Flyer's '02 Tundra adventure build

[247oda_06trd]

I'm not sure what you mean by a side shot. If you can steer me in the right direction I'll be happy to snap some pix for you.

Sorry, i just wanted a front shot, i wanted to see if it sit flush with fender flares or not.

 

[Flyer69]

Sorry, i just wanted a front shot, i wanted to see if it sit flush with fender flares or not.

Now I understand. I will snap a couple photos for you this afternoon.

 

[Flyer69]

Sorry 247oda, I haven't forgotten about the pics... just been slammed at work. Hopefully tomorrow...

 

[High Country]

I forgot to mention that I was also running some 1.25" blocks with the old spring setup to level the truck. With the new leaf packs installed, the rear ride height measured at the fender flares was EXACTLY the same as with the old setup... pretty cool!

I made a shakedown trip to Big Sur last weekend. Fully loaded with all camping gear, fridge, firewood tub, my big Camp Chef stove setup, 2 full 20L MFC's and 5 gallons of water on the rear can rack (about 500 pounds), the rear ride height was 37".
View attachment 450615

I forgot to measure it before I loaded all the gear, so I measured it when I got back and unpacked all the camping gear. Both fuel cans were empty but there was still roughly 4 gallons in the water can. The empty ride height is 37.75". That's only 3/4" of compression... amazing!

View attachment 450624

The main point of all this was to get rid of the body roll and dead feel in the rear end and increase the load-carrying capability, and the new Deavers perform even better than I expected. The ride, both empty and loaded, is super smooth and lively. The body roll, which became more pronounced (due to changes in geometry) after I rebuilt the front end and added Camburg UCA's, is pretty much gone and my truck feels much safer. I couldn't be happier, and this upgrade was money very well spent.

View attachment 450620

Now I need to figure out the correct size shocks to run in the rear, as the travel has now been greatly increased. For now I'm still running 24" Bilsteins. Before reinstalling the lower shock mounting bolts, I let the rear end drop all the way and there was a 5" gap between the shock mount and the shock eye. I haven't checked out full compression yet, but I figure I can just measure the gap between the frame stop and the lower end of the Timbrens with the rear end at full droop and get the range. Please feel free to chime in if anyone has advice on how to choose the proper length shocks.

We have talked about this setup on the rear suspension thread... Figured I would ask the question here. Would you still tow your 23' trailer with this setup? What specifically does the shackle flip do, articulation? Does the shackle flip affect load carrying capacity? On Archive Garage's website he states: Requires trimming exhaust tailpipe! Did you need to do this? I have TRD Dual Exhaust on my Tundra, curious if mods would be needed. ??

When installing the shackle flip kit, did you have to drill your frame? If so, did you get the kit from Archive Garage and how did that part of the install go?

I think you have just about convinced me this is my end game.. Have you figured the correct rear shock yet?

 

[Flyer69]

"We have talked about this setup on the rear suspension thread... Figured I would ask the question here. Would you still tow your 23' trailer with this setup?"

With the AG/Deaver leaf pack, I would absolutely tow my 23' trailer if I still had it (I sold it last year). Handling is much improved overall.

"What specifically does the shackle flip do, articulation? Does the shackle flip affect load carrying capacity?"

I didn't do a shackle flip, I did a U-bolt flip. Perhaps I mis-spoke or you misread one of my posts?

"On Archive Garage's website he states: Requires trimming exhaust tailpipe! Did you need to do this? I have TRD Dual Exhaust on my Tundra, curious if mods would be needed. ??"

As far as trimming goes, it looks like you'd only have to trim the tailpipe, so yeah, you'd lose one of those sweet TRD tailpieces if you did a shackle flip.

"When installing the shackle flip kit, did you have to drill your frame? If so, did you get the kit from Archive Garage and how did that part of the install go?"

Check with Jose (toyotech) about the shackle flip install. Pretty sure he posted a write-up on his thread when he did his. I believe it required drilling and burned up a couple bits, but I think AG includes 2 in the kit or has them as an option.

"I think you have just about convinced me this is my end game.. Have you figured the correct rear shock yet?"

My understanding of the shackle flip is that it provides a bit more lift and a lot more articulation for those who push their trucks to the max. I'm honestly not that hardcore. For the kind of offroad exploration I do (fire roads, established trails, etc), the setup I have now is ideal. I just need to figure out the rear shocks, and may need to add limit straps.

I'd recommend starting with the leaf pack and see if that suits your style. Then if you want you can add the shackle flip later.


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[Flyer69]

I'm not sure what you mean by a side shot. If you can steer me in the right direction I'll be happy to snap some pix for you.

Sorry, i just wanted a front shot, i wanted to see if it sit flush with fender flares or not.

Ok, here's a couple shots of the front view. With the Ivan wheels, the tire is pretty much flush with the flare.

Another thing I learned is the Ivan wheels are 16"x8", while the factory wheels are 16"x7.5". Not sure how much this matters, but they did solve my frame rub issue with the new Coopers.

