FJ60 Build

KeepCruzin

Observer
Great suggestions, but I wont bother doing a full flush at this point. I will have a 12HT diesel engine in the truck within the next year and with that will come new plumbing and a radiator. If I flush the radiator and heater matrix it will be after my diesel swap.
 

NMC_EXP

Explorer
That is a fine looking FJ60 and the bumper looks good.

One recommendation regarding exterior padlocks - use padlocks with an all brass body and internals. These are much less likely to corrode and "lock-up" than an all steel lock. The brass ones are still subject to ingress of dirt & grit which can cause problems as well. Best to unlock & relock any external padlock on a regular basis to be certain it still functions. If you are way out in the boonies, need your Hi Lift and find the lock won't open then you better have a torch with you.
 

NMC_EXP

Explorer
We replaced the rotors, and put in larger caliper's (brand new) that are on the 80 series. The truck stops much quicker now, and I can lock up all four wheels with a firm stomp on the brake. (previously it took about a mile to come to a stop from 50mph).

Were the 80 series calipers a simple drop in replacement? Not necessary to change rotors, master cylinder.....etc?
 

KeepCruzin

Observer
Great idea NMC. I noticed the same thing. I have a marine padlock that is designed for use on boats that wont rust shut or get all jammed up.

As to the brakes. The 80 series brakes bolted up but did require a larger rotor. The master cylinder worked fine but i prefer a slightly firmer pedal, so we replaced the 7/8" bore master cyl with a 15/16". Now its a nice balance between the stock 1" that comes on the 80 series.
 

NMC_EXP

Explorer
As to the brakes. The 80 series brakes bolted up but did require a larger rotor. The master cylinder worked fine but i prefer a slightly firmer pedal, so we replaced the 7/8" bore master cyl with a 15/16". Now its a nice balance between the stock 1" that comes on the 80 series.

From this I assume the stock FJ60 master cyl bore = 7/8" and the stock 80 series is 1".

Where does one find a M.C. with a 15/16" bore?
 

KeepCruzin

Observer
Correct. The 60 series comes stock with a 7/8" and the 80 series comes stock with a 1". It was really easy for me to find a 15/16 bore actually. I work at Mudrak Custom Cruisers, and we literally have an ocean container full of used brake parts. It didnt take long to find a clean M.C. in the size I wanted. (I believe we pull them off of 70 series cruisers and 90's Tacomas but dont quote me on that).
 

KeepCruzin

Observer
Small Upgrades and Stuff

Ok, so other than the brakes, knuckles, and 5speed, I try to do as much as I can to fix up the little things. I started off with the front grill, trim around the headlights, mirrors, and side vents. I taped off the chrome and bead blasted everything. Then hit the plastic surfaces with some adhesion promoter, and finished with some satin black paint.

Mirror after re-paint



Grill taped and ready for paint and blast





After the repaint, I fixed the rear windshield wiper. It wasnt engaging when the switch was flipped so I followed the wire back from the motor until I found it split back up where it hinges between the hatchback and enters the headliner. I cut the wire and added about four inches of heavier gauge wire to sustain the wear of the closing door. Now the wiper works perfect.



Then the other day I got pulled over because my rear license plate lights were out. I checked the bulbs and fuses and they both looked fine. I had to open up the tail gate and chase the wires from the bulbs back to where they connect with the trailer wire's. Before I got there, I found the problem. Just like the wiper wires, the wire had been broken right at the junction between the tailgate and body. So just like the previous problem, I cut it, beefed up the gauge between the gate and body, and called it a day. Lights work great now and we're moving on to protection!

Right now Im working on designing some sliders and bumpers. I want to fine tune my rear bumper design and add dual swing outs, shackles, a beefier mounting system, and a nicer looking design. The last bumper was a great first run but it needs some improvement. Ill probably put the old one on my dads 60 or sell it.

As to the front bumper, I think I found a killer deal. A guy I know got in a wreck and messed up his ARB bumper. He Tboned the other car at an angle so he only messed up the left wing of the bumper and bent in his fender. Since his truck is covered by insurance and he's getting a new bumper anyway, Im looking to buy or trade for his old one. If I get it, Ill chop off the right and left wings, the tube/bar bart, and go from there. What Im really looking for is the winch tray, and chassis mounts. Because those are all connected and perfectly fit, it would take out about 80% of the design and fab work. Once I have the center 40% of the bumper, I can design my own left and right wings, and any top bar system I want. I think this would be a killer way to go and very inexpensive, yet high quality. Most bumper builds go to hell when the load bearing parts arent plum or well constructed. If I got the bent one, most of the work is done and I have a solid base to start from. Fingers crossed.
 

KeepCruzin

Observer
The Small Things: Decals

The old decals and stickers were getting old and flaky. Not to mention that the two of them were crooked and it drove me NUTS. So I peeled off the old ones, got out the bubble level and masking tape and put on some new decals.



 

KeepCruzin

Observer
New Transmission: H55, Rebuilt T-Case, and a new clutch

So the old 4 speed was tired. The clutch was almost gone and it was time for an upgrade. I have been planning on dropping in a turbo diesel, and they are much easier to mate to an H55 trany anyway, so its a win-win. I started out removing both the front and rear drive shafts, skid plate, and cross member. After that came the old trany, t-case, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, bellhousing, starter, and oil pan. I bead blasted or washed the old housings and parts, repainted them, resurfaced the flywheel, and rebuilt the transfer case.

Old Stuff is out


Old clutch, flywheel, and trany


New stuff is ready to go in


My SUPERIOR organization



Pictures of the completed job to come (I havent crawled under there and snapped any pictures yet)
The truck drives like NEW. In fact, its BETTER than new. The H55 is what should have gone in all these 60's cruisers. It really improves the drivability by about 100%. I cant recomend this swap highly enough.
I am finding I have way more power to climb hills at speed (55 or so), and the truck can really get up and go on flats. In 5th I have no trouble comfortably cruising around 65mph, and can push to 70-75 (compared to my old top speed of 60 at about 3,500 rpm in fourth).
Overall, killer swap. Couldnt be happier.
 

jonnyquest

Adventurer
Can you post some all around pictures (front, side, back)? I'd like to see the blacked out parts from a little distance. You do really excellent work. Great attention to detail.
 

KeepCruzin

Observer
Can you post some all around pictures (front, side, back)? I'd like to see the blacked out parts from a little distance. You do really excellent work. Great attention to detail.

Not a problem! Are you looking for some pictures of the whole truck, or just the transmission? It might be tough to get pictures of some of the parts now that its all in and finished. But I'm going to get under the truck this weekend and get pictures of everything from the new shift knob to the new oil pan. Its all so clean down there you could eat off it. I need to get some pictures before it gets covered in dirt and road grime.
 
Last edited:

Dangler

New member
I had an older 60 w/ the 4sp and fell in love with the simplicity and how manly I felt driving it :smiley_drive:

BUT, I recently picked up a 62 w/ the H55F and LOVE IT - just a whole different experience. Well worth the premium for sure!

Enjoy!:victory:
 

KeepCruzin

Observer
I had an older 60 w/ the 4sp and fell in love with the simplicity and how manly I felt driving it :smiley_drive:

BUT, I recently picked up a 62 w/ the H55F and LOVE IT - just a whole different experience. Well worth the premium for sure!

Enjoy!:victory:

Man, swapping a 62 to a manual H55 is quite a job. Moving the crossmember and shortening the driveshaft and all that can get tricky. I'm surprised you actually found one!
I agree that you just can't match the ************ factor of driving a stick shift cruiser. It's like +200 ************ points


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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