I go camping a few times a year and quickly learned that the truck in the jku isn't as big as it really looks. The roll bar takes up a lot of room. I'm not done with this yet but so far it turned out awesome. It can hold two 8 feet kayaks and trying to figure out how to mount 2 Yakima bike racks also.
Harbor freight camping/kayak trailer
- Thread starter Mowgli
- Start date
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
Looks cool....Nice wood working.
As others have said it gets addictive!
Firefighter? Thank you for your service!
As others have said it gets addictive!
Firefighter? Thank you for your service!
John E Davies
Adventurer
It's cute.....
But I feel obliged to ask, why wood? I can understand a wood floor and sides, but not for the superstructure...... Why not steel or aluminum channel and thick-walled tubing for the crossbars?
Aren't you worried about losing your cargo on rough roads or on the freeway in a stiff crosswind? I like seeing creative solutions, but I do think that you need to re-evaluate the strength (or lack of) of your top end..... A vertical two dimensional plank has almost no resistance to lateral loads - it just flexes back and forth, and bows. You really need some reinforcement there - say some quality plywood to form an I beam shape, to absorb the side loads.
Show me a load test picture of two stout firefighters standing on your crossbars and I will shut up.
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
But I feel obliged to ask, why wood? I can understand a wood floor and sides, but not for the superstructure...... Why not steel or aluminum channel and thick-walled tubing for the crossbars?
Aren't you worried about losing your cargo on rough roads or on the freeway in a stiff crosswind? I like seeing creative solutions, but I do think that you need to re-evaluate the strength (or lack of) of your top end..... A vertical two dimensional plank has almost no resistance to lateral loads - it just flexes back and forth, and bows. You really need some reinforcement there - say some quality plywood to form an I beam shape, to absorb the side loads.
Show me a load test picture of two stout firefighters standing on your crossbars and I will shut up.
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
Last edited:
gordinho80
Adventurer
I'm inclined to agree with John. 1x6 doesn't scream "structural integrity" to me. Maybe having the walls coming up as high as they do and your use of the corner gussets on the top row adds some support. Have you taken it down the highway like this yet? Have you gone out during a windy day?
I would have liked to do it with metal but I have no experience welding. I was originally planning on doing a 1x4 across but did a 2x2 since it wouldn't flex as much. The kayak weighs about 30lbs. I've though about just cutting the whole top off and laying the kayak on top of the trailer. It has not been driven with anything loaded on top yet
huskyrunnr
New member
Nice work! Does the bed have a gate? If not, you could go with bolt-on risers for the boat/bike rack.
Bolt-on kayak/bike frames:
http://www.magnetatrailers.com/canoekayaktrailersaccessories/canoekayaktrailerparts.html
One way would be to lose that Harbor Freight tongue piece and bolt on a longer length of channel that sticks out the back enough to bolt an upright to it.
I'll bet you'd be happier with the boats right on top the bed though, lower center of g.
Bolt-on kayak/bike frames:
http://www.magnetatrailers.com/canoekayaktrailersaccessories/canoekayaktrailerparts.html
One way would be to lose that Harbor Freight tongue piece and bolt on a longer length of channel that sticks out the back enough to bolt an upright to it.
I'll bet you'd be happier with the boats right on top the bed though, lower center of g.
summerprophet
Adventurer
I am rather terrified by the wood as well. Imagine doing 70 miles an hour into 60 mph crosswinds, and you can imagine what would happen to your kayaks.
Use aluminum, you can use woodworking tools on it, and it has the stiffness and strength you need for something like this.
Now, with saying that, I did build a custom Kayak rack to carry 5 ocean kayaks on the roof of my Tundra. But it was solid and was not designed for long term use.
huskyrunnr
New member
To add a data point on this, I have your exact model of trailer, and I carry my canoe like this (not a pic of mine).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/outrigger/7335835/in/set-185726
With my 200 lb displacement outrigger float, about 20 lbs in the air, the Harbor Freight trailer does OK. With my 600 lb displacement outrigger float up in the air, about 40 lbs, life becomes very sketchy. I only tried that once, on backroads. That trailer is so light and narrow, it is just not doable to have any significant weight up high, and that is with a 120 lb canoe strapped to the frame.
I'm trying to say, even with a strong rack, you'll still need some ballast down low with that trailer.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/outrigger/7335835/in/set-185726
With my 200 lb displacement outrigger float, about 20 lbs in the air, the Harbor Freight trailer does OK. With my 600 lb displacement outrigger float up in the air, about 40 lbs, life becomes very sketchy. I only tried that once, on backroads. That trailer is so light and narrow, it is just not doable to have any significant weight up high, and that is with a 120 lb canoe strapped to the frame.
I'm trying to say, even with a strong rack, you'll still need some ballast down low with that trailer.
John E Davies
Adventurer
You most definitely do not have to weld aluminum to get a strong outcome. It is easily cut and drilled and is light and super rigid .... IF you use the right material. You won't find the correct alloy at Home Depot. They only carry the dead soft stuff which is useless for any structural project. A metal supply company that specializes in non-ferrous metals (no regular steel) will have what you need, or you can order online.
