Gen 2.5 Front Cam Seals

[jms_brns]

I am getting ready to replace my leaky cam seals using the FSM, but just wanted to reach out to everyone here for any advice or useful info. I've searched through the forums here and 4X4Wire to see if there are any detailed write-ups, but haven't found any. If anyone knows of any please let me know... this will definitely be the most in depth work I've done to date.

Reason for the replacement is the oil all over my alternator, which I'm hoping is causing some of the random electrical issues I've seen, like the intermittently functional compass, and my constantly moving gas gauge. Anything else I should look for while I'm working on it? The TB and WP were done within the last 15-20k miles so I don't plan on redoing those.

From recommendations on the Wire I ended up buying Fel-Pro front seals from RockAuto a while back, but then saw someone here say only to use OEM. Any further advice or experiences there?

 

[normal_dave]

Wise advice on the OEM in this particular case.
http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/6ri8z-mitsubishi-montero-sport-es-2003-montero-sport.html
Just a few pointers, drill a small hole in the side of the old seal, drive in a screw to be able to pull the old seal. Take care not to damage the head. Note how far in the old one is, short piece of pvc pipe the right size will drive the new one back in, too far in and you'll be in trouble. If you already did the timing belt, you could use the holding tool on the cam gear this time. check pricing on rchillmitsubishi.com on the seals.

 

[jaccox23]

sadly in order to do the cam seal you will need to remove the timing belt and then your tensioner will either need to be replaced or properly pressed back in. unless your lucky and can get the grenade pin back in while the timing belt is still on. Then you'll have to put the timing belt back on and get everything to line up (this is the most difficult part). Also hope you have a way to remove and retorque the crank bolt (hopefully the new one w/updated washer too). The passenger cam has a ton of spring load on it so no sticking your fingers anywhere quesionable around that sprocket. This is the worst maintenace item i've encountered with these motors outside of valve stem seals with the heads still on. also use an old timing belt as a source of leverage when removing the sprocket (zip ties will be your friend) also removing that seal is a royal pain due to how stuck in there it really is. then pressing a new one in is a tedious process to make sure its in straight (had to do mine twice on that side). I know this sounds intimidating but it's worth doing on your own to learn about your old girl and if I'm correct you said in another post you have a 2nd vehicle so time isn't your enemy. also there are youtube vids of people replacing these seals on other mitsubishis with the 3.5 6g74 so just scour the land of youtube and you will get an idea of the job.

 

[snare]

The OEM seals are part number MD372536. I ordered mine on Amazon below, which is RC Hill Mitsubishi in DeLand, FL. They also are mitsubishipartswarehouse.com

https://www.amazon.com/OUTLANDER-GE...=UTF8&qid=1485009812&sr=8-2&keywords=MD372536

I stopped there when i was in Florida, there were very nice and helpful.

And, by the way, the other "Mitsubishi MD372536" cam seals offered that pop up on the Amazon link's "stuff other people bought for $2 each, are not genuine OEM at all, even though their word them to be so. I ordered them and they were not OEM.

 

[jms_brns]

Thanks for all the advice guys!
@jaccox23, about half way through your post I started thinking, "Uh oh, I'm in over my head..." But I think you're right, it'll be worth it to be more familiar with the vehicle, even if it takes me a couple weeks. Hopefully I just don't majorly screw anything up!

Based on the recommendations here I stopped by Mark Mitsubishi in Scottsdale and got the OEM front seals. Both front seals totaled $29, so it was basically a wash between the dealer and the Amazon link.
Picked up some Diamond SP-III while I was there, for a tranny flush.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[coffeegoat]

JMS, check out my build (in my signature), it's for a gen three but it has the same 3.5 engine. I tore it all the way down to the block, did all the seals and built it back up with something like 70 pictures. It was really the most in depth thing I've ever done but if you're in no hurry and you're careful it is certainly doable. You can skip some of the steps as I don't recommend pulling the heads, but I would be sure to do the valve seals able you're in there, they're easy and cheap. They were like 2.50 on rock auto the other day.

 

[jms_brns]

JMS, check out my build (in my signature), it's for a gen three but it has the same 3.5 engine. I tore it all the way down to the block, did all the seals and built it back up with something like 70 pictures. It was really the most in depth thing I've ever done but if you're in no hurry and you're careful it is certainly doable. You can skip some of the steps as I don't recommend pulling the heads, but I would be sure to do the valve seals able you're in there, they're easy and cheap. They were like 2.50 on rock auto the other day.

Thanks @coffeegoat, I went through your whole write up Saturday night before digging into mine on Sunday. Great job documenting everything with pictures, detailed instructions, and additional tips!
I noticed you mentioned doing the valve seals and lifters while doing the timing belt. I had the valve seals done by someone else last month, but how do I know if the lifters need to be done? I'm kind of assuming since I don't know when, if ever, they've been inspected/serviced I should just take the time to do it while I'm in there.

