GMT-800 Suburban lift options?

[Martinjmpr]

FWIW seems like this topic would be relevant to other GMT-800 series trucks (2000 - 2006) Sierra, Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Avalanche, etc.
.

Yesterday driving across town I happened to see a Suburban that had exactly the "stance" I want for mine. Unfortunately I was driving down I-225 at 50mph so I didn't have a chance to look at it up close or even snap a pic. What I can tell you is that this was a 2500 Suburban and it had what appeared to me to be maybe 33" tires. Don't know if it was stock or lifted but if I was to guess I'd say maybe a mild lift.
.
I'm just trying to figure out what options there are for a mild lift for my '04 1500 'Burb. I've seen the "minimalist" kits, i.e. rubber or plastic spacers, keys and shock extenders. $120 on eBay for what I call the "high school kid" lift (basically the modern day equivalent of just putting longer shackles on to get a "lift.") Pass on that.
.
At the other extreme seems to be the lifts that require drop brackets, lower or upper control arms, etc. These are typically 6"+ lifts. Cost seems to start north of $1000. That's waaaaaay more lift than I need or want, more complexity and more expense and I have no interest in building a "bro dozer."
.
So I'm trying to hit the "Sweet spot" somewhere in between. Would like maybe 2" of lift and would prefer longer springs to spacers. Ideally would like to find something in the <$600 range since I'll have to pay to have it installed as well.

 

[rayra]

I've been looking and I can't find anything in between. It's either 1.5-2" with keys and spacers, or 4-6" with the crossbars etc, $1600++

at 15yrs and 125k mi, I figure just putting new Moog / stock rear springs and spacers will net me over 2"+ and take out the droop, and likewise the keys and a bit of crank on the front. And some fresh shocks. I have 265/70-17s on there now, 31"+

I'm still looking around for that Goldilocks solution though. I don't have the money or the Bro-ness to spend $3000 for a bigger lift and bigger tires on a vehicle I paid $6k for.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00498ZR7A...=UTF8&colid=QWZ1BSZYG6VW&coliid=IRBIF310DFBF6

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B28T2KS...=UTF8&colid=QWZ1BSZYG6VW&coliid=ICLAP269QEI95

 

[chilliwak]

Does BDS not have some rear springs with mild lift? You could just crank your front torsion bars up for 2 inches of lift. If you are carrying a big load then you could run a 4 inch lift spring in the rear. Maybe just have some custom rear springs made and crank the front? I hope this helps. Cheers, Chilli...

 

[Martinjmpr]

Dang, that's kind of what I was afraid of. I guess this is the flip side of not paying the "Toyota tax" anymore - I've moved on to a less expensive vehicle but also a vehicle that has fewer aftermarket options. Oh well, I can make do.
.
Since mine is not a Z71 (it's an LT) I would probably assemble a kit that includes brand new Z71 springs for the rear and then maybe some quality aluminum spacers. Longer shocks front and rear and then probably a set of new keys as well.
.
Quick question, given that the truck is 12 years old and has 139k on it, does anyone think it would make sense to replace to T-bars with brand new? Do T-bars "sag" over time like other springs?

 

[Martinjmpr]

. I don't have the money or the Bro-ness to spend $3000 for a bigger lift and bigger tires on a vehicle I paid $6k for.

.
Yeah, that's kind of my viewpoint too. I know I'm not keeping this truck forever so I'm not going to dump a huge amount of $$ into it. If I can get 3 - 4 years out of it I'll be happy. After that, who knows?

 

[p nut]

One thing to keep in mind: Unlike smaller trucks, like 4Runners and Tacomas, the ride on a full-size won't be affected nearly as bad as the smaller trucks. I've ridden in trucks with a spacer lift (mild ~2") and it rode just fine.
_
I wouldn't really count out the spacers, if really all you're wanting is "the look". I bought some myself, and hopefully I can find time to install them soon. It at least gives you a good idea if that amount of lift will be sufficient before spending even more money on a full on lift kit.
_
Regarding T-Bars, may not be apple/apple comparison, but my old LC 100 had them and at 15 years and 180k miles, the stockers were still good. I cranked them up around 120k miles and it never lost any height. I'm sure Chevy made theirs just as stout, so I wouldn't go replacing them blindly.

 

[Martinjmpr]

OK I stole this pic from another member (thanks Dizzydom!) but this is pretty much the "stance" I'd like to have:
.

 

[justcuz]

Martin,

You can do that to a 1500.
Hummer H2 rear springs and Ford torsion bar keys. I think the H2 springs were 185 bucks through GM parts direct and the Ford keys can be purchased at Ford or the wrecking yard.
I have the images saved but can't drag them to attach on my IPad. Do I have to go to settings and lock my screen?
I posted images of the keys in Jacks 2007 truck thread.

Oh and I run 285/75x16 tires with no rubbing. I think I have Falken Rocky Mountain tires on it now. 3rd set at this size with 50 to 60 thousand miles per set. 35 psi and rotated every 10 to 12 thousand.

 

[justcuz]

Here are the H2 spring numbers and a comparison of the keys. Ford is on top, 1500 in the middle and 2500 on the bottom. The hex is lined up so you can see the difference in bar indexing at the same adjustment.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Martin,

You can do that to a 1500.
Hummer H2 rear springs and Ford torsion bar keys. I think the H2 springs were 185 bucks through GM parts direct and the Ford keys can be purchased at Ford or the wrecking yard.
I have the images saved but can't drag them to attach on my IPad. Do I have to go to settings and lock my screen?
I posted images of the keys in Jacks 2007 truck thread.

Oh and I run 285/75x16 tires with no rubbing. I think I have Falken Rocky Mountain tires on it now. 3rd set at this size with 50 to 60 thousand miles per set. 35 psi and rotated every 10 to 12 thousand.

.
Is there a difference between Z71 springs and H2 springs? And would I still need spacers? Note that I do pull a trailer so a bit of "rake" is actually OK for me.
.
Also, dumb question, but how do I determine the proper length for the shocks?

 

[justcuz]

Not sure about Z71 springs. If you cross reference the part number it will tell you the applications. My guess is an H2 is heavier. No spacer needed. These are wound like a cargo coil so loaded it only drops about an inch. The picture of my Suburban is in my driveway pointed uphill. From the ground to the top of the wheelwell is 38". It kind of makes the 285's look small! I reused my stock shocks and sway bar links. However I have since removed the rear sway bar.

 

[justcuz]

I just checked the part number and it just calls for a Hummer H2 application with the 6.0 engine. No mention of a Z71.
The price has gone up a bit, I saw $101.54 each, I bought and installed mine in 2008. Shop around at all the GM parts places and Rock auto, you my find a better price.

 

[justcuz]

This is the stance without the front keys installed. Also a picture of the springs before installation, H2 on the left. Not a real good picture of the difference in height, but the wire diameter of the H2 is bigger too.

 

[rayra]

justcuz, so you're getting the 2" in the rear off the H2 springs alone, no spacer, do I understand that correctly? I'd much prefer to do that for the fuller spring response / range. And the price differential isn't terrible over new stock Z71 springs and spacers.

 

[Martinjmpr]

justcuz, so you're getting the 2" in the rear off the H2 springs alone, no spacer, do I understand that correctly? I'd much prefer to do that for the fuller spring response / range. And the price differential isn't terrible over new stock Z71 springs and spacers.

.
Well, yours is a Z71 already right? Just thinking that you might not get as much of a "rise" from H2 springs if you are starting with a Z71.