Goal zero, or other comparable systems

Wow, that would be an amazing price! A 1000 Watt-hour GZ Yeti runs $1100 new, with 1500 watt inverter, AC/DC/solar chargers. You have a source for a similar product at around $110?

At that price, I'd buy a couple. Can you post up a link?

Much obliged.
 

67cj5

Man On a Mission
Sounds about right for anything what bears the Yeti name.
Said that, there is something to be said for easy plug-n-play appliances if jobclock, liability or indifference requires it.
I found these 5 that are at a good price, Not as powerful as the bigger Yeti's, Reviews are mixed like all products regardless of the brand,


I like this one, Some one who bought it used it for 3 days camping so it must be able to pull it's weight,

 

Bear in NM

Adventurer
Grassland,

To your replies to my initial post, it sounds like you have the skillset and tools to build a portable. Some time spent researching designs, wiring, fuses/breaker etc. and I have no doubt you could put together a unit to your specifications. You are certainly further along the curve than I was. I guess the last component to that would be if you think you would find the process enjoyable, find satisfaction in having done it yourself, and place value in having the ability to repair/modify. I hate changing out starters, or replacing vehicle springs, but do so begrudgingly. My 12v journey has been mostly fun and rewarding.

As to batteries in general, there are two extreme thoughts you find on this board. Buy them cheap, thrash them hard, replace frequently. Versus buy them expensive, threat them right, fuss over everything, and try and make them last. You'll have to find your comfort level on that continuum. Myself, I try and buy decent quality and pay attention to the details, as much as is needed not to have AH Anxiety while enjoying the great outdoors.

I would absolutely recommend NOT doing flooded for a portable. Maybe a tiny system, but as had been mentioned, the potential outgassing and the fact that you may be storing/using this indoors sure points to AGM, at least. My portable was built in a Pelican case, with two 35ah agm's, and with the rest of the stuff I have in the case is well over 70 pounds. I keep 4 17 watt GZ panels in my case, that add a bit to the weight. It is a pain to move around. Some folks have used hand trucks built into their boxes, but sooner or later you are going to have to lift the darn thing. The AGM's allow me to stand it up, lay it down, and generally not worry about how I have to store it.

Sounds like you need to figure out a way to test the draw of your current configuration. With my 70ah portable (35 useable ah's), I could run my fridge, all led lighting and occasional small device charging for a weekend with minimal to no solar. With a 100 watt panel, I could go much longer. I know the draw of pretty much any "thing" that touches any of my systems, input or output side.

While not as cold as your location, my winters in NM are pretty cold. Months below freezing at night and weeks below zero (F) at night mean that all batteries that can be moved get stored inside. My van has flooded starters and my mounted house bank are AGM. They sit out, but they are essentially getting trickled by my solar during daylight hours. Well, at least after I brush the snow off my panels. If you go lithium, methinks that you will need to move them indoors during cold weather, or invest in a way to charge them, when they are not in a cold state. And lithium batteries are not as solar friendly as flooded or AGM. That can be done, but you will need to do your homework as to how.

For the right user, those lithium packs sure would be sweet. Plug it into the wall to charge, store it in a temp controlled environment, grab it to go exploring. Or have the wife grab it.

Craig
 
I looked hard at the Suaoki units before going with the Goal Zero. They have a very impressive feature set. Their high-end product, the G500, has a list price about $100 less than the corresponding GZ, the Yeti 400. It offers 18% more energy storage and has a built-in MPPT solar charger instead of the less efficient PWM controller that is standard on the GZ. The Suaoki does weigh 35% more, but at 22 pounds, it's not much of an issue.

Ultimately, I went with the GZ Yeti 1000 because my energy needs exceeded what I could get out of anything in the Suaoki lineup.

As I pointed out before, there are no huge differences in cost between brands once you make the leap into lithium technology. You're going to pay about $1 per Watt-hour. The Suaoki G500 is a perfect example. 500 Watt-hours at $500. The GZ Yeti 1000 offers 1000 Watt-hours at $1100, which is a 10% premium. That premium gets you a lot of expansion options I did not find in their competitors offerings.

By the way, I could be wrong about this, but I don't think there is any relationship between Goal Zero, maker of Yeti power packs, and the maker of those roto-molded coolers that attract so much passion on both sides. Now, owning one those things is crazy! (Just kidding) ?
 

borison

Adventurer
I have a Yeti 1000 lithium, purchased open box on Goal Zeros site for about $700. It’ll run my fridge for 5 days straight on its own but I charge it off my rigs 12v socket @5A while driving (haven’t bought a solar panel yet). It has a 1500w pure sine inverter so I can run pretty much anything from it. It may be cheaper to DIY but from what I’ve seen you won’t save much and the design and build quality of the Yeti is top notch. Well worth it, besides the fridge it’s my favorite piece of gear.
Which fridge are you running? Temps?
 

67cj5

Man On a Mission
I have a Yeti 1000 lithium, purchased open box on Goal Zeros site for about $700. It’ll run my fridge for 5 days straight on its own but I charge it off my rigs 12v socket @5A while driving (haven’t bought a solar panel yet). It has a 1500w pure sine inverter so I can run pretty much anything from it. It may be cheaper to DIY but from what I’ve seen you won’t save much and the design and build quality of the Yeti is top notch. Well worth it, besides the fridge it’s my favorite piece of gear.
I'm with SuperDuty on this one, With his comment about running a Group 31 DC Battery, You say you got 5 days from the yeti 1000, I Ran my ARB 47L/50Qt Fridge for 6 days and 8 hours @ 4*c/ 38-39*f and I had still not hit the batteries 30% Limit meaning I had used less around about 55-60% of it's capacity so food for thought there.