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[High Country]

With the AG/Deaver leaf pack, I would absolutely tow my 23' trailer if I still had it (I sold it last year). Handling is much improved overall.
I didn't do a shackle flip, I did a U-bolt flip. Perhaps I mis-spoke or you misread one of my posts?
As far as trimming goes, it looks like you'd only have to trim the tailpipe, so yeah, you'd lose one of those sweet TRD tailpieces if you did a shackle flip.

Check with Jose (toyotech) about the shackle flip install. Pretty sure he posted a write-up on his thread when he did his. I believe it required drilling and burned up a couple bits, but I think AG includes 2 in the kit or has them as an option.

My understanding of the shackle flip is that it provides a bit more lift and a lot more articulation for those who push their trucks to the max. I'm honestly not that hardcore. For the kind of offroad exploration I do (fire roads, established trails, etc), the setup I have now is ideal. I just need to figure out the rear shocks, and may need to add limit straps.

I'd recommend starting with the leaf pack and see if that suits your style. Then if you want you can add the shackle flip later.
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Ah yes, I read wrong.... U Bolt Flip vs Shackle Flip... sorry about that, mixed up a few threads there.. ...... The U Bolt flip allowed you to get the Timbrens in there? Looking at AG's website they show a few different options. Would you have gone with something like Option 4 if you didn't already have the Timbrens? How much of a difference do you feel the Timbrens make vs if you had just done the Leafs?

 

[Flyer69]

With the AG/Deaver leaf pack, I would absolutely tow my 23' trailer if I still had it (I sold it last year). Handling is much improved overall.
I didn't do a shackle flip, I did a U-bolt flip. Perhaps I mis-spoke or you misread one of my posts?
As far as trimming goes, it looks like you'd only have to trim the tailpipe, so yeah, you'd lose one of those sweet TRD tailpieces if you did a shackle flip.

Check with Jose (toyotech) about the shackle flip install. Pretty sure he posted a write-up on his thread when he did his. I believe it required drilling and burned up a couple bits, but I think AG includes 2 in the kit or has them as an option.

My understanding of the shackle flip is that it provides a bit more lift and a lot more articulation for those who push their trucks to the max. I'm honestly not that hardcore. For the kind of offroad exploration I do (fire roads, established trails, etc), the setup I have now is ideal. I just need to figure out the rear shocks, and may need to add limit straps.

I'd recommend starting with the leaf pack and see if that suits your style. Then if you want you can add the shackle flip later.
Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk

Ah yes, I read wrong.... U Bolt Flip vs Shackle Flip... sorry about that, mixed up a few threads there.. ...... The U Bolt flip allowed you to get the Timbrens in there? Looking at AG's website they show a few different options. Would you have gone with something like Option 4 if you didn't already have the Timbrens? How much of a difference do you feel the Timbrens make vs if you had just done the Leafs?

I did the bolt flip kit just to clean things up. I hated those old bolt ends hanging down exposed to snag on stuff. I already had the timbrens so I chose the option that let me keep them. I originally got them to help with trailering, but now they are really just glorious bump stops because the arch of the new leaf pack gives another 1.5"+ of travel (no more blocks=more clearance) . It's also nice insurance in case I ever compress my springs that much.

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[toyotech]

So today this happened...
I've always wanted a set of these Ivan Stewart wheels, and I randomly found a brand new set on ebay for a great price. I'm super stoked on the new look, and remember that annoying little tire rubbing issue with the new Coopers? Well, its GONE! Supposedly the offset is exactly the same as the old wheels, but evidently it's not.

By the way, the seller has at least one more new set of these wheels, but I don't want to post his info publicly here, so PM me if you're interested and I'll put you in touch.

Deaver 10-packs should be here Saturday....

Will these ivan wheels work with 05-06 with tpms sensor?

The TPMS should work with the Ivan wheels.


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[toyotech]

I forgot to mention that I was also running some 1.25" blocks with the old spring setup to level the truck. With the new leaf packs installed, the rear ride height measured at the fender flares was EXACTLY the same as with the old setup... pretty cool!

I made a shakedown trip to Big Sur last weekend. Fully loaded with all camping gear, fridge, firewood tub, my big Camp Chef stove setup, 2 full 20L MFC's and 5 gallons of water on the rear can rack (about 500 pounds), the rear ride height was 37".
View attachment 450615

I forgot to measure it before I loaded all the gear, so I measured it when I got back and unpacked all the camping gear. Both fuel cans were empty but there was still roughly 4 gallons in the water can. The empty ride height is 37.75". That's only 3/4" of compression... amazing!

View attachment 450624

The main point of all this was to get rid of the body roll and dead feel in the rear end and increase the load-carrying capability, and the new Deavers perform even better than I expected. The ride, both empty and loaded, is super smooth and lively. The body roll, which became more pronounced (due to changes in geometry) after I rebuilt the front end and added Camburg UCA's, is pretty much gone and my truck feels much safer. I couldn't be happier, and this upgrade was money very well spent.

View attachment 450620

Now I need to figure out the correct size shocks to run in the rear, as the travel has now been greatly increased. For now I'm still running 24" Bilsteins. Before reinstalling the lower shock mounting bolts, I let the rear end drop all the way and there was a 5" gap between the shock mount and the shock eye. I haven't checked out full compression yet, but I figure I can just measure the gap between the frame stop and the lower end of the Timbrens with the rear end at full droop and get the range. Please feel free to chime in if anyone has advice on how to choose the proper length shocks.

