monkeyplunger
Observer
Where did you get the 35 gallon tank? Also does anyone have any experience installing a roof rack? I have an E1 and would like more water capacity and carry a canoe.
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Fleetwood/Coleman Evolution Series Tent Trailers
- Thread starter atavuss
- Start date
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
http://www.beckleysrvs.com/ bought lots of the Fleetwood stock. They have new tanks. That is where I bought mine.
Word of warning about the stock roof rack. The side channels are glued on, and not done very well. Mine and the canoe lifted off at 65 mph on the last trip. The canoe survived. I will re-install the racks, awning and side pieces next weekend.
Word of warning about the stock roof rack. The side channels are glued on, and not done very well. Mine and the canoe lifted off at 65 mph on the last trip. The canoe survived. I will re-install the racks, awning and side pieces next weekend.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Here are the pictures. Two thin strips of a hardened glue. That is all that hold the rails. It sticks fairly well to the fiberglass top, but not well at all to the aluminum.
My roof rack, rails , awning and Canoe came off the trailer suddenly at 65 mph. Thank goodness no one was hurt and all appear to be salvageable with minimal damage.
I did not think the rails were cosmetic covers for the ends. That sure seems backward.
Had I known the rails were so poorly retained, I would not have attached the canoe to that rack. Those with bikes or cargo boxes up there should be afraid, very afraid.
I will be re-installing mine this weekend. Rest assured it will be done much more securely than the factory install. I used a gasket scraper to knock off those two little beads of glue and it is ready to go for this weekends project.
My roof rack, rails , awning and Canoe came off the trailer suddenly at 65 mph. Thank goodness no one was hurt and all appear to be salvageable with minimal damage.
I did not think the rails were cosmetic covers for the ends. That sure seems backward.
Had I known the rails were so poorly retained, I would not have attached the canoe to that rack. Those with bikes or cargo boxes up there should be afraid, very afraid.
I will be re-installing mine this weekend. Rest assured it will be done much more securely than the factory install. I used a gasket scraper to knock off those two little beads of glue and it is ready to go for this weekends project.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
All fixed as soon as the adhesive fully cures. There is some structure along the sides. I drilled and installed five stainless steel screws. Installed low on the outside of the rails they penetrate the wood support. I generously applied SikaFlex adhesive before snapping the rails back over the end caps. A screw through the top at each end inside the track groove. All the screws enter in the adhesive applied to seal them. Tightening the crossbars holds tension to keep the rails together. With the screws along the out sides and the liberal use of adhesive, I don't see this rack coming off without major damage.
These rails have an inverted lip. This snaps over the plastic end caps. You must stay away from the edge far enough to miss that. You do need to stay far enough down to catch the underlying wood structure on the sides. As you can see in the previous pictures there is a void at the corner of the top where the sealing mastic is attached.
I spaced the screws evenly. 8" from each end of the aluminum channel. 54" to the center and 31" to split the difference, as measured from the ends (23" from the screw located at 8" from the end).
BTW , you can see where that rails is tweaked a little in the center. I straightened it as best I could. The red end caps are to keep the wasps from nesting until I can grab some black caps to finish the bars.
I used an 1/8" drill for the holes and then installed 1" long #10 stainless steel screws. These will act more as a resistance to shear loads rather than offer a clamping force. Some "teeth biting in" to hold them on and resisting the lifting forces. I am sure clamping them down helps to hold them on the end caps where the lips snap over. I did have one corner cap that I had to remove and repair. It had cracked where it had stayed snapped to the rail as it lifted off. SikaFlexed the heck out of that and reinstalled.
Knowing what I do now, I would use a needle to inject some adhesive under the lips of the rails where ever possible. Maybe even using a plastic wedge along the bottom to open that void. Then drill the pilot holes for the screws and inject adhesive in those to seal the screws. I think I would be comfortable just installing the screws if I felt my rack was plenty good enough as-is.
These rails have an inverted lip. This snaps over the plastic end caps. You must stay away from the edge far enough to miss that. You do need to stay far enough down to catch the underlying wood structure on the sides. As you can see in the previous pictures there is a void at the corner of the top where the sealing mastic is attached.
I spaced the screws evenly. 8" from each end of the aluminum channel. 54" to the center and 31" to split the difference, as measured from the ends (23" from the screw located at 8" from the end).
