Going domestic, project vanilla aka the family tankster, 2004 Suburban 2500

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
I've got the knock sensor code too! And I just had the intake manifold gasket replaced! I also have a fuel gauge that has gone haywire, so to get the SES light off I think I will need to fix both.

Ah bummer! I did some research on replacing the knock sensors and while it is a bit time consuming due to the need of removing the intake manifold, it seems relatively straight forward. A pro tip I found states that building a little dam around the knock sensors with silicone will prevent water looking and the corrosion that seems to kill them from happening. I was planning to do this. That said, now that winter is underway, I have gotten so busy with some side work projects that I don't know if I ever will have a free weekend to do the knock sensors and might just hire a buddy to do it for me. We are planning a 3 week trip in the rig starting mid April so need to take care of it. I haven't put gas in the truck since before Thanksgiving so you can see how much I have been driving it. My fuel economy seems way down on it so I think the truck is running a very conservative air fuel ratio to be safe from detonation.
 

justcuz

Explorer
Forget about the dam around the knock sensors, just seal them. Use genuine AC/Delco sensors and silicone seal all around the round plug and seal the the hole the wire comes up through.
This is based on personal experience with aftermarket sensors and the factory dam recommendation.
Also check your knock sensor short wiring loom with an ohm meter. They are cheap and easy to replace when you have it apart.
Some kits include both sensors and the short loom, I think I got my last one through Rock Auto.
 
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upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Forget about the dam around the knock sensors, just seal them. Use genuine AC/Delco sensors and silicone seal all around the round plug and seal the the hole the wire comes up through.
This is based on personal experience with aftermarket sensors and the factory dam recommendation.
Also check your knock sensor short wiring loom with an ohm meter. They are cheap and easy to replace when you have it apart.
Some kits include both sensors and the short loom, I think I got my last one through Rock Auto.

That's basically what I was referring to with the silicone. Sealing the sensors around the outsides. Ironically my CEL went back off last month so I am not getting the error code anymore. So, still assuming it is a sign of things to come. Haven't driven the truck much. Out fuel in it for the first time last week since before Thanksgiving and it still had over a half tank. Who needs a Prius?? Haha
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Well, winter is here, so I'll make the recommendation that you indeed go with Bilstein shocks. I did, and I couldn't be happier. With a slight crank, add 4 washers to the stem of the front shocks before the bushings. Gives you another 1/2" of droop travel, which is needed with the crank. Much softer than the Gabriel Ultra shocks that I had been running, and yet more controlled than the stock shocks, especially in rebound. Even with a 1500lb camper in the back, the ride and handling are excellent. No regrets. :)

The 6.0L will work pretty hard in the mountains, but it'll get the job done. I recently picked up an '02 2500HD. Same driveline. It's working pretty good towing a 4000lb trailer, but if you keep adding throttle, it'll just downshift and keep ripping right along. 2nd gear at 60mph is about 4000rpm, and my truck seems like it could do that all day if I asked it to.

I'll have to check your website... I spent 5 or 6 of the best years of my life at Michigan Tech, and then 15 years in SW MI. I could move back to the UP, but I sure don't miss the rust. I bought an '86 Comanche out here and it just comes apart. I have heat to break off a bolt. My '06 GMC was bought from N. Dakota in 2009, and I moved to CO in 2010. It came with the paint already stone blasted from the rockers, and I swear it hasn't rusted at all. Soooo nice. :)

I am used to driving old Land Cruisers and other under powered 4wds in the mountains so this thing feels like a beast in comparison. I am in no rush as when we are traveling with or without the camper we are not in any hurry.

Good stuff on the spacers, thanks!
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
I'll admit to skipping most of this thread (there's a lot of words- I'm more of a picture guy) but I did see you talk about the Rally Armor mudflaps a couple times. I have a set of the universals on my wife's Escape. They are pretty long, but do a good job of keeping the crap from building up along the sides. If you ever decide to go that route, you won't be disappointed.

And it looks like you ride the fat bikes year round. How come? I've never ridden a fat bike but I'd imagine the extra weight of the tires would get old hauling up hills and whatnot. Sometimes it's all I can do to get my 26er up the trail.

