Gen 3 - Replacing OEM speakers

[Swank Force One]

Thank so much for the help!

 

[All-Terrain]

For the rear sub, according to the other forums, it's fairly easy to remove them but time consuming as you need to remove the 3rd row seats and be careful about the clips. I haven't had the chance to tackle this yet due to if I am going to replace the amp this go around or not.

With regards to the door speakers, it's fairly straight forward with just clips and screws to deal with.

Is there a link somewhere, especially for the sub?

 

[jasonsuperb]

Your main goal is going to be to remove the two interior panels that are back there to expose the subwoofer. These two panels being the one covering the subwoofer and the panel above it. The top panel must be removed first because it overlaps the bottom one. for the most part the top panel just pops out, there are clips along the edges that need to be released. Also there are screws in the middle where what i believe is the cover for the back is inserted. The bottom panel is a bit more tedious to remove. First the rear seat has to be removed. If the carpet is peeled back you will see several screws that need to be removed. Two screws will have to be removed from a carpeted piece of platic that runs the width of the vehicle in order to fold it back. This piece is part of the open area that houses the third seat. Also, near the rear door there are two more screws that are hidden. There is a hook/latch that will need to be removed in the corner in order to release a small patch of carpeted plastic that covers one screw. You're going to need a socket set for this. Also, the plastic cover that runs along the rear door will have to be removed because its leftmost section covers a screw. This should pop off after you realease all of the clips. The top panel that was removed in the beginning was covering several screws on the top of this panel that needed to be removed also. After that you should be able to remove the panel. You will now see that the subwoofer is bolted and glued into the vehicle. Remove the bolts and you might have to pry the sub off with a little bit of force because of the glue. You should be good to go after that. Hope this helps for anybody that might be looking.

From a post in this thread http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t16402-access-rear-speaker-in-a-2001-montero-limited.htm


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[plh]

Your main goal is going to be to remove the two interior panels that are back there to expose the subwoofer. These two panels being the one covering the subwoofer and the panel above it. The top panel must be removed first because it overlaps the bottom one. for the most part the top panel just pops out, there are clips along the edges that need to be released. Also there are screws in the middle where what i believe is the cover for the back is inserted. The bottom panel is a bit more tedious to remove. First the rear seat has to be removed. If the carpet is peeled back you will see several screws that need to be removed. Two screws will have to be removed from a carpeted piece of platic that runs the width of the vehicle in order to fold it back. This piece is part of the open area that houses the third seat. Also, near the rear door there are two more screws that are hidden. There is a hook/latch that will need to be removed in the corner in order to release a small patch of carpeted plastic that covers one screw. You're going to need a socket set for this. Also, the plastic cover that runs along the rear door will have to be removed because its leftmost section covers a screw. This should pop off after you realease all of the clips. The top panel that was removed in the beginning was covering several screws on the top of this panel that needed to be removed also. After that you should be able to remove the panel. You will now see that the subwoofer is bolted and glued into the vehicle. Remove the bolts and you might have to pry the sub off with a little bit of force because of the glue. You should be good to go after that. Hope this helps for anybody that might be looking.

From a post in this thread http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t16402-access-rear-speaker-in-a-2001-montero-limited.htm


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Like others have said, its not hard, just tedious. Lots of screws and some are a little hidden. Take your time and keep the screws orderly during removal so you can put them in the correct spots during assembly. A warmer day helps if your doing it outside because the plastic panels are more flexible. Or heated garage. Took me about an hour.

 

[MNMONTERO]

6 3/4 door speakers...???

Has anyone tried (or know of someone who has) installing 6 3/4 sized door speakers? I was reading up on tackling this job and saw somewhere that the stock Infinity speakers are +1 size 6.5s, meaning the cone surface area of the speaker is larger than a regular 6.5--so I take that as it is roughly equivalent to the next size up. Just curious to see if a bigger size will/does work without modifying things significantly....

 

[All-Terrain]

Like others have said, its not hard, just tedious. Lots of screws and some are a little hidden. Take your time and keep the screws orderly during removal so you can put them in the correct spots during assembly. A warmer day helps if your doing it outside because the plastic panels are more flexible. Or heated garage. Took me about an hour.

When you installed the DB840 sub, what did you have to do with the wiring? Were the factory connections different to the Polk Audio ones? Also, was the bolt pattern on the sub different or identical?

Thanks!

 

[KgB]

Here's a few more sub tips, it really isn't that hard getting the panel out its getting back that's tedious, I did not take lower panel all the way out, i did not remove any weatherstripping, take out top panel, take out 3 top screws for lower panel the rest is clips , I had the subwoofer out in ten minutes. My research showed a 2.8 ohm 8" speaker, I went with an earthquake sound sws-8x 4ohm, big mistake although the mounting holes were the same it does not fit in opening so I had to shim it and it rattles a little, even with weatherstripping. Also the speaker isreally shallow so the sound is lacking. The opening depth is 2 1/2" top to 5 1/2 at bottom, I think the Rockford Fosgate p3s 8 DVC 4ohm is a better option because the extra depth and you can wire it either 2 or 4 ohm and see which sounds better since neither is correct. Also get the speaker wire adapter that is shown earlier in thread, grey with red is neg. And yellow with red is pos. Which is opposite of what I read elsewhere. All in all pretty straightforward should take you about an hour. With any replacement speaker, the mounting holes won't line up and the wiring will be different but still pretty straightforward.

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[plh]

I went with an earthquake sound sws-8x 4ohm, big mistake although the mounting holes were the same it does not fit in opening so I had to shim it and it rattles a little, even with weatherstripping. Also the speaker isreally shallow so the sound is lacking. The opening depth is 2 1/2" top to 5 1/2 at bottom,

Deviating from the tried and true Polk DB840...