JKDetonator
Adventurer
Beat me to it!
The Outlander Trailer is exactly what you were describing, good folks over in Arkansas.
The Outlander Trailer is exactly what you were describing, good folks over in Arkansas.
Has anyone done this?
- Thread starter Fireman78
- Start date
I'll assume your 10' trailer is the normal low rail tilt bed 10' long 6' wide with wood plank trailer. It would have a triangulated front tongue since it probably rated to carry 3500#s. Your tow rig is also more than capable to pull any significant amount of weight of your trailer as well as handle the tongue weight as well.
I would suggest you look into modifying your current trailer. Remove the tongue and add a subframe/box that extends the tongue forward. The subframe/box would basically be a box trailer/RTT similar setup. To add, if you make the box/RTT secure in a fashion of being latched on or off, you could have a flat platform in front of your Rhino.
The box/RTT would of course be side-to-side of the typical front-to-back setup. Since the trailer probably has the tires/well outside of the trailer deck, you can add storage side rails boxes to that to maximumize your tongue box/RTT width. You can also make those removable as well to help maintain the trailer for multi-tasks for whatever purpose.
With the box/RTT on the front, you actually have a deck where you can place a pop-awning on to enjoy the sunsets, having outdoor cooking, etc. With the trailer unattached to the tow vehicle, to add stability, you can have the tongue on a wheel stand and put stabilizers just before the trailer tires. With the weight of the box/RTT, I don't think with you on the end of the trailer bed would make it stand on end. (Its a leverage arm design depending on the distance between the axle (tires), the tongue stand, COG, and the leverage from the axle to your weight.)
Or you could look at one of those multi-use pop-up campers where the ATV platform is on the back.
I would suggest you look into modifying your current trailer. Remove the tongue and add a subframe/box that extends the tongue forward. The subframe/box would basically be a box trailer/RTT similar setup. To add, if you make the box/RTT secure in a fashion of being latched on or off, you could have a flat platform in front of your Rhino.
The box/RTT would of course be side-to-side of the typical front-to-back setup. Since the trailer probably has the tires/well outside of the trailer deck, you can add storage side rails boxes to that to maximumize your tongue box/RTT width. You can also make those removable as well to help maintain the trailer for multi-tasks for whatever purpose.
With the box/RTT on the front, you actually have a deck where you can place a pop-awning on to enjoy the sunsets, having outdoor cooking, etc. With the trailer unattached to the tow vehicle, to add stability, you can have the tongue on a wheel stand and put stabilizers just before the trailer tires. With the weight of the box/RTT, I don't think with you on the end of the trailer bed would make it stand on end. (Its a leverage arm design depending on the distance between the axle (tires), the tongue stand, COG, and the leverage from the axle to your weight.)
Or you could look at one of those multi-use pop-up campers where the ATV platform is on the back.
indiedog
Adventurer
Do you have to have the rhino? If you could go to an atv with no roll cage then your options open up a fair bit.
The other thing you could do is enclose the trailer to carry the rhino and when you get to where you are going remove the rhino and you have a "box" that you could sleep in!! With a bit of thought you could make that work pretty well. I'm not sure how long the rhino is but there must be a little bit of space available on your 10ft trailer. You could mount a kitchen box and storage at the front and have a foldable mattress that stores against this. You could either make the side walls solid or canvas so you could open it up when desired.
Could be pretty comfy and a multi-purpose use of the trailer space depending on if you are in travelling mode or camping mode.
The other thing you could do is enclose the trailer to carry the rhino and when you get to where you are going remove the rhino and you have a "box" that you could sleep in!! With a bit of thought you could make that work pretty well. I'm not sure how long the rhino is but there must be a little bit of space available on your 10ft trailer. You could mount a kitchen box and storage at the front and have a foldable mattress that stores against this. You could either make the side walls solid or canvas so you could open it up when desired.
Could be pretty comfy and a multi-purpose use of the trailer space depending on if you are in travelling mode or camping mode.
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hillbillyjake
Explorer
put the rino in the bed and all your work supplies under your rtt on your current trailer.
yse i know what your thinking. i dont know the diminsions between super duty beds and dodge beds but htis is how my buddy got his home. i think the bed dimensions would be close. just a thought.
yse i know what your thinking. i dont know the diminsions between super duty beds and dodge beds but htis is how my buddy got his home. i think the bed dimensions would be close. just a thought.
I think you should look at getting a pop-up trailer, take the axle off, and fit it with camper jacks on all four corners.
Then get a trailer long enough to park both the rhino and the pop-up on it.
Ending up with a rig kind of like the Colman Evolution shown earlier, but using the camper jacks you could de-mount the camper and leave it as your 'base camp.'
Then you could use the trailer to tow the rhino, sprayer, etc. from the base camp to the work site.
I don't know about the fire roads or trails you are taking this rig on, but I bet a longer trailer with the rhino and camper in-line (and low) would be a better option than trying to stack (higher) them on a shorter trailer.
Do you get up into the northern mountains, where you have to worry about snow and cold weather? If yes, you might look into using something hard-sided like the A-Liner or Chalet (assuming you're solo on these trips):
I knew a bow hunter back in Colorado that loved his Chalet trailer.