My suggestion is this:
Buy some lengths of 6061-T6 (tempered) aluminum channel; this size would work fine:
http://www.alcobrametals.com/display.php?id=523
Cut to length to make four full height risers, and bolt them to the sides and bottom structure of your trailer using several 1/4-20 or larger bolts and self locking (Nylock) nuts. You want the vertical load to be carried by the steel trailer frame, not the wood sides.
Then make four short sections (2"x2") and bolt them to the top of the risers to make horizontal pads. Use a u-bolt (two is better, but probably overkill for your load) at each end of a crossbar to form your load bars. I recommend the Yakima plastic coated steel bars - they are strong as can be and won't rust, and you can use standard Yak mounts and accessories. You could even mount a kayak rack up there
or just wrap them in dense foam. If your bike racks are Thule, you can use their rectangular bars, but they are a little harder to work with IMHO, and less versatile.
FYI here is a list of common aluminum alloys: .... http://www.alcobrametals.com/guide.php?metal=1#6061
The reason you use channel instead of angle is that it resists twisting so much better. Angle easily distorts under modest loads, so you have to increase the thickness to get enough strength, and that adds weight and cost.
BTW, that place I linked is very close to me and I buy stuff all the time, especially since I have an aluminum trailer; they do mail order, but shipping costs may be an issue. So a local supplier is probably better. Any major metro area should have one.
Here is a pic of Yakima bars mounted with stainless u-bolts on my trailer lid. It is hell for strong and a simple setup. The Space Booster and Boa bike mounts go on and off in just a few minutes.
Good luck.
EDIT: Oh yeah - any aluminum scraps you have left when you are done can be recycled for cash and you will get a little of your money back.
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
My suggestion is this:
Buy some lengths of 6061-T6 (tempered) aluminum channel; this size would work fine:
http://www.alcobrametals.com/display.php?id=523
Cut to length to make four full height risers, and bolt them to the sides and bottom structure of your trailer using several 1/4-20 or larger bolts and self locking (Nylock) nuts. You want the vertical load to be carried by the steel trailer frame, not the wood sides.
Then make four short sections (2"x2") and bolt them to the top of the risers to make horizontal pads. Use a u-bolt (two is better, but probably overkill for your load) at each end of a crossbar to form your load bars. I recommend the Yakima plastic coated steel bars - they are strong as can be and won't rust, and you can use standard Yak mounts and accessories. You could even mount a kayak rack up there
or just wrap them in dense foam. If your bike racks are Thule, you can use their rectangular bars, but they are a little harder to work with IMHO, and less versatile.FYI here is a list of common aluminum alloys: .... http://www.alcobrametals.com/guide.php?metal=1#6061
The reason you use channel instead of angle is that it resists twisting so much better. Angle easily distorts under modest loads, so you have to increase the thickness to get enough strength, and that adds weight and cost.
BTW, that place I linked is very close to me and I buy stuff all the time, especially since I have an aluminum trailer; they do mail order, but shipping costs may be an issue. So a local supplier is probably better. Any major metro area should have one.
Here is a pic of Yakima bars mounted with stainless u-bolts on my trailer lid. It is hell for strong and a simple setup. The Space Booster and Boa bike mounts go on and off in just a few minutes.
Good luck.
EDIT: Oh yeah - any aluminum scraps you have left when you are done can be recycled for cash and you will get a little of your money back.
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
Last edited:
I didn't really mean what you meant by the 2x2. Where will those bolt to?
Then make four short sections (2"x2") and bolt them to the top of the risers to make horizontal pads. Use a u-bolt (two is better, but probably overkill for your load) at each end of a crossbar to form your load bars. I recommend the Yakima plastic coated steel bars - they are strong as can be and won't rust, and you can use standard Yak mounts and accessories. You could even mount a kayak rack up there or just wrap them in dense foam. If your bike racks are Thule, you can use their rectangular bars, but they are a little harder to work with IMHO, and less versatile.
I've been looking at the u channel that's 1x2 not the 1 1/2x2 that you recommended because the slots on the trailer are 1x2. Would that work as well to hold up bikes and yayaks? I also looked at the 1x2 square tubbing since that seams very strong. Stand by for links.
And yes I am a firefighter. We build this over the weekend in the bay
Then make four short sections (2"x2") and bolt them to the top of the risers to make horizontal pads. Use a u-bolt (two is better, but probably overkill for your load) at each end of a crossbar to form your load bars. I recommend the Yakima plastic coated steel bars - they are strong as can be and won't rust, and you can use standard Yak mounts and accessories. You could even mount a kayak rack up there or just wrap them in dense foam. If your bike racks are Thule, you can use their rectangular bars, but they are a little harder to work with IMHO, and less versatile.
I've been looking at the u channel that's 1x2 not the 1 1/2x2 that you recommended because the slots on the trailer are 1x2. Would that work as well to hold up bikes and yayaks? I also looked at the 1x2 square tubbing since that seams very strong. Stand by for links.
And yes I am a firefighter. We build this over the weekend in the bay
2" x 1" x .130" 6061-T6 Channel
http://www.alcobrametals.com/display.php?id=524
Or
1" x 2" x 1/8" wall
http://www.alcobrametals.com/display.php?id=2546
http://www.alcobrametals.com/display.php?id=524
Or
1" x 2" x 1/8" wall
http://www.alcobrametals.com/display.php?id=2546