And all the comments about using FLA/SLA's as a portable unit or for use indoors etc as being not a good Idea is stupid because SLA means "Sealed Lead Acid" which means they have Valves that protect against Gassing in to the local area. So that Dog don't Hunt.

Again I have a Group 31 /115Ah DC SLA Battery less that 3 feet away from me at this present moment Running my ARB Fridge,

I Bought a Battery Box with an LED meter on it and a Cigar Lighter socket and a pair of Pos /Neg Terminals on the Lid for around 60/70 Bucks and Inside it I put one of my Group 31 batteries, Total Cost under 200 Bucks and that battery can be used as a portable unit or as a Starter or as part of my Bank, During a Test It ran a small portable TV for 16 hours a day for over 10 days and still it could have gone on for longer.

One thing to bare in mind is that all these fancy portable packs are just an excuse to carry all the Toys from home with us which defeats the objective of getting away from it all. It seems that as adventures we are getting obsessed with having Gadgets Invade our off road or coast to coast adventures, And things are taking a turn for the worst ever since they started putting USB ports on Fridges, From that moment On I knew some Geek was going to Balls Up the world of Off Road Travel,

These Lithium packs are a short term power supply which although they can be discharged right down low they don't like Heavy Current being drawn from them, And people need to realize that GZ Yeti's have a very limited application where a Group 31 will Do it all,

Seems like people just fall in Love with the new latest thing and just have to have it There is not one thing mentioned anywhere that a Group 31 or an SLA can't do or hasn't done in the past 50 years that a Lithium battery can do apart from being run flat and that is a stupid thing to do with any battery for a simple reason because the more you take out of it the more Time you are going to have to waste putting it back,
 

shade

Well-known member
There is not one thing mentioned anywhere that a Group 31 or an SLA can't do or hasn't done in the past 50 years that a Lithium battery can do apart from being run flat and that is a stupid thing to do with any battery for a simple reason because the more you take out of it the more Time you are going to have to waste putting it back,

I thought someone somewhere had mentioned that a Group 31 SLA battery is heavier and has less useable capacity than a LFP battery of similar capacity.

There's nothing wrong with SLA batteries, but there's also nothing wrong with other battery types. Pick one that works best for your use & application, and care for it properly. Some people value the advantages of LFP batteries more than SLA batteries, and are willing to pay the premium while managing the disadvantages. The same goes for buying a pre-packaged battery solution instead of DIY construction.

Seems simple, and not very dramatic to me.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Besides the stupid high cost per Ah@12V

These give a "canned set" of accessories that IMO can only match up with the needs of a limited % of people.

More cost effective to assemble a system(s) from components that match **your** specific needs.

The killer failing is the internal battery is not replaceable. Batteries are a consumable, the idea that we are supposed to toss these pricey powerpacks just because the batt's aged out is an abomination.

Nothing "Green" about them.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Of course they are an easy way for noobs with plenty money to recharge screen gadgets over a weekend away from shore power.
 

shade

Well-known member
Besides the stupid high cost per Ah@12V

These give a "canned set" of accessories that IMO can only match up with the needs of a limited % of people.

More cost effective to assemble a system(s) from components that match **your** specific needs.

Hard to argue.

The killer failing is the internal battery is not replaceable. Batteries are a consumable, the idea that we are supposed to toss these pricey powerpacks just because the batt's aged out is an abomination.
Some Goal Zero batteries are replaceable by the end user now, and replacements are planned for other models.


I don't know if the same can be said for other brands.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
I did assume we were talking lithium based.

People are paying these crazy prices to carry **lead** around?

Every time I start to look at this scammers' nest of a sub-market I walk away aghast
 

shade

Well-known member
I did assume we were talking lithium based.

People are paying these crazy prices to carry **lead** around?

Every time I start to look at this scammers' nest of a sub-market I walk away aghast
Goal Zero uses lithium & lead based batteries.
 

67cj5

Man On a Mission
100 years ago they said the same thing about horses and the internal combustion engine.
Hoses are a lot more reliable than some of the modern tech we see nower days, Like all new tech it takes a few years to fine tune things until they are perfect for their intended use.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
This is the best thread on ExPortal for me.
My big question is power supply. I am leaning to something like the SUOAKI G500. But it looks like it might not have enough power or connections to work. I'm going to work on my "needs" and follow this thread.

I know for cooking, coffee I'll use propane so no microwave, toaster or.... ??

These are my needs. I'll add specs to the list as I continue to research.

Refrigeration is number 1, a Dometic CRX 80
Lighting, a total of 10 LED hardwired lights. 2 bedside, 2 storage, 2 outside, 4 kitchen
Charging, my cell, an ipad, a MacBookAir, camera batteries, one by USB, one off 120v, a headlamp??

Not all lights would be on together. Charging can be rotating. But I love the convenience of everything always plugged in, hooked up, ready for use. Just like at home. So I can focus on the outdoor overlanding experience, not the geeky tasks of playing with gadgets.... which I hate.

I have easy space to add 2) 160watt solar panels to the roof of the OSB BOX. And weight is not an issue. Steady, reliable power supply is the over riding goal. I'd like to keep the vehicle electrics completely separate from the trailer/camping needs.

I think job 1 is to add up all those power draws. Hopefully 320watts of solar permanently on the roof will keep things running forever, Net Zero the goal. The easy part is finding batteries, maybe golf cart batteries?? or Lithium Ion?? The hard part for me is finding the power distribution/control components.

I should maybe start a new thread? yes?
 

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