My only hesitation with mudflaps is that every truck I have had them on, they got hung up on something and torn off. I had rally armors on my STi, loved them.



We have traditional mountain bikes too. My Mukluk is super comfy and I can ride it all day in any conditions so I ended up using it more than my carbon Epic last summer. Even did a 100 mile race on it. My wife's Bear Grease is actually pretty light, I want to go that route in the future. My plan is to use my Muk for bike packing and long distance stuff more so. It's kind of like an old school Land Cruiser. Not great at anything in particular but it goes through everything, is simple and durable. It's also heavy and slow, but I don't really race anymore and enjoy long rides and scenery more so. The fatbikes get you over any surface so they open up a lot of riding options. On top of that, with the traction I have, I am actually faster on technical Singletrack on my fatty anyway.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Like I mentioned above, not much to report, haven't driven the truck much this winter. When I have though I have been impressed with the stability and traction. Definitely a confidence inspiring rig to be in when navigating roads in white out conditions and heavy drifting. The Grabber AT's work great. Not ideal on ice or heavy wet snow I find but better than the BFG AT's I have run in the past on other vehicles. Here are some pics at least to make the thread more interesting...


On the shore of Lake Superior


Some sight seeing from a ski excursion last week.
 

justcuz

Explorer
Nice bike! How do the Bar Mitts work? After watching the weather for southeast Michigan most of the winter, I failed to realize how much has fallen up north.
I think the knock sensors effect mileage and performance when malfunctioning. Keep an eye on your mileage, if it suffers change them in the Spring. There are shortcuts on removing the intake. Some things can remain attached to the intake and make it easier to remove. Watch a couple you tube videos. Many say you can reuse the intake gaskets, but for the cost of new ones you can avoid the hassle of a possible vacuum leak. More personal experience speaking here.:ylsmoke:
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
Some cool pics there Cruiser! I love the pic of your bike and the sled:Wow1: trailer. Too cool! Keep those pics coming. heers Chilli...:)
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Nice bike! How do the Bar Mitts work? After watching the weather for southeast Michigan most of the winter, I failed to realize how much has fallen up north.
I think the knock sensors effect mileage and performance when malfunctioning. Keep an eye on your mileage, if it suffers change them in the Spring. There are shortcuts on removing the intake. Some things can remain attached to the intake and make it easier to remove. Watch a couple you tube videos. Many say you can reuse the intake gaskets, but for the cost of new ones you can avoid the hassle of a possible vacuum leak. More personal experience speaking here.:ylsmoke:

The Bar Mitts work great. There are heavier/warmer products on the market but these keep my hands warm with just thin, summer biking gloves I wear with them. Even down below zero. I don't know why you would need warmer ones.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Looks like you're having lots of fun. I ought to get my Chariot trailer out and hook it up to the fat bike. My Blackborow has 197 T/A rear end, so I have to get some sort of an adapter to run the trailer hitch.
.
.
Regarding the mitts, there are some super nice (read: expensive) bicycle specific ones out there, but I simply use these:

http://www.amazon.com/ScootR-Logic-SLHM-1-Hand-Mitts/dp/B0022ZJJSK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

They've worked pretty well.

Yeah, that's the issue we have with my wife's Bear Grease with the through axle compatibility. Have you found an adapter?
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Recently had the wife's '05 Tahoe 5.3 apart for another reason*, had the whole intake etc off. Was staring at those knock sensors thinking long and hard about them, but at $50 apiece and no trouble and no visual issues, I let them be. Probably should have replaced them while I had the opportunity.

The issue - and I think it's 2003-2007 engines - GM in their inifiinite wisdom replaced a simple $5 PCV valve with a metal baffle integral to the driver side valve cover. And when the internal weep holes in this baffle plate crud up - her engine is crossing 160k mi - the engine starts breathing in oil. She told me about a puff of smoke, I dreaded a head gasket problem as she's had a small bit of heating and whiff of coolant in the last several months, but nothing I could ever track down. Couple days later, it's laying its own smoke screen on startup. She kills it, takes my Sub to work and leaves me a note. I fire up and it's plainly oil smoke. Some googling and some poking around confirmed this PCV trouble. The chambers in the intake manifold had puddles of oil in them.