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[jms_brns]

JMS, check out my build (in my signature), it's for a gen three but it has the same 3.5 engine. I tore it all the way down to the block, did all the seals and built it back up with something like 70 pictures. It was really the most in depth thing I've ever done but if you're in no hurry and you're careful it is certainly doable. You can skip some of the steps as I don't recommend pulling the heads, but I would be sure to do the valve seals able you're in there, they're easy and cheap. They were like 2.50 on rock auto the other day.

Also, did I read that right in your post, that you just used a HF strap wrench to hold the camshaft sprockets rather than Mitsubishi's "special tool"?

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[coffeegoat]

Yep - the HF strap wrench plus impact driver worked great to get those off, and the strap wrench was a big help with doing "slight" adjustments to the timing. It was a $5 bet so I figured why not? I tried to avoid/make all the specialized tools, it's not that I don't want good tools, I just don't want to buy tools that I use once every 5 years and have them cluttering up the garage...

Getting the crank bolt off is something else entirely, there was actually another recent thread on that topic.

 

[jaccox23]

If your lifters don't tick like a diesel truck you can pretty much assume they are good for the time being. Bad thing is getting to the lifters means taking the intake off and the plugs out (might as well replace at this point with wires too) and then the valve covers which are a real pain to get back on without over or under torque. if you dive that far post back up for some more tips and tricks lol. But yea I'd never been that deep on an engine in my life and especially by myself and i was royally terrified after i got everything off lol as to putting it back together. I did timing belt lifters valve seals and water pump as well as all new cooling hoses from the fire wall to the radiator (which i had pressure and flow checked and professionally cleaned while it was out). Sadly everything cooling wise is new except the heater core so guess what... it's leaking now so as soon as my new one arrives (those things are hella expensive too) i'll be pulling the dash finangleing a few of my LED that have come loose and cleaning all my vents and replaceing the heater core before the coldest months come.

 

[jlocster]

jms, while you're replacing the cam seals, if you haven't already, I'd suggest you replace your front crank seal, as well.

 

[jms_brns]

Hey guys, thanks again for all the information and recommendations. Originally I wasn't planning on doing the timing belt since it was done relatively recently and doesn't look bad, however, I'm now just leaning toward replacing it. Is this also the type of item that I should get OEM only ($99.99 is the cheapest I've found), or is this safe to get from AutoZone/O'Reilly's/RockAuto? If aftermarket belts are ok, does anyone have suggestions/recommendations on a specific brand? Currently leaning toward this one:
http://www.autozone.com/engine/timi...-timing-belt/707779_550620_2358?checkfit=true

Also, @coffeegoat and @jaccox, do you have any more specific info about the actual installation procedure for the cam seals using the PVC pipe? Pipe size, etc...

Sorry for all the questions, but being extremely inexperienced in this area, I really want to make sure I get this right.

 

[coffeegoat]

Notes:

• Aisin timing belt/water pump kit from rock auto is great, tensioner probably isn't included and should be OEM
• Make absolutely sure you have the updated crank bolt (Jaccox mentioned it already, but it's vitally important)
• My parts list is found here it may have answers for some of the parts questions
• Nothing special about the PVC pipe, it was lying around the garage and it fit, I think it's a 1.5", but really anything will do that fits
• Grease up the seal, align it with your finger and use the PVC to gently slide it into place, it's easier than it sounds
• Definitely don't worry about replacing your lifters, they're $20 a piece and you've got 24! It is worth cleaning them, it's easy to do tutorial is here
• Not doing the valve seals because they were recently done will save a bunch of time.
• Normal_dave mentioned the method I used to pull the front crank seal, I used a self drilling sheet metal screw, it worked OK, very nerve wracking though..

 

[jaccox23]

@Coffeegoat hit it on the head and a Gates kit with the belt is what I used mixed with an OEM tensioner (~$130 for safe insurance is a deal to me) and i believe the piece of PVC i used was 2" but i could be wrong I work at a water Plant so PVC is plentiful for the snagging and i found a piece in a scrap bucket. If you want to make sure it's perfectly straight i took a small piece of barstock and drilled a hole big enough to fit the cam bolt through and make it to where i just tighten the cam bolt and the barstock pressed evenly on the piece of PVC to seat it. I am at work now and don't think i have a pic of the set up but maybe the description can paint a pic in your head

 

[snare]

Here is a known quality timing belt kit with OEM company parts

https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKM-00...2-193-3-0&sr=1-23&ymm=1998:mitsubishi:montero

or

https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKM-00...2-193-3-0&sr=1-29&ymm=1998:mitsubishi:montero

note the different water pump parts, one is the complete pump, the other is part of it.