Fold down table for rear door?
- Thread starter ssssnake529
- Start date
craig
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I don't think Marc used SketchUp.
Just pull your existing door panel off and use it as a template. I cut mine out of aluminum then filed the edges until it fit perfectly. That's the easy part.
Figuring out exactly where to put rivnuts into the door and getting everything aligned/level takes a lot more patience. I must have had mine on/off the rear door 25x by the time I was finished.
Just go for it.
Craig
Just pull your existing door panel off and use it as a template. I cut mine out of aluminum then filed the edges until it fit perfectly. That's the easy part.
Figuring out exactly where to put rivnuts into the door and getting everything aligned/level takes a lot more patience. I must have had mine on/off the rear door 25x by the time I was finished.
Just go for it.
Craig
Steve Rupp
Observer
This is what makes it such a pain. The door needs rivnuts to hold the skin but other things need to be drilled larger so that it can be pulled off later if needed. I can see someone putting the skin on and then drilling holes and riveting the hinge and brackets to it while it's on the door essentially riveting it all to the door itself. It's not hard, just a bunch of taking on and off.
I am clearly missing something here and sincerely appreciate everyones input and advice. I will likely be PMing some of you.
Is it not possible to install rivnuts in the door assembly where the current trim pins go? I can see how lining up and drilling bolts in the skin would suck, but you could use the old door skin to help in this. Also what holes need to be made bigger for easo of removal of door skin in the future? Aren't the rivnuts the only thing the skin is attached to?
Everything attached to the skin is just rivetted onto the skin and not the door so unbolt the 20 or so bolts and it should pop off right? What gauge steel are we using for the skin 16/18/20. Those of you with prolonged use, have you seen any fatiguing of the metal by the hinges or elsewhere. Anything you wish you had differently?
For those of you with rear seats, any special care required to remove either the tailgate handle or the tailgate grab bar?
I've used aluminum rivets before and can't seem to get a really supertight fit with them, they have a little play in them sometimes, anyone got a recommendation or advice on how to prevent this?
-Sam
Is it not possible to install rivnuts in the door assembly where the current trim pins go? I can see how lining up and drilling bolts in the skin would suck, but you could use the old door skin to help in this. Also what holes need to be made bigger for easo of removal of door skin in the future? Aren't the rivnuts the only thing the skin is attached to?
Everything attached to the skin is just rivetted onto the skin and not the door so unbolt the 20 or so bolts and it should pop off right? What gauge steel are we using for the skin 16/18/20. Those of you with prolonged use, have you seen any fatiguing of the metal by the hinges or elsewhere. Anything you wish you had differently?
For those of you with rear seats, any special care required to remove either the tailgate handle or the tailgate grab bar?
I've used aluminum rivets before and can't seem to get a really supertight fit with them, they have a little play in them sometimes, anyone got a recommendation or advice on how to prevent this?
-Sam
He is a quiet, eccentric figure who rarely surfaces on the net, but when he does, one would be wise to take his words seriously.
benlittle
Adventurer
craig
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Sounds like you were using a nutsert instead of a rivnut. A good rivnut collapses on the backside and completely sandwiches the metal you are rivnutting through.
Chazz Layne
Administrator
Hmm... now that gives me an idea. What about making the new door skin itself be the shelf by just putting a hinge along the bottom and a latch on the top and/or sides? You could then clean out and seal the innards of the tail door (trimming as needed for access) and turn it into extra storage for assorted kitchen goodies. I bet a Jetboil, fuel, small lantern, paper towels, dishes and utensils would fit just right. For light, the third brake light housing could easily be fitted with some recessed LEDs. I might just have to try this...
In the case of the Columbia Overland panel, correct on all counts. It reuses the existing holes, then can be removed by just unscrewing it (held on by machine screws).
Viggen
Just here...
I be not. If youve never pulled the trim off the back door, you should and youll notice that there is a lot of door stiffening braces not to mention the lock cylinder/ actuator and the rear wiper mechanism. There isnt in real life.
It uses most of the original mounting holes but not all of them and they have to be drilled out to a slightly larger size for the rivnuts that are included in the kit. I put a little bit of two part epoxy on each one to make sure that they do not rattle and do not spin while tightening down. Very pleased with mine.
craig
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Some say he's the Stig.
Even with all that you could still put some stuff in the rear door, since the tailgate window doesnt roll down, you could still stuff some objects into the rear door.
I like chazz's idea, however i would still have a door skin as when you are chopping or preparing, its nice to have a backsplash and not have carrots, etc falling into the door panel.
-Sam
ruditron
Adventurer
and it goes a lil somethin like this.......
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...698960673380_1218791070_1907940_3924675_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...698959313346_1218791070_1907935_1681045_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...698960673380_1218791070_1907940_3924675_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...698959313346_1218791070_1907935_1681045_n.jpg
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