BTW , you can see where that rails is tweaked a little in the center. I straightened it as best I could. The red end caps are to keep the wasps from nesting until I can grab some black caps to finish the bars.
I used an 1/8" drill for the holes and then installed 1" long #10 stainless steel screws. These will act more as a resistance to shear loads rather than offer a clamping force. Some "teeth biting in" to hold them on and resisting the lifting forces. I am sure clamping them down helps to hold them on the end caps where the lips snap over. I did have one corner cap that I had to remove and repair. It had cracked where it had stayed snapped to the rail as it lifted off. SikaFlexed the heck out of that and reinstalled.
Knowing what I do now, I would use a needle to inject some adhesive under the lips of the rails where ever possible. Maybe even using a plastic wedge along the bottom to open that void. Then drill the pilot holes for the screws and inject adhesive in those to seal the screws. I think I would be comfortable just installing the screws if I felt my rack was plenty good enough as-is.
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T.Low
Expedition Leader
Does anyone see a problem with mounting a moto tray on the rear of an E1 for a single moto?
My Gas Gas 450 enduro is 260 lbs dry. I'd like to haul an E1 with my AstroLander, and shudder at the thought of adding the 260 more lbs to the tongue weight. If I were to weld a receiver for a hitch onto each side of the rear frame (expecting to beef up the frame itself), and thus carry the moto tray on two prongs instead of a single prong, then adding a couple gas cans to the front tray, thus evening the weight distribution out a bit. Yet, staying well within the GVWR.
I've seen moto trays that are mounted are built with angled attatchment arms to hold the tray a bit higher as to not impede departure angle. Easy enough to do.
This set up would be used on nothing more than FS roads ro slow and careful two tracks. I mean, my astroLander is no rock crawler so...
Would that be asking two much of the unit? Could that contribute to trailer wobble?
HenryJ, mind boggling isn't it?
I was in the paddlesports industry for 15 years and it quickly became apparent that the rack companies may understand a weight rating, but had no idea regarding "sail effect" of boats and boxes that is inflicted upon these racks. Iv'e seen more than a hand ful of failures over the years, and for high speed driving, I tend to tie a bow line to the truck or trailer itself.
My Gas Gas 450 enduro is 260 lbs dry. I'd like to haul an E1 with my AstroLander, and shudder at the thought of adding the 260 more lbs to the tongue weight. If I were to weld a receiver for a hitch onto each side of the rear frame (expecting to beef up the frame itself), and thus carry the moto tray on two prongs instead of a single prong, then adding a couple gas cans to the front tray, thus evening the weight distribution out a bit. Yet, staying well within the GVWR.
I've seen moto trays that are mounted are built with angled attatchment arms to hold the tray a bit higher as to not impede departure angle. Easy enough to do.
This set up would be used on nothing more than FS roads ro slow and careful two tracks. I mean, my astroLander is no rock crawler so...
Would that be asking two much of the unit? Could that contribute to trailer wobble?
HenryJ, mind boggling isn't it?
I was in the paddlesports industry for 15 years and it quickly became apparent that the rack companies may understand a weight rating, but had no idea regarding "sail effect" of boats and boxes that is inflicted upon these racks. Iv'e seen more than a hand ful of failures over the years, and for high speed driving, I tend to tie a bow line to the truck or trailer itself.
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We have the Jayco version, a 2005 Baja 10Z model, 10' box with the smaller cargo deck similar to the E1.
I don't see it as an "expedition" vehicle per se, but it fits a niche that is perfect for my family's style of camping, which is primarily dispersed backroads camping in the vast areas of National Forests of Arizona. We moved to the popup after 30+ years of tent camping, so our basic camping style remains, we set up our kitchen and living areas outside, use the trailer primarily as comfortable sleeping quarters and with all the basic systems in place, propane, water and battery. I just went to the dual 6V battery setup, and will look to add a solar panel next year.
The lifted leaf spring and shock suspension tows easily, the thing is rock steady both at highway speeds and while going slow over more rugged terrain. It is big and heavy (3000 lb GVWR), so not something you would want to go rock crawling with, but the provided clearance gives peace of mind, and we have been able to pull it pretty much anywhere we wanted to go.
I will echo the others comments on build quality - the interior cabinetry is fairly haphazardly assembled. We have had to fix a few minor things but overall, we have had nothing significant fail.