We have talked about this setup on the rear suspension thread... Figured I would ask the question here. Would you still tow your 23' trailer with this setup? What specifically does the shackle flip do, articulation? Does the shackle flip affect load carrying capacity? On Archive Garage's website he states: Requires trimming exhaust tailpipe! Did you need to do this? I have TRD Dual Exhaust on my Tundra, curious if mods would be needed. ??

When installing the shackle flip kit, did you have to drill your frame? If so, did you get the kit from Archive Garage and how did that part of the install go?

I think you have just about convinced me this is my end game.. Have you figured the correct rear shock yet?

Shackle flip kit does require drilling iirc two additional holes on each side. Flip shackle allows for more flex and can affect load capacity. Not sure if it's positive or negative in weight but my buddy with a taco said his load capacity increased with the flip.
The flip kit does require tail pipe to be cut just before the leaf spring as it would hit.


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[High Country]

Shackle flip kit does require drilling iirc two additional holes on each side. Flip shackle allows for more flex and can affect load capacity. Not sure if it's positive or negative in weight but my buddy with a taco said his load capacity increased with the flip.
The flip kit does require tail pipe to be cut just before the leaf spring as it would hit.


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Thanks @toyotech . I think I will just do the Leaf Pack to start.

 

[DirtAddictLC80]

Got my second set of Cooper ST MAXX in 285/75/16 on my Tundra and can't complain. Good wear, seems to be good grip on off road. Can't say too much about snow since I only see the stuff once every two or three years. I went with the ST Maxx due to the spacing between lugs and that they work well on pavement at the same time. It would be great if Expo could do another tire test like the one they did before. Expo Tire Test. This time include the ST Maxx.

Great thread and discussion on suspension for the gen 1 Tundras. Nice to see more expo builds using these rigs.

Speaking of the Expo Tire Test, the Cooper AT3 got rave reviews there. But as MobTuff mentioned, it would be great to see an updated tire test with the ST Maxx in it, or maybe do a new tire test dedicated to AT/MT hybrids?

I have a 2004 DC Tundra and currently run Cooper AT3. I've had them on for about 35K miles and they are at their wear limit. Traction-wise, these tires have done great for me on road and in the dry desert. I have no complaints driving on road in wet weather either. Unfortunately I haven't taken them in the snow, nor have I run them in significant mud, so don't have any first-hand experience there.

Unfortunately, my tires are chewed up pretty bad from traveling off road (e.g. full camping load running Mojave, Anza Borrego, etc.). To be fair, my truck was initially set up for light duty, so I chose p-rated tires. That was a mistake on my part...I should have gotten LT rated, although I am not sure how much that would have helped.

So, my main gripe with the AT3 is durability, especially traveling in desert/rocky terrain. Again, this may not be fair because I have p-rated tires. Still, in my opinion, the AT3 will serve well for those looking for a more street oriented tire that sees light off road use. The ST Maxx has the stronger carcass and is built for more severe duty. It also *looks* like it will do better in muddy conditions.

For my next tire purchase I am probably going to try the ST Maxx for the stronger sidewall and durability. I like the more aggressive tread as well, but I must admit that, traction-wise, the AT3 did fine in the conditions I ran it in.

In addition to the ST Maxx, there are a few more AT/MT hybrids to choose from. Toyo R/T and Nitto Ridge Grapplers come to mind. I'm sure there are others.

 

[Flyer69]

Looking around under the hood, I realized (shamefully) that I couldn't remember the last time I changed my spark plugs. I went ahead and ordered a set of factory spec plugs on Amazon:

NGK (7990) BKR6EYA V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CJ5Z7W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

As I started removing the old plugs, I discovered 6 of the 8 were literally only finger tight! This explains why I've been getting such crappy mileage. I have a lot of extra weight and windage bolted on, but averaging 14-15 on the highway seems way low. Also, the old plugs were pretty significantly worn, leading to more shame and needing a couple beers. See pics below...

After installing the new and correctly-gapped plugs, I now average around 17 mpg on the highway according to the ScanGauge, which I think is pretty good for my rig.

A couple days later, my check engine light went on for the first time ever! The ScanGauge has an OBD computer built in, so I was able to check the code instantly. A quick Google search of the code indicated a vacuum port leak, and when I popped the hood i saw that indeed one of the vacuum hoses had been pulled loose while i was installing the new plugs. Once I reconnected the hose, I cleared the code on the ScanGauge and the check engine light went off. Super cool!
Here's a link to the one for the gen 1 Tundras, if anyone is interested.
ScanGauge SGIIFFP Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges (Frustration Free) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VX2NOK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nH2dBbPJ6XZH9

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[Onegen]

Thanks for sharing, this is all great stuff

 

[Lotsoftoys]

Digging how thorough u are man... it's all great info like he said^^^ maybe u or @toyotech Toyota can answer... is the spring pack you got from AG the same pack as people get when doing the shackle flip? Or are they different packs?