Flash and macro

[goodtimes]

Yikes. So as you probably already read, I recently ordered a Canon 100mm f/2.8 USM macro lens. This is my first foray into macro photography (which has always interested me). Now, I was thinking since I live in the land of incredibly harsh light, I would be able to sneak by without using a flash provided I shoot mid day. After playing around a bit, it is apparent that I thought wrong. If I stop the thing down to get any depth of field, the shutter speed is prohibitively long. Seriously, shooting at f/32 in full sunlight @ ~6" from subject gives me 1/4 second exposures. Not nearly fast enough.

So, anyone have real world experience I can benefit from? A quick look at google gives me a couple of options that cost more than the lens did. Is there a less expensive solution out there (one that actually works and is portable)?

Oh, the lens is sharp...very sharp. Just can't really take advantage of the "really close up" end of the things until I get more light.

 

[DaveInDenver]

So, anyone have real world experience I can benefit from? A quick look at google gives me a couple of options that cost more than the lens did. Is there a less expensive solution out there (one that actually works and is portable)?

Best option is a tripod. You need it anyway for macro.

 

[goodtimes]

While I am using a tripod, once out of direct sunlight (shadows, well lit garage, etc), the exposure times are running 20 - 30 seconds. For example, both of the images I attached in the first post were 20+ second exposures. In those examples, it wasn't a huge deal....but with a live subject (critters), or plants with a breeze blowing...I need the shutter to skip the siesta and get on with it.

I'm thinking I don't really want a ring flash, nor Canons MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite (big $$$)....and with TTL light metering, any reason a simple remote flash wouldn't do the job?

 

[Robthebrit]

drop it down some stops from f32, do you need to be that high? there is very little difference between f18 and f32 in macro world. Crank up the ISO speed too, if you shrink the final picture alot of the noise will blend in.

A flash on the camera sometimes works but you can get some nasty shadows, a regular flash on a hot shoe extender cable works great and you can position the flash anywhere you like to get crazy lighting.

You can get the macro to hand held speeds, you just have to sacrifice a few things.

Rob

 

[pwc]

I agree, more ISO and less f-stop. Newer Canons are really great up to ISO 800 now and even 1600 can be cleaned well. For example, the attached photo doesn't show any grain at this size and I didn't clean it. It was shot at ISO800 in semi dark conditions. Likewise, I also had to open the aperature some to let me light in like you need

By its nature though, Macro photogrpahy will have a great drop off if things aren't on the same plane, or close to it, and you use a shorter shutter speed.

 

[articulate]

Looking at those photos, Brian, you make me want to get a macro lens. Day-um.

 

[bigreen505]

Tripods are your friend. The only thing you get at f32 is a soft picture. It is there when you need it, but the vast majority of the time you don't. I suspect you will end up with a ring flash sooner or later, but for now you might try the Canon Off Camera Shoe Cord II. They are about $50 new and can be found for about $35 on eBay. You can rent one for a couple dollars a day if you want to try it first. You can also rent a ring flash and see if you like it.

Thomas Knoll wrote an excellent article about what to look for in a tripod, does anyone have a link to it?

 

[Robthebrit]

I had no joy with a tripod while shooting macro, yes you do get sharp pictures but its impossible to position the tripod to the half millimeter accuracy that is needed to get the item of interest in focus. Unless you have a macro head I would not use the tripod. Macro heads are not cheap, best thing is to rent a 2 or 3 axis head and see if it fixes your problems.

Rob

 

[bigreen505]

The only thing you get at f32 is a soft picture. It is there when you need it, but the vast majority of the time you don't.

Perhaps that needs a little more explanation. Sean McHugh wrote (Cambridge in Colour) wrote a very in-depth article on
Diffraction Limited Photography: Pixel Size, Aperture and Airy Disks

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

 

[goodtimes]

I have not played with the ISO much....good thought. I was thinking that same thing last night...I'll have to try it when I have some time off next week.

I have read that the ring lights produce a very flat image, no interesting shadows, etc. I'll probably rent one some day just to try it out...but am really more interested in a single source of light...coming in from the side (or top, or bottom...).

Rob, I have the same problem with the tripod...of course it is a relatively cheap tripod...but with any of the traditional tripods I will face the same problem.

 

[nhblacksmith]

One cheap and easy fix to the lighting is to carry a small reflector, even a piece of aluminum foil will work. You can also buy difusers to shade any harsh light. You can also buy clamps that will hook on your tripod with one end and on the reflector with the other and are very flexible. You might also look for a used focusing rail on the big auction site. For simple work you don't need the $500 one. In close macro work, the focus ring becomes a size adjuster and focusing is done by moving the camera in and out towards the work, hence the focus rail with micrometer-like adjustments. You should be able to pick one up for around 50 bucks. Remember to keep the front of the lens parallel to the field you are photographing. That maximizes your depth of field on small subjects when the lens is not stopped down all the way. Another thing to remember is that you don't need expensive "macro" lenses for close focusing. You can buy extension tubes to fit between the lens and the camera that significantly reduce the minimum focusing distance of the lens. Some of the older ones won't couple auto focusing but manual focus is much more practical with macro anyway.

I have a ring flash but it gives an unnatural look to the picture. Few objects in nature are lit from all sides at once. A reflector or remote flash gives a much nicer appearance. Plan on shooting everything from a tripod unless it's just a snapshot of a cool bug you want to show the family. At macro magnifications, movement becomes very apparent. You should use a remote or timed shutter release as well.

Neal