I wouldn't consider it ideal for overnighting, the setup/teardown time must be considered, but as a base camp rig it suits our needs just fine.
A few pics from some of our trips
Edge of the Mogollon Rim
Sitgreaves NF:
On the road - Chiricahua Mountains:
Coconino NF:
Creative leveling:
In more civilized locale - South Carlsbad State Beach
I don't see it as an "expedition" vehicle per se, but it fits a niche that is perfect for my family's style of camping, which is primarily dispersed backroads camping in the vast areas of National Forests of Arizona. We moved to the popup after 30+ years of tent camping, so our basic camping style remains, we set up our kitchen and living areas outside, use the trailer primarily as comfortable sleeping quarters and with all the basic systems in place, propane, water and battery. I just went to the dual 6V battery setup, and will look to add a solar panel next year.
The lifted leaf spring and shock suspension tows easily, the thing is rock steady both at highway speeds and while going slow over more rugged terrain. It is big and heavy (3000 lb GVWR), so not something you would want to go rock crawling with, but the provided clearance gives peace of mind, and we have been able to pull it pretty much anywhere we wanted to go.
I will echo the others comments on build quality - the interior cabinetry is fairly haphazardly assembled. We have had to fix a few minor things but overall, we have had nothing significant fail.
I wouldn't consider it ideal for overnighting, the setup/teardown time must be considered, but as a base camp rig it suits our needs just fine.
A few pics from some of our trips
Edge of the Mogollon Rim
Sitgreaves NF:
On the road - Chiricahua Mountains:
Coconino NF:
Creative leveling:
In more civilized locale - South Carlsbad State Beach
Expedition Essentials
Approved Vendor : Expedition Essentials
I miss the Rim; Clints Well's for breakfast when camping, I know its cheating but damn that place has some killer breakfast!!!
Longtallsally
Adventurer
I'm thinking of doing the same to get a second bike on ours. In some discussions elsewhere, I think if you fabbed a healthy box steel rear bumper so a receiver hitch could be put in, you'd be there. Since the frame is fully boxed, you might get away with it. I'm a good ways out from doing it as I've got too many other projects, but when my wife starts riding again, and the little guy gets on his first one, I'll need it.
Here's ours just after pick up and on our first overnighter:
I have to disagree that it is not ideal for an overnighter. It takes just as long to setup and tear down as a tent, and is much faster than a family size tent (which usually takes 2 people at some point to be reasonably quick) and is of course much more comfy. I like the fact that I don't have to worry about storage. After years of camping from a motorcycle, I feel incredibly spoiled with this thing.
Longtallsally
Adventurer
The KLR is probably too heavy for the front deck isn't it? There is a guy over on ADV who is putting his 500EXC up there and all I want to get is the WR on ours (or a 500EXC is that's what I decide on for the next trail bike for me) and those are 100-150 lbs lighter than the killer.
My thoughts are to take a heavy gauge length of say 4x4 box steel and use that for the rear bumper. I could drill a hole for the pop up crank and also one for a receiver hitch that would be used for the bike carrier. Because the Evo frame is fully boxed, I'm thinking there isn't a huge need for trusses and supports all the way up (plus I don't want to have to remove the camper from the frame to do welding) so I think if I just correctly bolt and bolster as I can in the rear, I could do it. There won't be a huge need for it until my wife wants to start riding again, so there isn't a hurry since we've got PLENTY of storage in the mean time.
My thoughts are to take a heavy gauge length of say 4x4 box steel and use that for the rear bumper. I could drill a hole for the pop up crank and also one for a receiver hitch that would be used for the bike carrier. Because the Evo frame is fully boxed, I'm thinking there isn't a huge need for trusses and supports all the way up (plus I don't want to have to remove the camper from the frame to do welding) so I think if I just correctly bolt and bolster as I can in the rear, I could do it. There won't be a huge need for it until my wife wants to start riding again, so there isn't a hurry since we've got PLENTY of storage in the mean time.
getoutandplay
New member
Bought an E4 a Few Months Back
We picked up an E4 spontaneously and love it! In the four months we have had it we have camped out ten nights (2 adults and 3 children). We completely rebuilt the roof entirely just to be safe of the history of issues.
We picked up an E4 spontaneously and love it! In the four months we have had it we have camped out ten nights (2 adults and 3 children). We completely rebuilt the roof entirely just to be safe of the history of issues.