toylandcruiser
Expedition Leader
Actually wide tires are terrible in the sand. Narrow tires lowered down are preferred.
Half ton of fun. Overlanding build starting for '04 F150
- Thread starter dbhost
- Start date
Actually wide tires are terrible in the sand. Narrow tires lowered down are preferred.
Not in my experience. Yes, aired down. Why aired down? To help spread the load across a wider contact patch.
Off-Road Tire Pressure: When to Air Down
You can enjoy a softer ride by dropping off-road tire pressure when you venture onto uneven surfaces. Learn how and when to air down.
knowhow.napaonline.com
" Releasing air, also known as airing down, allows the tires to adapt to the surface by supplying more rubber for improved grip. Instead of sinking into the terrain, deflated tires “float” as you drive around. Lowering the tire pressure also relieves the suspension system and driveline, reducing bounce for a softer ride."
I have literally A/B tested 2 identical F150s only difference is tire width on the same beach, OE tire size easily buried itself. 12.5s floated fine...
There is a reason the 1940 skinny military tires are a thing of the past.
toylandcruiser
Expedition Leader
Not in my experience. Yes, aired down. Why aired down? To help spread the load across a wider contact patch.
.Off-Road Tire Pressure: When to Air Down
You can enjoy a softer ride by dropping off-road tire pressure when you venture onto uneven surfaces. Learn how and when to air down.
" Releasing air, also known as airing down, allows the tires to adapt to the surface by supplying more rubber for improved grip. Instead of sinking into the terrain, deflated tires “float” as you drive around. Lowering the tire pressure also relieves the suspension system and driveline, reducing bounce for a softer ride."
I have literally A/B tested 2 identical F150s only difference is tire width on the same beach, OE tire size easily buried itself. 12.5s floated fine...
There is a reason the 1940 skinny military tires are a thing of the past.
Radial tires are constantly trying to clump a little sand ridges they create. Hence wider radial tires are climbing wider ridges. Lowering tire pressure doesn’t make the tire wider. It makes it longer. I have driven my land cruiser with 31 10x50s by stuck trucks with monster wide tires.
I guess old habits die hard. With the exception of my Baja bug, all the off road vehicles I have owned have at some point in their functional lives with me had 12.5" wide tires, either 33x12.50, or 35.12.50 and I have noticed a much less extreme tendency to bury themselves in soft surfaces such as the Texas gumbo mud, or loose sand. Mind you I am not running some Mickey Thompson width 14+ inch wide tires.
Of course 285/70R17 wasn't a necessarily bad tire size on this truck. 32.8" Dia, and 11.2" tread is nothing to sneeze at.
True enough. However aside from limited slips and gear ratios, which will be fitted to mine, the F150 Raptor uses the same diffs and is factory outfitted with 315/70R17s. Basically the same dimensions as my 35x12.50/17. I am looking at stepping DOWN to 33s from 35s.
My first tire upgrad was 285/70r17, so basically 33x11.5, on the OE 3.55 gears with never even a slight hiccup pulling fully loaded. However performance was seriously impacted by the 35s.
I do have a CAI, High flow cats, and tune. I am guessing prior to the VCT system dumping on itself, I was proably putting out 325 HP or so... Not a power monster, but no slouch. Mind you , I was perfectly happy rocking a CJ-7 with a 2bbl on a Jeep 4.2 liter stock gears and 33x12.50/15s...
Of course I think the OE gears on that jeep were something low like 4.11 or???? Who knows...
I do have a CAI, High flow cats, and tune. I am guessing prior to the VCT system dumping on itself, I was proably putting out 325 HP or so... Not a power monster, but no slouch. Mind you , I was perfectly happy rocking a CJ-7 with a 2bbl on a Jeep 4.2 liter stock gears and 33x12.50/15s...
Of course I think the OE gears on that jeep were something low like 4.11 or???? Who knows...
Okay, design target so far....
2004 F150 XLT Supercab 4x4 5.4L 3V. Engine rebuild in progress. All upgraded hardware with TSB fixes on the VCT system, and an upgraded Melling Hi Flow oil pump. 9.75" . Regear front and rear to 4.10s and if I am correct here, I believe ARB air lockers are available for both ends. so selectable lockers on both ends.
Delete OE front bumper, plastic bumper parts, brush guard winch mount, and 9K winch. Replace with proper winch bumper with capacity for, and 12K winch with synthetic line. Pretty happy with the Engo other than it is a little bit lower powered.
Rancho Quicklift 2.5" with Moog HD coils, RS9000 shocks. Rear stock springs with RS9000 shocks.
Moog Problem Solver upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends.
PowerStop slotted / dimpled rotors and Ceramic pads.
LED light bar and smaller square LED off road lights to throw LOTS of light forward, and forward to sides.
AirRAID cold air intake
Upgrade to better / more up to date tuner.
