it has no scoop in the hood right now.

ANY HELP would be great.
THANKS
Robby

 

[mudraider]

1. You'll have to adapt and figure it ouy. There are no plug and play bolt in gauges available 27 years later.
2. Get the arms off of a Gen 2. They are stronger. Make sure to grab the bushings. You'll need to search to figure which you'll use, can't remember off the top of my head.

sent from my pretty good Android phone

 

[mudraider]

3. Check your u joints. Then put it up in the air and start wiggling things.

sent from my pretty good Android phone

 

[mudraider]

4. Go to 4X4Wire and look at the diesel section. The Wire has been around a lot longer than Portal, has great tech from when these were newer.

sent from my pretty good Android phone

 

[4D55 Performance]

That clunk in the rear end when you shift is normal for Mitsubishi with the KM145 transmission. It's just a characteristic of that tranny. I have had 4 vehicles with that tranny and they all do it.

 

[Robbyincr]

The sound is actually coming from the rear axel.....

 

[Robbyincr]

Thanks! I'm a pretty good fabricator. I need to move the inter-cooler out front, I found a hood scoop here in Costa Rica for $80US, but I like the look without it.... Do you think custom fabricated trailing arms would work?? I replaced a few suspension components with stiffer parts. and am slowly changing out old parts for new. All I need on the outside is a bit of paint. I don't want to mod it on the outside, just upgrade the power and torque from the little 4d56.

 

[Pampas86]

Awesome man, post up some pics of this bad boy!

Have you tried emailing the guys over at MitzyBitz on the interior parts? I've got a 1st Gen Paj with the same TD and when I got it needed an upper timing cover...looked for about a month until I ran across those guys. Maybe ask them. If post 1st GEN gauges can be retrofitted, I bet they could get you some.

+1 on 4x4Wire...lots of great info on the 4D56

 

[Robbyincr]

Here she is! I know she ain't much, but I have grand ideas for her.

 

[JamesW]

You can wind up the power by sticking a few mm of washers under the waste gate bracket, means the waste gate has to push the rod further to open the waste gate. Also you can wind up the pump a bit by adjusting the on boost fuelling, you file down the plastic washer on the plunger, and turn the star wheel under the plunger by around 90 degrees. Mine now boosts up to 24psi and absolutely rips for an old car.

Clunk is fairly normal for the mitsubishi manual, they're a sloppy transmission even in the brand new ones, but it is worth checking the gearbox mounts

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

 

[Fasteddy]

Insert a "boost control" device for a spark ign turbo motor in the waste gate actuator line. I used a wwgrainger adjustable pressure/vacuum relief valve (cost under 20bucks), a brass check valve with a spring loaded check ball and a threaded body to adjust spring and thus boost pressure. You have to add a tee with a bleed, since the valve traps boost pressure at the actuator. I used a .025 mig tip as my bleed.

 

[Fasteddy]

A very good air/air intercooler is the one from a mitsu starion, known to fit the chassis.

 

[Robbyincr]

So I have been doing a bit of research, and was wondering if any body can confirm. I want to put the front and rear axle from a 1995 RS with the disc brake and air locker on my first gen. Is this possible? Is it even needed? I would like the air locker front and rear, but I really just want disc brakes on the rear.
Also I have learned the suspension from the gen 2s will bolt right up to mine, while also giving me a 2" lift, can any of you confirm this as well?
I have decided to fabricate my front bumper as I need to hold on to the original due to inspection issues. I want to make it an air tank basically because I spend a lot of time driving in sand. (Beach)

You guys have been very helpfull so far. THANKS

 

[RMelton]

It is my understanding that the 95-96 SR Rears bolt right in. They are supposed to be the same gear ratio as well. The rear coil springs from a GenII gave me a little shy of 2" of lift in the rear. However I have a SWB so mine is a little lighter. The definitely made it handle better as they stiffened up the suspension.

I plan on doing the rear axel swap in mine as I want the locker and disc brakes also.

 

[Robbyincr]

It is my understanding that the 95-96 SR Rears bolt right in. They are supposed to be the same gear ratio as well. The rear coil springs from a GenII gave me a little shy of 2" of lift in the rear. However I have a SWB so mine is a little lighter. The definitely made it handle better as they stiffened up the suspension.

I plan on doing the rear axel swap in mine as I want the locker and disc brakes also.

Forgive my noobness... whats SWB??