ADDITED: you mentioned leaving the base camp set up while you're off at the job site. That's another reason I would look at using a hard-sided camper. Takes more than just a pocket knife to break in...
Or, depending on the roads you're going on, forget the pop-up and get a small fiberglas trailer like a Burro or Casita, and modify it as I described above...
Then get a trailer long enough to park both the rhino and the pop-up on it.
Ending up with a rig kind of like the Colman Evolution shown earlier, but using the camper jacks you could de-mount the camper and leave it as your 'base camp.'
Then you could use the trailer to tow the rhino, sprayer, etc. from the base camp to the work site.
I don't know about the fire roads or trails you are taking this rig on, but I bet a longer trailer with the rhino and camper in-line (and low) would be a better option than trying to stack (higher) them on a shorter trailer.
Do you get up into the northern mountains, where you have to worry about snow and cold weather? If yes, you might look into using something hard-sided like the A-Liner or Chalet (assuming you're solo on these trips):
I knew a bow hunter back in Colorado that loved his Chalet trailer.
ADDITED: you mentioned leaving the base camp set up while you're off at the job site. That's another reason I would look at using a hard-sided camper. Takes more than just a pocket knife to break in...
Or, depending on the roads you're going on, forget the pop-up and get a small fiberglas trailer like a Burro or Casita, and modify it as I described above...
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Another thought, after re-reading your initial post.
My above post addresses your 'start over' option, but working with what you have:
I think your 'stilts' idea could be implemented using camper jacks to lift the RTT/stilts for loading and unloading.
Since you mentioned cargo boxes under the RTT on the trailer, I assume your 10' trailer is long enough to hold the rhino and RTT in line? Or would you have to elevate one above the other?
Since you are currently using the 10' trailer, I assume that you use the Rhino for the 'rough stuff,' and keep the truck and trailer on decent trails? Or would you want to go brush-busting with the entire rig?
My above post addresses your 'start over' option, but working with what you have:
I think your 'stilts' idea could be implemented using camper jacks to lift the RTT/stilts for loading and unloading.
Since you mentioned cargo boxes under the RTT on the trailer, I assume your 10' trailer is long enough to hold the rhino and RTT in line? Or would you have to elevate one above the other?
Since you are currently using the 10' trailer, I assume that you use the Rhino for the 'rough stuff,' and keep the truck and trailer on decent trails? Or would you want to go brush-busting with the entire rig?
elmo_4_vt
Explorer
How long would the box of Horizon and the full length of the Rhino be? Your truck would pull a 16-18', dual-axle, flatbed trailer pretty easy, and probably wouldn't feel it much more than your current trailer. You could use the Rhino to tow the camper trailer and put both up on the larger trailer (maybe putting the tongue of the trailer under the rhino to save space). Pull off the camper, unhook, and drive the Rhino right back on the larger trailer to take to a job site.
I've done something like this once when helping a friend move. Put my smaller trailer on my larger hooked to my riding mower. The smaller had all the other lawn gear. When we got to his old place, he pulled the smaller trailer with all the lawn gear, and I pulled the larger with boxes and furniture. He was moving from an apartment and his new house hadn't had the grass cut in a couple of months. Worked pretty well for me.
The larger dual axle trailer can come in all sorts of weight ratings and configurations so you can get one that works for what you need.
This would at least give you the greatest amount of flexibility.
Don
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I've done something like this once when helping a friend move. Put my smaller trailer on my larger hooked to my riding mower. The smaller had all the other lawn gear. When we got to his old place, he pulled the smaller trailer with all the lawn gear, and I pulled the larger with boxes and furniture. He was moving from an apartment and his new house hadn't had the grass cut in a couple of months. Worked pretty well for me.
The larger dual axle trailer can come in all sorts of weight ratings and configurations so you can get one that works for what you need.
This would at least give you the greatest amount of flexibility.
Don
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Fireman78
Expedition Leader
All good ideas, I think this is the path I am going to head down.. (anybody know off hand the length of the Horizon?)
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elmo_4_vt
Explorer
I'm Martyn would be able to answer the question more accurately, but the box is probably just over 6', since a lot of the bigger tents stick off of the front. The water and storage boxes probably take up another 12-18" I'd guess, so probably 7.5' to the straight part of the tongue. Also remember that the back of the AT trailer could probably stick over the tongue of the flat bed trailer at least 18" and not interfere with anything.
I was thinking about ways to secure the AT trailer the top of the flatbed, and you could probably bolt a hitch receiver right to the deck that would allow you to securely attach the tongue of the trailer to the bed.... Might make things a little easier.
Don
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I was thinking about ways to secure the AT trailer the top of the flatbed, and you could probably bolt a hitch receiver right to the deck that would allow you to securely attach the tongue of the trailer to the bed.... Might make things a little easier.
Don
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indiedog
Adventurer
Might be a bit late but check out the following trailer build. The guy is carrying bikes but the concept is similar.
http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?topic=3646.0
http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?topic=3646.0