Magnaflow high flow cats, 2.5x2.5x3" y pipe, and 3" Summit cat back system with Magnaflow muffler. The idea is flow, while still keeping noise down.
Pro Comp 1089 17x9 rims x5. fitted with BFGoodrich AT TAs in 285/70R17s. Not quite but close enough to 33x12.50/17. More than enough tire for anything I want to get into.
Duracell AGM battery
Realistic TRC-465 AM/SSB with 102" whip and 6" SS spring. Looking at upgrading to AM/SSB/FM rig when they come on market after the updates to part 95 FCC rules...
Bed Rug.
Unknown MFG Fender flares with 1.5" added tire coverage. These look like, well, WIDE King Ranch model flares.
Towing harness, and Ford towing package tranny cooler.
Line of Fire LED accessory brake / turn / tail lights.
Haul Master hitch hauler.
Redone interior with Leather Seat conversion. My original cloth seats have had it...
Replace the old nerf bars that are rusting out as they seemed to capture water and not let any out. Oops...
ADD: Cab roof crossbars, and gargo basket. with wind deflector and repurpose my waterproof roof top cargo bag to enclose cargo on the roof. Attach mounts for traction boards. Generic variant of MaxxTraxx, 2 pairs, 1 with Hi Lift jack bases, 1 without. GI style shovel etc...
Hi top contractor style aluminum truck cap with top hinged side access panels for bed access. See The Craptor build for how I ntend to integrate...
LG 5K BTU window ac as it will more than powerfully enough cool the tiny space, and only draw 4.1 amps max. That would allow me to run on an inexpensive, fuel efficient and thus less polluting 1KW inverter generator.
Reinforce sides of cap above the side doors to allow for DIY awning on passengers side. I know most go on drivers side, but I do not want it on the gas tank side of the truck, IF possible, extend over the cab to get a 10x10 awning, and rig it to accept Ozark Trail shade walls on the front, and outer side, leaving the rear open.
Hanger for the Camplux 5L rig on most likely drivers side as close to the rear as possible,
NOCA power pass through on the AC mount wall.
2004 F150 XLT Supercab 4x4 5.4L 3V. Engine rebuild in progress. All upgraded hardware with TSB fixes on the VCT system, and an upgraded Melling Hi Flow oil pump. 9.75" . Regear front and rear to 4.10s and if I am correct here, I believe ARB air lockers are available for both ends. so selectable lockers on both ends.
Delete OE front bumper, plastic bumper parts, brush guard winch mount, and 9K winch. Replace with proper winch bumper with capacity for, and 12K winch with synthetic line. Pretty happy with the Engo other than it is a little bit lower powered.
Rancho Quicklift 2.5" with Moog HD coils, RS9000 shocks. Rear stock springs with RS9000 shocks.
Moog Problem Solver upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends.
PowerStop slotted / dimpled rotors and Ceramic pads.
LED light bar and smaller square LED off road lights to throw LOTS of light forward, and forward to sides.
AirRAID cold air intake
Upgrade to better / more up to date tuner.
Magnaflow high flow cats, 2.5x2.5x3" y pipe, and 3" Summit cat back system with Magnaflow muffler. The idea is flow, while still keeping noise down.
Pro Comp 1089 17x9 rims x5. fitted with BFGoodrich AT TAs in 285/70R17s. Not quite but close enough to 33x12.50/17. More than enough tire for anything I want to get into.
Duracell AGM battery
Realistic TRC-465 AM/SSB with 102" whip and 6" SS spring. Looking at upgrading to AM/SSB/FM rig when they come on market after the updates to part 95 FCC rules...
Bed Rug.
Unknown MFG Fender flares with 1.5" added tire coverage. These look like, well, WIDE King Ranch model flares.
Towing harness, and Ford towing package tranny cooler.
Line of Fire LED accessory brake / turn / tail lights.
Haul Master hitch hauler.
Redone interior with Leather Seat conversion. My original cloth seats have had it...
Replace the old nerf bars that are rusting out as they seemed to capture water and not let any out. Oops...
ADD: Cab roof crossbars, and gargo basket. with wind deflector and repurpose my waterproof roof top cargo bag to enclose cargo on the roof. Attach mounts for traction boards. Generic variant of MaxxTraxx, 2 pairs, 1 with Hi Lift jack bases, 1 without. GI style shovel etc...
Hi top contractor style aluminum truck cap with top hinged side access panels for bed access. See The Craptor build for how I ntend to integrate...
LG 5K BTU window ac as it will more than powerfully enough cool the tiny space, and only draw 4.1 amps max. That would allow me to run on an inexpensive, fuel efficient and thus less polluting 1KW inverter generator.
Reinforce sides of cap above the side doors to allow for DIY awning on passengers side. I know most go on drivers side, but I do not want it on the gas tank side of the truck, IF possible, extend over the cab to get a 10x10 awning, and rig it to accept Ozark Trail shade walls on the front, and outer side, leaving the rear open.
