Harmonic balancer, roll pin

[fishon1213]

Hello all, I have a 98 gen 2.5, 6g74. My harmonic balancer has wobbled for quite some time now. I have done a complete timing set but it still wobbles, bolt and balancer are also new. I feel now that I may have overlooked the roll pin as being my problem. I plan on pulling the balancer back off to inspect the roll pin but before I do, is the roll pin a generic parts I could just get at most parts stores? If so what size is it? If it's sheared anyone have any tips on removing it without having to take the whole front engine cover off? Could a sheared roll pin cause the balancer to wobble?

 

[fishon1213]

Also, would I be able to start the engine for a few seconds with the balancer and acc. belts off to see if the crankshaft is the problem? Timing belt will be on of course.

 

[ljense8]

I drilled mine out and used a bigger one. I forget what size. Maybe 3/16"? Just make sure it's the correct length. Too long will make the balancer wobbly.

 

[ljense8]

BTW, I did it without removing the front engine cover. I pulled my radiator to give me extra room.

 

[fishon1213]

Great, thanks for the info. I bought a roll pin assortment and some good drill bits. I plan on tackling it tomorrow.

 

[ljense8]

Just be careful that you drill it out straight. You don't want any slop in the pin.

 

[fishon1213]

The roll pin was sheared but I got it drilled out straight. I started the engine for a few seconds with the balancer off and the nose of the crankshaft had a slight wobble. I installed a new roll pin, made sure it was the correct fit, put everything back together and still a slight wobble. I give up. I feel I've done everything I can to fix the problem without really tearing into the engine. It runs fine and the acc belts don't squeak, but how long before it grenades? I guess I'll find out, lol

 

[Jay Ayala]

You may want to consider getting a new timing sprocket, harmonic balancer, updated crank bolt and washer. Once all of that is removed, clean the crap out of the surfaces of the crankshaft. Use a wire brush bit on a drill or a flexible detail wire brush on a dremel tool. The idea here is to get any gunk or bits removed of of the mating surfaces of the crank shaft before putting new ones on.

Keep in mind that the 3.5L engine is an interference engine. If your stuff grenades as you put it, you will probably wind up with bent valves. I would do the prevention work if I were you.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

 

[fishon1213]

I'm resurrecting my old thread. Still the same problem, wobbly pulley. In the past I have replaced everything mentioned above and then some, but I have a new theory. This engine has the common mitsu valve seal problem, it burns about 1qt every 1000mi. Could the bad valve seals be causing the bottom end wobble?

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

I have a new theory. This engine has the common mitsu valve seal problem. Could the bad valve seals be causing the bottom end wobble?

No.

John B.