Full Size Truck/Expedition Truck Concept Vehicle

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I'm starting a build on my Ford F250 Crew Cab with a 7 Ft Bed (2.13M).

F250.jpg


The concept is to have a truck that will function as the owners daily drive or work truck and can be easily set up into an expedition vehicle.

I'll be covering the concept and design in detail in an up coming article. This post is to cover the nuts and bolts behind it, and to share some of the thought behind the design of expedition based vehicles.

I picked the vehicle up last year primarily to tow horse trailers but my intent has always been to make this vehicle multi-purpose.

camping.jpg


The F250 came with an older Wildernest Camper Shell on the bed, the tent is on it's last legs so I've been using it primarily as a shell. It sits on stock tires and rims.

Modifications done earlier this year:


plug.jpg


One of the first modifications I did was to install a Marine grade shore plug into the front bumper. I then wired the stock block heater to the plug.

charger.jpg


I also installed a marine grade battery charger and wired it to the shore plug. In the winter I plug an extension cord with a timer on it from the 110 v in the garage to the vehicle. I give it 1.5 hours of heating and charging time in the morning. The result is warm oil and coolant as well as a fully charged battery when I start her up in 14˚F / -10˚C weather.



While I was installing the battery charger I put a Battery Bug Smart Battery Sensor on one of the batteries to monitor it.

scangauge.jpg


I used the Ford factory kit for installing a 7 Pin RV trailer plug and installed a Tekonsha P2 brake controller in the cab. The only other modification on the interior was the installation of a ScanGauge2 Automotive Computer. I really like this tool and I'll go into some depth later on how I use it.
 
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Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
More recent modifications:

I was down in Prescott at our shop for 3 weeks recently and during that time I spent the evenings and a few Sundays working on the truck.

outlets.jpg


The first thing I did was to run 12 volt back into the bed for the fridge and accessories. It runs direct from a fused connection from the battery all the way to the passenger’ s rear of the vehicle and provides two linked outlets.

steps.jpg


I also installed CR Brophy’s folding aluminum steps that attach to the tailgate allowing easy access to the bed.

The next modification was the installation of an airbag system on the rear axle. The F250 should sit with the nose slightly down and then when weight is placed in the bed or on the hitch it will settle to level. I believe this truck was fitted with front lift springs and with the weight of the Wildernest the truck sat with the rear end low. When I towed a horse trailer the rear end really dragged.

airbag.jpg


I used an Air Lift kit specific for the truck, it came complete with air bags, bracket, fittings and air line. The fitment was relatively straight forward. I also got a small compressor from Air Lift for inflating the bags but haven’t decided if or where I’m going to install it. I ran the air line to the rear bumper and can inflate each bag separately from there. The overall result is that the truck now sits level and seems to ride better. It also gives me the ability to level the truck out when we are camped on uneven ground.

AT carries a line of RV products made by Thule and I’ve always liked their clip on tables. I had decided to create a kitchen at the rear of the truck on the passenger side, so the first step was to fit the table.

table.jpg


The table attaches to the truck utilizing two clips that I secured in place using threaded inserts into the body. When not in use the clips are covered with caps. It’s a quick elegant solution for a kitchen table.

clips.jpg
 
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Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The major modification

The major modification that has taken place is phase one of the storage in the bed of the truck. I'm going to be covering this in some detail later, but basically the design has to fit various parameters:

1) The size and shape of the bed itself
2) The size and shape of any containers you intend to use
3) The intended usage
4) In my case the concept of easy removal

Suffice it to say it's many hours of work with not much initially to show for it, lots of staring and thinking.

The end result was a 3 piece prototype storage system built as a proof of concept. The prototype is build from OSB, the end product will be build from our Fiberthane composite.

It consists of:

1) A chest up against the front of the bed. The chest is narrow enough to slide back through the wheel wells.

frontstorage.jpg


2) A drivers side storage unit that is open for access from the side, it is designed to hold containers such as stackables. It extends from the tailgate forward over the wheel well and meets the chest in the front of the bed.

driverstorage.jpg


3) A passengers side storage unit that consists of an area for the Engel 45 fridge on a full slide, fitting in with the kitchen concept, and a small chest over the wheel well.

passopen.jpg


4) Two small storage areas on either side of the front chest that are accessed through removable top panels.

The front chest and two side chests are each held in place using threaded inserts in the bed of the truck, bolts and washers through the base hold the units in place. The removal of 12 bolts will allow all of the storage components to be removed.
 
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Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The future build

I have an AT FlipPac on order for the truck. It's color matched to the vehicle and will replace the Wildernest. The AT FlipPac will have a Windoor in the passenger side and a solid wall on the driver's side.

With the AT FlipPac in place the storage that is now in the vehicle will be replicated in Fiberthane Composite. I will then build more storage on top of the lower storage unit on the driver side. It will extend up all the way to the roof line of the AT FlipPac and will comprise of open storage for soft sided units, storage for the table,chairs, and a HiLift. The top will be a work surface at waist height for cooking and food preparation if the weather turns bad.

On the interior I will be installing a water system, propane heater, LED lights, National Luna Power Pack, and mosquito net for the rear opening. I'm starting to plan out the installation of an on board Extreme air system.

On the exterior I'm planning on replacing the front bumper with something offering more protection, and possibly a replacement rear bumper. I'll be fitting a snorkel, new shock absorbers, and LED reverse/camp lights. For Expedition I'll be using some 255-85-16 tires.