Hanger for the Camplux 5L rig on most likely drivers side as close to the rear as possible,
NOCA power pass through on the AC mount wall.
I saw the 3" lifts but have been told 2.5 is as much as you want to push the ball joints. Honestly the original ball joints didn't even make 100K with a 2.5" lift... Go figure...
I like those slightly newer trucks. You get the full crew cab with a full 6.5 foot bed! Niiiiice!
I've got that style brush guard that is also a winch mount. Come to find out the winch mount / brush guard itself weighs as much as just an aftermarket winch mount bumper... Honestly if I knew how to weld, I would make my own...
4.10 seems to be the consensus gearing... Definately going back to 285/70R17 or 33x12.50/17 depending on what is avaialble. Difference seems to be under .4" tread width...
So here goes more thought process... Plywood cabinets need to be sealed to prevent wood rot, and honestly they are HEAVY. I intend to minimze their presence...
Spent some time designing the bed and cabinet system. Working simplest approach first. So approach A...
Utilize modded roller bed frame to hold up an RV Short queen mattress. I have the frame on hand, using 1" iron pipe with flanges as risers. Intend to at the very least tack weld hinge points and where the pipe meets the frame. Estimated weight 40lbs total.
3/4" sanded ply platform on top of frame. in 3 segments, piano hinged together and grid bored with 1" forstner drilled breather holes to reduce weight, and allow breathing of Memory foam mattress. At least 2 coats of polyurethane spar sealant. Guesstimate of weight after cut down, holes etc... 25lbs.
Top the bed with an 8" cooling gel memory foam RV queen mattress. Shipping weight of 42lbs, assuming at least 4lbs of that is packaging...
Under platform dividers to be made using PMF over foam, with 3/4" ply strips for reinforcement at load bearing points. The idea is to retain the Aquatainers, and the 12v "house power" rig, at the front of the truck bed. A stowage compartment for the portable toilet on the drivers side under the platform will be set up using the PMF construction, and long PMF drawers housing kitchen, and misc in camp gear.
Cooler to be kept in back seat of truck cab.
Design work on the kitchen slide out drawer ongoing. This will likely be a mix of PMF / foam / ply and I am considering whether to integrate the kitchen, or continue using my fold up camp kitchen stand...
Spent some time designing the bed and cabinet system. Working simplest approach first. So approach A...
Utilize modded roller bed frame to hold up an RV Short queen mattress. I have the frame on hand, using 1" iron pipe with flanges as risers. Intend to at the very least tack weld hinge points and where the pipe meets the frame. Estimated weight 40lbs total.
3/4" sanded ply platform on top of frame. in 3 segments, piano hinged together and grid bored with 1" forstner drilled breather holes to reduce weight, and allow breathing of Memory foam mattress. At least 2 coats of polyurethane spar sealant. Guesstimate of weight after cut down, holes etc... 25lbs.
Top the bed with an 8" cooling gel memory foam RV queen mattress. Shipping weight of 42lbs, assuming at least 4lbs of that is packaging...
Under platform dividers to be made using PMF over foam, with 3/4" ply strips for reinforcement at load bearing points. The idea is to retain the Aquatainers, and the 12v "house power" rig, at the front of the truck bed. A stowage compartment for the portable toilet on the drivers side under the platform will be set up using the PMF construction, and long PMF drawers housing kitchen, and misc in camp gear.
Cooler to be kept in back seat of truck cab.
Design work on the kitchen slide out drawer ongoing. This will likely be a mix of PMF / foam / ply and I am considering whether to integrate the kitchen, or continue using my fold up camp kitchen stand...
D
Deleted member 9101
Guest
Why not use marine grade plywood? It looks good and doesn't rot.
Spent some quality time with the roller frame today, and some cross slats made with scrap 5/8" pine ply. Even with my weight, no flexing of the slats. I am thinking a more continuous panel, even perforated the way I described above will work...
I have the last pieces for my kitchen / shower hot water system arriving today. A fresh 10' 1/2" ID potable water hose, and a cheap hose nozzle / sprayer. WIth a 1.2gpm pump, spray will be somewhat paltry, but enough to do dishes...
I have the last pieces for my kitchen / shower hot water system arriving today. A fresh 10' 1/2" ID potable water hose, and a cheap hose nozzle / sprayer. WIth a 1.2gpm pump, spray will be somewhat paltry, but enough to do dishes...
Some more progress today. Ordered the generator, a Sportsman 1000 inverter 4 stroke generator and sourced up a curb find LG 5K BTU window unit, did some cleanup, having a GFCI issue. Could be a bad GFCI, could be a nicked wire in the unit. Starting to trace that down, we will see if this is salvageable... The awesome thing is this LG is the model I was wanting to buy anyway. 4.1 amps max draw so easily within 50% of generator max capacity..