This was the test, a swatch of paper towel on a spring / claw probe, shoved in past the throttle plate.

intakeswab08_zps0lxzgrpg.jpg



After much repeated swabbing, still no end of oil. Along the way I discovered the chamber is pinch-waisted with a quarter-sized hole into the back half. I swabbed back there and got even more sopping towels for my efforts. Then a towel slipped loose, lost in the intake. I pulled the throttle mechanism off, to get a better view trying to fish out the towel, you can see there was still oil puddling in the intake manifold.

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Decided I had to pull the manifold to get the towel and all that oil out. This was after pulling the valve cover and cleaning out the clogged weep holes

intakeswab06_zpsbaapk53d.jpg
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The brownish blocks at both ends of the manifold are a later model factory revision, directly related to the corrosion failures of the knock sensors. The foam blocks seal both ends of the galley / void under the intake. Mostly. More about that in a bit.

So I pulled everything apart. It's a pretty straight forward and relatively easy job. The finicky injector solenoid connectors are the toughest part. Second toughest, more on that in a bit, too.

These dirty ports are the INTAKES. A before and after I cleaned things up a bit.

intakeswab14_zpsgetuyxcv.jpg
intakeswab15_zps0rjsfyr7.jpg


And that's a clear shot of the two knock sensors in an '05 5.3L vortec. Under those rubber disks. And their wire leads.

Anyway I cleaned it all up and got it back together, nice new intake gasket plates. Did a series of longer and longer test drives and called it good.

intakeswab17_zps9ub6l1tw.jpg


She's put about 1000mi on it since, still great and a recent swab test came out very clean. Problem fixed.


About a week later after learnign how easy it was to execute, I changed my own valve cover gaskets, all the stud bushings too. Mine had begun leaking noticeably after I mistakenly switched to synthetic blend oil at 120k mi. Wasn't dripping a drop until I did. Went very well.

valvecover01_zpstg6i5ayk.jpg
valvecover02_zpsfjxwlcje.jpg
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Or so I thought. I'd sprayed degreaser and took some care (I thought) when hosing it clean, before pulling the valve covers. But here I am, scarcely a week later, and I am now throwing a 'Knock Sensor #2 / Bank #2' code. Apparently I got some crud in there and fouled up the ground path of the sensor. Despite also having the foam blocks on my '02 5.3.
So now I'm going to have to pull my own intake off and decide if I can just clean up and seal my sensors and put new intake gaskets, or spend $100 on sensors too and swap them while I'm in there.

oh the other complication was while I put the wife's intake manifold back in, I nudged the plastic compression T connector on the heater hoses high on the firewall. THAT turns out to have been the source of the whiff. When I bumped it I destroyed what was left of its internal o-ring. When I fired the engine up after the intake repairs, it started streaming fluid from that connector after the thermostat opened. %$%@&#! So I had to go get that T connector ($20) and man was that a PITA to change. Do it when your manifold is out, unless you have tiny hands. If you are nearing or past 100k mi, you really out to change them anyway, they too are apparently a known source of trouble with these vehicles.

Apologies for bumping this all in here, but seemed relevant. I'd been intending to make a 'hey Vortec guys' topic about it anyway. Things that should be planned for. Intake gaskets, the oil breathing thing, the heater hose connectors. The internet and youtube are flush with people having troubles with these things on our motors. Fix them instead at a time and place of your own choosing, as preventative maintenance.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Wow, thanks for sharing all of that. Good info. Is that a common issue with the 6.0's too?

Got some goodies arriving for the Burb.



And a set of Bilstein 5100's thanks to TJ at Roam Auto. I also am shopping replacement towing mirrors. My truck has he power extending tow mirrors with the integrated turn signals. Backing out of my garage last month I snagged one on the doorway and busted it. Holy cow they are expensive to replace. Seems like used ones go for $250 per side. Looking to swap to aftermarket, manual extending mirrors which will be cheaper than just buying 1 used OEM replacement.

We are hitting the road at the end of April for an 18 day trip. Planning on spending the majority of our time poking around our favorite sweet spots in Southern Utah doing a lot of biking, hiking and backcountry travel with the truck. Getting a march snowstorm right now and it's making me itchy to see some warm weather and red rocks.
 
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