The side steps that are on the truck right now will have to be removed and replaced with sliders. To set the truck off I'm thinking of using a wrap on the exterior.

Ultimately this will be a show vehicle and if all goes as planned will be at SEMA, and should be ready for the Overland Rally in Hollister CA this September. I'll also be using it for trailer deliveries, local show, pulling horse trailers, carrying lumber, and a daily drive.
 

1speed

Explorer
It would be better if it was a Dodge, but what the heck, I'll watch and see how it turns out anyway. :sombrero:
 

alan

Explorer
I’m starting a build on my Ford F250 Crew Cab with a 7 Ft Bed (2.13M).

F250.jpg


The concept is to have a truck that will function as the owners daily drive or work truck and can be easily set up into an expedition vehicle.

I’ll be covering the concept and design in detail in an up coming article. This post is to cover the nuts and bolts behind it, and to share some of the thought behind the design of expedition based vehicles.

I picked the vehicle up last year primarily to tow horse trailers but my intent has always been to make this vehicle multi-purpose.

camping.jpg


The F250 came with an older Wildernest Camper Shell on the bed, the tent is on it’s last legs so I’ve been using it primarily as a shell. It sits on stock tires and rims.

Modifications done earlier this year:


plug.jpg


One of the first modifications I did was to install a Marine grade shore plug into the front bumper. I then wired the stock block heater to the plug.

charger.jpg


I also installed a marine grade battery charger and wired it to the shore plug. In the winter I plug an extension cord with a timer on it from the 110 v in the garage to the vehicle. I give it 1.5 hours of heating and charging time in the morning. The result is warm oil and coolant as well as a fully charged battery when I start her up in 14˚F / -10˚C weather.



While I was installing the battery charger I put a Battery Bug Smart Battery Sensor on one of the batteries to monitor it.

scangauge.jpg


I used the Ford factory kit for installing a 7 Pin RV trailer plug and installed a Tekonsha P2 brake controller in the cab. The only other modification on the interior was the installation of a ScanGauge2 Automotive Computer. I really like this tool and I’ll go into some depth later on how I use it.




What do you think of the battery bug? good or bad?

I was involved developing these at the start, we had a wireless version with sensors on each battery and reciever display in vehicle.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
What do you think of the battery bug? good or bad?

I was involved developing these at the start, we had a wireless version with sensors on each battery and reciever display in vehicle.

So far I like the Battery Bug.

It monitors the voltage of the battery and charge system, along with checking the voltage during cranking. It also displays the % of life left in the battery.

As I have a double battery bank I really should wire it up to the negative on one battery and the positive on the other, but I haven't got around to that yet.
 
Terrific beginning. I'm just starting to design my bed set-up and I'll definitely be watching this one closely. I'm working on attending the rally in Hollister in Sept...hope you'll be able to bring the truck with you! :sombrero:
 

Outback

Explorer
Ill be stuck somewhere other tha in Hollister in September. Wish I could make it and see Martyn build. I too am trying to figure out my back bed arrangement. This should be a great build to watch.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Nice build. I like the canopy I just wish they made a version simlar to the A.R.E DCU with side bins.

I like the table idea. I was looking at them on the trailers here and I was deciding to mount on the lip of the tailgate.

I really like the steps as well. Do you have a picture of how much space they take up when folded up.

I was looking at one from northern tool.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0637557926&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

stepsclosed.jpg


steps.jpg

The 4 step stairs fold up to 25" W x 13" H x 10 D (635mm x 330mm x 254mm). CR Brophy makes them in 2, 3, 4 and 5 step configurations depending on the height of the tailgate from the ground.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Planning and Layout

Looking into the empty bed the truck and trying to envision the layout is hard work. In my case I was looking at 41 sq ft of nothing and trying to envision the finished product.

planning.jpg


The first thing I did was to lay out lines of masking tape 2 ft in from the bed, then I sat inside the bed and tried to get a feel for what this floor plan would be like. The 2ft deep chest at the front of the bed worked well as it sat just in front of the wheel, and the two side units allowed for a 20” (508mm) aisle in the middle.

planning1.jpg


I worked with various size containers and laid them out in various configurations to get an exact cabinet layout. It’s best to layout all the things you want to carry with you to get an idea of the sizes and shapes of everything. Items like chairs, tables, Hi Lift Jacks, and propane cylinders all need to be worked into the design.

planning2.jpg


Using CAD.

Many of you know CAD as Computer Aided Design and it’s what we use for designing our composite storage. But in this case it means "Cardboard Aided Design" :sombrero:, it’s our way to do fast prototyping.

As the Ford has curved sides to the interior of the bed and the wheel wells curve as they meet the floor I had to make L shaped bases for the side cabinets. To get the shape correct I cut cardboard to the rough shape and then trimmed it until it sat flat and neatly on the bed of the truck. Newspaper will work as well.

planning3.jpg


With the bases cut and in position I was able to finalize the shape and size of the back walls, middle supports and front walls and build the cabinets. Again I used the high tech Cardboard Aided Design method to get everything just right. Where the cabinet was meeting contoured surfaces I found it’s best to leave about ¼” (6mm) for some wiggle room.

Many of our customers who want us to make custom storage solution for their vehicles, but are unable to come out to our shop for a fitment, use this technique and then send us the cardboard or paper templates.
 

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